Suspension Help

SLO

SLO

Member
I have a 2013 JKU that I bought used in 2015 with a 3.5" Game Changer kit and 35's. Since then, I have upgraded just about everything. I am picking it up next week from Motech after doing a LS L94, D60's and 40" STT Pro's. The only thing I haven't really touched since I bought it is the suspension. I know Metalcloak isn't a favorite on here and I understand why but it has worked well for me up until this point. However, I know the game is changing (sorry for the stupid pun) now that I am running a lot more unsprung weight and more power/torque. I also know myself and I will push the Jeep harder now as it is no longer a daily driver.

So, with all that, I want to start looking at suspension options. I have read a lot of threads on here and just got done reading about 20 pages of a thread that started with a question about a 2.5" Game Changer kit and went into a lot of back and forth on EVO's Enforcer and Double Down kits. I have a good general idea of what I want, just don't know where to start.

First, do I stick with short/mid-arm or just go to a log-arm kit now that I am running 40's?

Second, do I just start with the bolt-on coilovers front and rear and see how that goes before changing out control arms and geometry?

Or, should I run it with the setup I have and see how it goes?
 
jesse3638

jesse3638

Hooked
I'd agree run it how it is and see how it goes. I'd build towards the future. Bolt on coil overs seem like a waste if you want to go to EVO DTD. A good upgrade when you're ready would be to do long arms and maybe swap in plush rides while you save for DTD. Just a thought. It's easier for me because it's your money not mine...haha.

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TrainWreck618

TrainWreck618

Caught the Bug
At this point just run what you have and see what you think. I would definitely go the long arm route at some point though. I run the bolt on kit and really like it, but I also don’t drive fast off-road. If your plan is to go fast then start saving for the DTD.


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wjtstudios

wjtstudios

Hooked
It’s definitely worth doing the LA kit. But, if you are planning on the DTD, that’s a different EVO LA kit that is made for the DTD. Best to do it all at once.

If your just planning on the BO coils, then you could go ahead and install the LA kit anytime.



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QuicksilverJK

QuicksilverJK

Caught the Bug
If you have the money now and want to upgrade that is one thing. Like others have said if you want to drive it fast then the long arms would be beneficial. I would personally drive it as is while saving for the ultimate kit down the road, whatever your ultimate kit might be.


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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
I agree with others to just run what you have now. Also, if you are happy with the way it rides right now, no reason for the long arm right now.
 
jesse3638

jesse3638

Hooked
wjtstudios said:
It’s definitely worth doing the LA kit. But, if you are planning on the DTD, that’s a different EVO LA kit that is made for the DTD. Best to do it all at once.

If your just planning on the BO coils, then you could go ahead and install the LA kit anytime.



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Click to expand...
I know there are the high clearance arms which I thought had to be run with DTD but thought the standard LA kit could be run with it as well.

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SLO

SLO

Member
Thanks guys! I appreciate the feedback. I was thinking of going the LA route simply to be able to get more lift and ultimately, more travel with 40’s. I’m guessing there are other benefits as well, just not fully understanding the benefits of long arms other than the obvious of changing the geometry.

I don’t know that I need the DTD kit for what I’m doing. If I had it, would I do high speed runs on fire lanes? Probably. But, most of what I’m doing is lower speed trails and crawling. My ultimate goal is max travel/flex.


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wjtstudios

wjtstudios

Hooked
SLO said:
Thanks guys! I appreciate the feedback. I was thinking of going the LA route simply to be able to get more lift and ultimately, more travel with 40’s. I’m guessing there are other benefits as well, just not fully understanding the benefits of long arms other than the obvious of changing the geometry.

I don’t know that I need the DTD kit for what I’m doing. If I had it, would I do high speed runs on fire lanes? Probably. But, most of what I’m doing is lower speed trails and crawling. My ultimate goal is max travel/flex.


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Click to expand...

The LA kit will NOT give you more lift, or travel. What it will give you is much more stability at speed on the fire roads or highway. On the fire/dirt roads it will hold much straighter going thru wash board or a series of pot holes. It made a huge difference for me. I paired it with a set up 4” plush rides and king 2.5s and you’ve got a good foundation.
 
