Gussets and trusses

Eroc147

New member
14 Rubicon JKU. Just went to 37s. Have auto w 4.10s and tuner to help w shift points a little. Regearing to 4.88 next month. Already have 1310 driveshafts and all HD steering. So I’m thinking I should atleast do C gussets, and considering doing trusses as well. What are everyone’s thoughts? I don’t do any insane wheeling but I do go quite a bit, every other weekend during “wheeling season”.


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USMC Wrangler

New member
I don’t have first hand experience with trussing but most here will tell you it’s a waste of time and money. C-gussets, definitely do those. I’m sure you’ll get more responses from those that know better than I do.
 
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Ruvicon

Member
I just bought an EVO Truss & C-gusset kit a week ago as many told me to run it until it breaks. My plan was to weld the trusses in slowly over the weekend to avoid warping the housing, but am now going to upgrade to PR44 housing. PM me if you’re interested in the parts.


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zimm

Caught the Bug
My buddy trussed, sleeved, gusseted and geared his D30. On 35's in the rocks he blew the spider gears. Go figure. He now has a Pro rock 44 and replaced the gears and sold the d30 off. I would do the C's and run it till it breaks. I think the gears are weaker than the housing. Plus there's a chance of warping the housing while welding the truss.
 

Jeepfan30

Member
My buddy trussed, sleeved, gusseted and geared his D30. On 35's in the rocks he blew the spider gears. Go figure. He now has a Pro rock 44 and replaced the gears and sold the d30 off. I would do the C's and run it till it breaks. I think the gears are weaker than the housing. Plus there's a chance of warping the housing while welding the truss.

Spider gears in the open diff? What ratio did he re-gear to? I’ve been running gussetted D30 for five years with 4.56 and Detroit Truetracs, 35” Toyo MT’s...hoping they hold out until I move to a JL someday.
 

zimm

Caught the Bug
Spider gears in the open diff? What ratio did he re-gear to? I’ve been running gussetted D30 for five years with 4.56 and Detroit Truetracs, 35” Toyo MT’s...hoping they hold out until I move to a JL someday.

Open diff, 4.88. He was hammering it pretty good in Pritchett Canyon in Moab on what they call "Chewy" which broke a lot of stuff. Another guy in the group blew a 1310 driveshaft u-joint in the same spot, but he was on 40's and tons, he liked to have a "fuse". I think he had a case of 1310's in his tool kit and was pretty quick changing it out.

It's the same climb that's in my avatar.
 

jeeeep

Hooked
like everyone has stated, gussets and call it a day.

I'm running a 1310 front and 1350 rear. I wish I would've installed a 1350 front so I'd only have to carry one type of u-joint but so far no issues.
 

bouche03

Member
like everyone has stated, gussets and call it a day.

I'm running a 1310 front and 1350 rear. I wish I would've installed a 1350 front so I'd only have to carry one type of u-joint but so far no issues.

Are your axle u joints also 1350?
 

Eroc147

New member
Thanks everyone. That’s kind of what I was thinking. As far as me running 1310s vs 1350s I was going by weakest link logic that I have read on here. Would rather the driveshaft be the weakest link and break vs gears or axle shafts. Maybe that’s not a correct thought process after all. Let me know.


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TheGrendel

Active Member
Thanks everyone. That’s kind of what I was thinking. As far as me running 1310s vs 1350s I was going by weakest link logic that I have read on here. Would rather the driveshaft be the weakest link and break vs gears or axle shafts. Maybe that’s not a correct thought process after all. Let me know.


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i have a 1310 in my front only because i got a great deal on a used one. rebuilt it with solid ujoints rather than the greasable ones. best part is i got to learn something new when rebuilding. if i had to do it over, i would have gone 1350.
 
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