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Thread: Making the B Pillar removable on a 4 door.

  1. #1
    Hooked maskale's Avatar
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    Making the B Pillar removable on a 4 door.

    I want to make my B pillars removable, they will be able to bolt back in, the B pillar is what your front door latches to and the rear doors hinge off.

    Things to consider. A full roll cage will be required as this mod will remove a main support for the factory cage. My Jeep has side air bags, the sensors and wiring will be removed so something will have to be done to delete that option (any insight on getting rid of the airbag light would be helpful). Corbeau XRS seats will be installed with harnesses so the seat belts are no longer required. The associated wiring with the seats and seatbelts will be deleted and any dash lights dealt with. I have power doors, I don't want any exposed wires, so the rears will be converted to non power. The interior trim will not be reinstalled.

    1st. Remove everything in the way then tape up B pillar to protect the paint. Scribe lines even with bottom of door sill. Also scribe a vertical line as a reference so after you cut it you know how it should line back up.





    On the inside build a jig so it can be bolted back in the same spot. Make the bolt holes the same size as the bolts so there is no slop.





    On the inside scribe a line even with the top of the door sill. Also scribe some random vertical lines as reference lines. Note the 4", this dimension needs to be maintained. Its 4" from the top of the seat belt bolt hole to the bottom of the T shape where the top of the seat belt was connected. It's hard to see in picture, but at the 4" mark is a T shaped cut out where seatbelt retractor was installed.







    Here you can see the T slot easier.





    Before cutting or unbolting anything be sure you have reference lines and measurements for everything. At the top inside of the B-pillar is a bolt, near that bolt drill a hole the same size of a Phillips screw driver. You will use this hole as an aliment hole, so when test fitting it back in you can make sure you bolt back in the same spot. The factory bolt holes are oversized so you cant rely on them alone.


  2. #2
    Hooked maskale's Avatar
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    Now time for cutting. Make sure you have your dimensions and reference lines scribed in the paint. I recommend you actually scribe the lines so they don't get wiped off.

    Also level the Jeep. I did this with a 4' level on top of the hood hinges and a 8' level across the top of rear tub, my hard top was removed. I leveled the jeep just releasing or adding air to the tires.

    At top of B pillar is bolt on the outside, now on the inside there is a bracket welded. You need to cut between these two spots.





    Now cut the bottom, I used a 6" cut off wheel on a grinder. NOTE: there is foam in the B pillar, it will BURN. It smokes a lot so you will know if it catches fire. Have a water hose handy and start blasting water through the cut if it catches fire. You will have some smoke, but any excessive smoke that continues is a fire. There is a pipe that runs the full height of the pillar, but its not connected to anything below the cut line. The outside skin is a single sheet metal, the inside is double so you need to cut through both, but you don't need too cut through the pipe. On the inside front corner of your cut will also be a spot weld that welds the outside skin to the two inside skins, cut/drill it out as required. Once you think you have the bottom cut out remove the top inside bolt from the B pillar. Now pull the top of pillar out and lift up, if it doesn't come out see where you still have metal connected at the bottom.










  3. #3
    Old Timer wjtstudios's Avatar
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    Can’t wait to see to see how this comes out!


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    2015 JKU Rubicon AEV JK350
    1985 Jeep CJ8 Scrambler

  4. #4
    Administrator wayoflife's Avatar
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    I think I missed the part as to why this would be a good idea to do but, it is nice of you to document what you're doing.

  5. #5
    Hooked maskale's Avatar
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    You didn't miss it.

    Clean foam out of body, reach up inside both directions about 6" and clean it out.





    Cut spot weld here towards the front.





    Also beat the corner if the inside metal down and clean out in between this gap. Use a body saw to reach down inside and cut out piece of sheet metal. Its just in there not connected to anything, it was not connected to B pillar post either. Clean out foam again.











    Clean foam out of B pillar and cut pipe off flush with the inside cut line. It needs to be cut off and then welded to the plate that will be welded to the bottom of the B pillar. There are several ways of doing this, but the path I am taking I think is easier when it comes to fitting everything together and welding the pipe to the base plate that will be added.





    Take cut off pipe and cut down it like this to remove the threaded portion. The seat belt retractor was bolted here. The thread is 7/16-20.


  6. #6
    Hooked maskale's Avatar
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    The inside sheet metal is doubled, I used a spot welder to weld them together in 8-10 places.





    One little spark and foam is on fire. Would have been a good idea to wet the area down first.




  7. #7
    Old Timer TrainWreck618's Avatar
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    I’ve seen b pillar chops to line up with half doors, but not all the way down. I really don’t understand what the point is unless your chopping it all up to go full buggy mode. Interesting project for sure, curious to see what you do.


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  8. #8
    Hooked maskale's Avatar
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    Welded in a backing plate for the lower B pillar along with the original seat belt threaded sleeve.





    Also cut the middle sheet metal piece down some more, it made it easier to get the patch piece in.





    The factory sill has a little ledge, I spent hours trying to perfect it on my patch piece. but my SwagOffroad press brake was at its limits trying to break that close together using the flat top trying to get matching angles.





    I drilled here so I could reach in and coat the inside with frame coating once its welded up.





    Since I couldn't get the ledge right I'm just putting flat plate 3/16" thick, which will be much easier in the end. The squares welded on the bottom are 3/8" thick, they will be where I drill through and then thread them so the pillar can be bolted back on.




  9. #9
    Hooked maskale's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TrainWreck618 View Post
    I’ve seen b pillar chops to line up with half doors, but not all the way down. I really don’t understand what the point is unless your chopping it all up to go full buggy mode. Interesting project for sure, curious to see what you do.


    Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
    It may end up being a train wreck. I called about 50 junk yards trying to find a scrap body they would let me cut the B pillar out so I could see how it was constructed. They wanted $300. Im just winging it here.

  10. #10
    Hooked maskale's Avatar
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    Plate welded in.






    I bent some plate to make an angle and cut to match the inside shape.









    Bottom part pretty much finished. Just have to drill and tap when I get the top piece in.







    Last edited by maskale; 01-18-2019 at 10:53 PM.

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