Clarification on sleeves vs PR44

MericaMade

Active Member
So, after reading up on sleeves, gussets, and rear trust I have a few questions for my own clarification. I am getting ready to re-gear to 5:13s and was going to buy the Evo axle sleeves and c-gussets with the rear truss over black Friday. I have read so many mixed reviews all over that I really don’t know what to believe with the sleeves and c gussets?

I started adding up what I am going to have into a stock Rubi 44 vs. what the PR44 offers. I would rather pay to re-gear once and be done. For those that have gone this route would it be better to sell my current Dana 44 complete with E-Locker, 4.10's, and axles or take the axles and locker out of the stock 44 and move them into the PR44? What does a complete stock D44 even sell for? What E-locker would you guys suggest for the PR44 if I don't transfer the stock over?

Now, whatever direction I go with above can I re-gear the rear later, meaning install the PR44 and then drive the jeep down to the gear shop and have them put 5:13 in a few days later and never put the jeep in 4-wheel drive? I heard the rear Dana 44 is stronger than the front and a truss is all you need, is this true?

Thanks in advance.
 
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QuicksilverJK

Caught the Bug
PR44 is definitely the way to go. Much stronger than the stock Rubi 44. If you used your locker and shafts you could save yourself close to $2k. Probably wouldn't get half that selling it complete.
If you just re gear your current axle skip the sleeves and just do C gussets.
Also no need to truss the rear. It is plenty strong as is.


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fiend

Caught the Bug
If you plan to go with the PR44 and swap your rubicon internals, make sure you get the right PR44. The one compatible with the rubicon carrier/locker is different from the nonrubicon one.

Yes you can drive with two different gear ratios front and rear. I did it for about a year, until I had the time and workspace to do my front gears. Just don’t put the TC in four wheel drive.


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jesse3638

Hooked
If you plan to go with the PR44 and swap your rubicon internals, make sure you get the right PR44. The one compatible with the rubicon carrier/locker is different from the nonrubicon one.

Yes you can drive with two different gear ratios front and rear. I did it for about a year, until I had the time and workspace to do my front gears. Just don’t put the TC in four wheel drive.


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You had the drive shafts in with two different ratios? I knew you could run two different ratios with the front shaft removed. Obviously not something you want to do and have functioning 4wd.

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WJCO

Meme King
If I were in your shoes, and budget allows, I would just get the ProRock. I wished I had done that from the get go. I spent money regearing. Then I did the ProRock later. If you're even thinking about it, you'll probably do it at some point up the road anyways.

If you get the Rubicon version, you can swap your current internals. If not you can get a different type of locker.

Lots of good info here: https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemblies/prorock-44-axle.html

IMG_20181112_185334_973.jpg
 

fiend

Caught the Bug
I went with the PR44 and swapped my rubicon locker and other parts over. It is way beefier than a stock 44, even one with gussets etc. Nice to have peace of mind running 37s.


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MericaMade

Active Member
If you plan to go with the PR44 and swap your rubicon internals, make sure you get the right PR44. The one compatible with the rubicon carrier/locker is different from the nonrubicon one.

Yes you can drive with two different gear ratios front and rear. I did it for about a year, until I had the time and workspace to do my front gears. Just don’t put the TC in four wheel drive.

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Thank you for pointing out the different PR44s.

If I were in your shoes, and budget allows, I would just get the ProRock. I wished I had done that from the get go. I spent money regearing. Then I did the ProRock later. If you're even thinking about it, you'll probably do it at some point up the road anyways.

If you get the Rubicon version, you can swap your current internals. If not you can get a different type of locker.

Lots of good info here: https://www.dynatrac.com/axle-assemblies/prorock-44-axle.html

View attachment 314426

Thank you for the link and good to know I can save move by swapping over parts.

I went with the PR44 and swapped my rubicon locker and other parts over. It is way beefier than a stock 44, even one with gussets etc. Nice to have peace of mind running 37s.