SLO

SLO

Member
wjtstudios said:
The LA kit will NOT give you more lift, or travel. What it will give you is much more stability at speed on the fire roads or highway. On the fire/dirt roads it will hold much straighter going thru wash board or a series of pot holes. It made a huge difference for me. I paired it with a set up 4” plush rides and king 2.5s and you’ve got a good foundation.
Click to expand...

Understood. Well, I think...my understanding is that long arms correct geometry so that you can set the coilovers at a higher setting (more lift) and still have proper handling characteristics. And the reason for increasing lift is for more travel with larger tires. Is this not correct?


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wjtstudios

wjtstudios

Hooked
SLO said:
Understood. Well, I think...my understanding is that long arms correct geometry so that you can set the coilovers at a higher setting (more lift) and still have proper handling characteristics. And the reason for increasing lift is for more travel with larger tires. Is this not correct?


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Click to expand...

Yes, for sure. It flattens out the Control arms so you can add more lift with control and maintaining correct geometry. I was referring to the Control arms adding lift or flex themselves which they do not.


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SLO

SLO

Member
wjtstudios said:
Yes, for sure. It flattens out the Control arms so you can add more lift with control and maintaining correct geometry. I was referring to the Control arms adding lift or flex themselves which they do not.


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Click to expand...

Ok, glad I’m not completely off track. So, my concern with my current 3.5” lift kit is that with the weight of a LS, 40” spare, steel bumpers and fenders, etc that it won’t actually be a 3.5” lift and I’m going to be sitting low, closer to the bump stops and rubbing more. Up-travel will suck but I understand that droop/down-travel doesn’t change.
 
fiend

fiend

Caught the Bug
SLO said:
Ok, glad I’m not completely off track. So, my concern with my current 3.5” lift kit is that with the weight of a LS, 40” spare, steel bumpers and fenders, etc that it won’t actually be a 3.5” lift and I’m going to be sitting low, closer to the bump stops and rubbing more. Up-travel will suck but I understand that droop/down-travel doesn’t change.
Click to expand...

Long arms won’t address any of those issues. All they do is level out the control arms, which results in a smoother ride at higher speeds. They don’t do anything for lift height, articulation, droop, or up travel.


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A

Ajkaz

New member
Having run both the plush rides and the MC coils, the MC's offered a better ride paired with inexpensive tuned shocks. They also had a longer free length, which paired with the 6 pack shocks offered more travel than any bolt on coilover kit. The 6 packs tend to require a little more attention than most other shocks/CO's.

I'm not biased towards any particular manufacturer and no longer run any MC parts, but from what your describing your needs as, you may already be closer to the optimal setup than you think.

With 3.5" springs, a decent amount of weight and 40's I'd be looking at maximizing up travel with high clearance fenders.
Make sure your shock lengths and bump stops are properly measured to get all the travel you can out of your existing setup.

Just adding more lift height doesn't necessarily translate to more travel.
 
SLO

SLO

Member
Ajkaz said:
Having run both the plush rides and the MC coils, the MC's offered a better ride paired with inexpensive tuned shocks. They also had a longer free length, which paired with the 6 pack shocks offered more travel than any bolt on coilover kit. The 6 packs tend to require a little more attention than most other shocks/CO's.

I'm not biased towards any particular manufacturer and no longer run any MC parts, but from what your describing your needs as, you may already be closer to the optimal setup than you think.

With 3.5" springs, a decent amount of weight and 40's I'd be looking at maximizing up travel with high clearance fenders.
Make sure your shock lengths and bump stops are properly measured to get all the travel you can out of your existing setup.

Just adding more lift height doesn't necessarily translate to more travel.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Really helpful. I currently have MC Overland fenders but I’m going to swap them out for the Overline fenders (additional 2” of up-travel) and compare how it flexes and how much bump stop I need for each.

Is there an easy way to cycle the front suspension to test for rubbing other than driving up a rock? For the rear, I’ll remove the springs and cycle it with a floor jack but I’m guessing the front has to be done while on the trail?
 
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