Warn 8274 Rebuild

MSJKU11

Caught the Bug
So I recently acquired a Jeep OE Warn 8274 from a 78 CJ. I made this thread to document my process of restoring it in case anyone was doing the same or interested in reading. My plan is to rebuild the brake, replace the seals and whatever components that need to be replaced. I also plan on modifying my front bumper on my JK to mount it on the front. I understand it's probably not the most popular idea but it's something I've been wanting to do.

First step is going to be the breakdown of the winch to prepare it for media blasting and paint and repair any broken/worn out components.

I first removed the cable by removing the end cap and the clamp holding the line. I plan on moving to synthetic line and the cable had several frayed sections I decided to throw this out.
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Remove the control box by removing the leads and the clamps holding it against the motor.
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To remove the motor you have to remove the two long bolts on the end and it should slide out through the armature bearing.
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Remove the brake pawl. Remove the top and pull out the spring and keep. Mine was missing a zerg fitting so I'll have to replace it.
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Remove the clutch by unbolting the 4 bolts around it and it should pull out with the key attached or it may fall to the bottom which is okay. You may have to use some blaster but you'll have to unscrew the handle and slide the clutch out of the mounting hole. There will be a spring and small bearing you'll need to remove and clean and keep to the side. No replacements available so if you lose it you'll have to buy a whole new clutch.
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Remove the two halves of the casings by remove the surrounding 3 bolts. You might need to use some leverage to pull them apart due to the sealant. I just used a long screwdriver.
20181208_134344.jpg 20181208_140042.jpg

Since my armature bearing was pretty rusted I decided to remove it and replace with a new one. Simply hammer it out from the inside. There is a lip so you wont be able to hammer it from the outside.
20181208_150742.jpg

To tackle the brake and depending on the rust it's probably the hardest and longest part. You'll want to blast it first and then take off the c clamp.
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I was unable to remove it by hand so I used a metal clamp to hold it in place and hammer it out. You can also use a puller but I didn't have one at the time. Be careful when taking the brake apart because the bearing will fall all over the place, place it over a bucket to catch them to make it easier.
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Remove the brake shaft by lifting up on the retainer plate that's against the casing and push it out with a flat head screwdriver. Might take a couple thrusts to push it out.
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I forgot to take a picture but the drum will slide out and you just need to remove the nylon and rubber seals from the drum. Hammer out the nylon seal where the drum is inserted into the casing.

Now it's time to clean up everything, media blast it, and paint it.
 

pop2tu

Active Member
So I recently acquired a Jeep OE Warn 8274 from a 78 CJ. I made this thread to document my process of restoring it in case anyone was doing the same or interested in reading. My plan is to rebuild the brake, replace the seals and whatever components that need to be replaced. I also plan on modifying my front bumper on my JK to mount it on the front. I understand it's probably not the most popular idea but it's something I've been wanting to do.

First step is going to be the breakdown of the winch to prepare it for media blasting and paint and repair any broken/worn out components.

I first removed the cable by removing the end cap and the clamp holding the line. I plan on moving to synthetic line and the cable had several frayed sections I decided to throw this out.
View attachment 317342

Remove the control box by removing the leads and the clamps holding it against the motor.
View attachment 317343
View attachment 317344

To remove the motor you have to remove the two long bolts on the end and it should slide out through the armature bearing.
View attachment 317345 View attachment 317346

Remove the brake pawl. Remove the top and pull out the spring and keep. Mine was missing a zerg fitting so I'll have to replace it.
View attachment 317347

Remove the clutch by unbolting the 4 bolts around it and it should pull out with the key attached or it may fall to the bottom which is okay. You may have to use some blaster but you'll have to unscrew the handle and slide the clutch out of the mounting hole. There will be a spring and small bearing you'll need to remove and clean and keep to the side. No replacements available so if you lose it you'll have to buy a whole new clutch.
View attachment 317351 View attachment 317350 View attachment 317353

Remove the two halves of the casings by remove the surrounding 3 bolts. You might need to use some leverage to pull them apart due to the sealant. I just used a long screwdriver.
View attachment 317348 View attachment 317354

Since my armature bearing was pretty rusted I decided to remove it and replace with a new one. Simply hammer it out from the inside. There is a lip so you wont be able to hammer it from the outside.
View attachment 317360

To tackle the brake and depending on the rust it's probably the hardest and longest part. You'll want to blast it first and then take off the c clamp.
View attachment 317355

I was unable to remove it by hand so I used a metal clamp to hold it in place and hammer it out. You can also use a puller but I didn't have one at the time. Be careful when taking the brake apart because the bearing will fall all over the place, place it over a bucket to catch them to make it easier.
View attachment 317356
View attachment 317357

Remove the brake shaft by lifting up on the retainer plate that's against the casing and push it out with a flat head screwdriver. Might take a couple thrusts to push it out.
View attachment 317358 View attachment 317359

I forgot to take a picture but the drum will slide out and you just need to remove the nylon and rubber seals from the drum. Hammer out the nylon seal where the drum is inserted into the casing.