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So, I assume I would just pull off the stock axle and bring it into the person who is doing the new gears and have them remove the stock e locker and install it and the new gears into the PR44? or is removing the stock locker a simple task and something I could do and just bring it in the the installer myself?
 

fiend

Caught the Bug
So, I assume I would just pull off the stock axle and bring it into the person who is doing the new gears and have them remove the stock e locker and install it and the new gears into the PR44? or is removing the stock locker a simple task and something I could do and just bring it in the the installer myself?




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You’re going to reuse the carrier/locker, the axle shafts, the knuckles, brakes, unit bearings, etc. So you can take all this stuff off and bring the parts in, or bring in the whole axle, or the whole Jeep.
 
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MericaMade

Active Member
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You’re going to reuse the carrier/locker, the axle shafts, the knuckles, brakes, unit bearings, etc. So you can take all this stuff off and bring the parts in, or bring in the whole axle, or the whole Jeep.

Awesome information. I have never messed with gearing but not afraid to pull apart the old stock components and bring the parts to the installer and save him and me both time and money. Are there any special tools I need to pull the carrier/locker and unit bearings out?
 

fiend

Caught the Bug
Awesome information. I have never messed with gearing but not afraid to pull apart the old stock components and bring the parts to the installer and save him and me both time and money. Are there any special tools I need to pull the carrier/locker and unit bearings out?

You’ll need a large socket to get the axle nuts off. I can’t remember the size. 32 or 35 mm maybe. You’ll need a 12 point socket to get the unit bearing off. It’s 12 or 13 mm, can’t remember which. Otherwise basic tools as I recall.


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Speedy_RCW

Hooked
You’ll need a large socket to get the axle nuts off. I can’t remember the size. 32 or 35 mm maybe. You’ll need a 12 point socket to get the unit bearing off. It’s 12 or 13 mm, can’t remember which. Otherwise basic tools as I recall.


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36mm for axle nut but I’ve heard some people got a 35 to fit. 12 point 13mm for unit bearings.


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MericaMade

Active Member
You’ll need a large socket to get the axle nuts off. I can’t remember the size. 32 or 35 mm maybe. You’ll need a 12 point socket to get the unit bearing off. It’s 12 or 13 mm, can’t remember which. Otherwise basic tools as I recall.


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36mm for axle nut but I’ve heard some people got a 35 to fit. 12 point 13mm for unit bearings.


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Thank you both! This is the route I am gonna take. I am done doing things twice and spending more in the long run. I would rather recoup some money back selling my Stock D44 housing and gears then getting nothing out of it.
 

TonyT

Caught the Bug
I've been in your place. Sounds like you're on the right track.

In early 2010 when I did my lift wheels and tires (37",) axles weren't as affordable as they are now and I did the gussets and sleeves. The passenger tube split after about 5 years rendering the front axle useless and I bought the PR44. Then, a year later my Rear Ring and pinion broke and grenaded that housing from inside.

After almost 10 years with this Jeep, I decided to go big and get the XD60/D80 package (now on 40" tires) and It's like the honeymoon phase all over again. :yup:
 

MericaMade

Active Member
Thanks, gonna wait to see what sales pop up on black friday and will just ask for forgiveness rather than permission from the wife LOL.
 

BigBad408

New member
I am in the process of doing this right now, my PR44 arrived yesterday and is at a local shop having the stock e-locker swapped over after I pulled the internals from my bent stock rubi44. 100% agree with the others that PR44 is the way to go. I ordered mine directly from dynatrac, Eric was very helpful in making sure mine was configured for exactly what I needed. They have a few options in the build.
 

MericaMade

Active Member
I am in the process of doing this right now, my PR44 arrived yesterday and is at a local shop having the stock e-locker swapped over after I pulled the internals from my bent stock rubi44. 100% agree with the others that PR44 is the way to go. I ordered mine directly from dynatrac, Eric was very helpful in making sure mine was configured for exactly what I needed. They have a few options in the build.

Yeah, I am pondering how to get this all done in one shot. Could I put the PR44 on with no internals and drive it to the shop? This way I would just bring in the whole stock front axle and have everything swapped over with new gears and get the rear done at the same time?

I was also thinking about putting the jeep on jacks and just take all 3 axles down and having it done that way as well.
 
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