Now it's time to clean up everything, media blast it, and paint it.

Can’t wait to see it finished


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MSJKU11

Caught the Bug
Lube up the base of the drum and nylon seal. Slip on the seal and seat to on the base.
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Lube up the o ring and seat it on top of the nylon seal.
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Tap in the nylon bushing to where it seats flush to the inside of the casing. I marked where the previous one was with a knife. Should be at a depth of . 190
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Lube up the bushing and slide the drum in.
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Wiggle the main gear until it locks in place.
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Place the retaining plate between the main gear and the casing
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Last edited:

MSJKU11

Caught the Bug
Brake rebuild

Place the new o ring on the shaft after lubing up both
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Slide on the cam
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Then the bushing
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Then the seal
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Then the cardboard washer
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First brake disc is placed and locked in place
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Place friction material between the plate and ratchet
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Add the spring and place the hub on it

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Place the bearings in and align them to where they touch the ratchet. The trick here is to get the brake as straight as possible. Any lean and the bearing will float everywhere.
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Place the top disc and gently push down by hand, after putting the second fraction material between the ratchet and brake disc. When you have it, might take a couple try tries, clamp it down.
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Insert the two locks
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Last edited:

MSJKU11

Caught the Bug
Be sure to lube it up before adding the clip
Place the c clip back on and release the clamp
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MSJKU11

Caught the Bug
Put some oil in the bearing where the brake shaft will be inserted. Just put some oil on your finger and swirl it around the inside of the bearing.
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Slide the brake shaft in going through the middle gear. Tap the brake it until the seal is seated and remove the cardboard spacer.
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Install the brake pawl. With the top cap off, insert the spring, twist it clockwise and rest it like you see in the picture. Add the cap and bolt it in place.
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Add your oil, people use gear oil or warn recommends 6 oz of 30w non detergent.
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Add your sealant and place the top casing onto the bottom and bolt it together. 20181220_214946.jpg

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Last edited:

MSJKU11

Caught the Bug
If your armature bearing was shot, tap in the new one until it's seated.
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Slide in the motor, lube first. I opted to use sealant on both ends of the motor.
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Bolt the motor in with the two long bolts
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For the clutch, place the spring in the hole and place the bearing on top. Lube up the clutch shaft and insert in. You'll have to use a screwdriver to push the bearing and spring downward while pushing in the shaft.
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Slide the clutch onto the key and slide the key onto the armature.

Add sealant to the clutch. Bolt the clutch in and twist on the knob

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MSJKU11

Caught the Bug
I used this diagram for my wiring. I went with the superchips contractor instead of the factory solenoids. Screenshot_20181220-110347_YouTube.jpg

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MSJKU11

Caught the Bug
Here it is mounted. Just have to add my line which I will do later. 20181225_155549.jpg 20181225_155543.jpg 20181226_095302.jpg 20181226_095254.jpg

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MSJKU11

Caught the Bug
Very nice writeup! :thumb:
These are badass winches. I'd love to pick one of these up someday.
Thanks. It was fun tearing it apart and putting it back together. I love the history behind this winch and can't wait to use it. So many people rave about them.

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jesse3638

Hooked
Awesome job and great write up. Sure it may not be as sleek as some of the new Warns but I bet this thing won't let you down. It came out awesome. Aside from the clutch parts were replacement parts still readily available?

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MSJKU11

Caught the Bug
Awesome job and great write up. Sure it may not be as sleek as some of the new Warns but I bet this thing won't let you down. It came out awesome. Aside from the clutch parts were replacement parts still readily available?

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Thanks. Yea parts are easy to come by. Since warn still sells that particular winch they still have all the parts for sale, from the mounting bolts to the motor. Gigglepin is a company in the UK that sells their own upgraded versions for people who are in competitions.

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jeeeep

Hooked
That's a great thing about Warn, parts always seem to be available for even their oldest models :thumb:
 

MSJKU11

Caught the Bug
I missed this when you first posted it up, well done. That’s going to be a huge help when I begin the process of tearing mine down and rebuilding it. Thank you.


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No problem. Just let me know if you get stuck on anything. I probably forgot something along the way, I got impatient on taking pictures on some parts haha.

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wjtstudios

Hooked
No problem. Just let me know if you get stuck on anything. I probably forgot something along the way, I got impatient on taking pictures on some parts haha.

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I get it! You did a great job documenting it. I would have missed a ton. I’ll let you know as I get it taken down if I have any questions.

Thanks again,


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