Evo DTD tuning

bhaner

Active Member
I am new to running coilovers and bypass shocks so excuse the questions...

I am trying to figure out what each setting does in order to tune my rig a little better.

From what I see I have the following things I can change:

- Preload on the coilover (Used to set ride height and adjust level from side to side)
- Nitrogen pressure in coilover and bypass shock
- Dual rate ring on front coilovers
- Compression screw on bypass shock
- Rebound screw on bypass shocks

I have a basic understanding on what they all do. But translating that to what I want to change is my issue.

Currently the nitrogen pressures are all set at 150 PSI. Not sure how changing the pressure here changes how the shocks react. I would think the oil would travel through the valves the same way. No?

The dual rate ring is about 3/4"-1" above the collar at ride height.

I have not changed the screws on the bypass shocks. They are set to Evo spec.


My issue right now is that everything seems really stiff on the road. I get a bounce in the rear that feels more like tire flex than anything. I can feel the back go down, then the front go up. Then the back go up and the front go down. Feels like a cross between being in a boat and riding a bull. It's not violent at all... Just annoying.

I can push down on the bumpers as hard as I can and the Jeep doesn't move much at all.

When I hit a speed bump at speed the shocks seem to handle it well. The front takes the compression well without pushing the nose up. When the bump hits the rear it also seems to take it well with just a little up travel. I don't get a bouncy feeling at all.

Thanks guys for any info you can pass on.
 

kpig

Member
Who did the build? I would start there for advice. The DTD suspension is full of tuning options that is largely dependent upon who did the build. Once you get it straight, you will love it. Best of luck.
 

bhaner

Active Member
Thanks!

Was just hoping to get a better understanding from those here who have tuned their own. I have had a few conversations with Evo during the build. Just hate bugging them with all my questions.
 

bhaner

Active Member
You could take it over to Northridge4x4, they've installed a tone of those suspensions.

It may come down to that if I can't figure it out.

I would rather learn how it works so I can support it myself. Plus then I can help others.
 

jesse3638

Hooked
I've never really messed with vehicle suspension but I have on mountain bikes. I know not exactly apples to apples..haha. I would always note where my adjustment knobs (compression, rebound, pre-load) were then turn them all the way one direction. I'd go for a ride and see of that affected things. Then I'd turn them all the way the other way and do the same and see what affect it had. I'd then go opposite directions with each and keep seeing what affects is had. I'd then begin to make adjustments and set it where I found it to offer the best ride and performance. Takes time and patience. If I messed things up I always had where I began so I could at least get it back to where I started. Just an idea but I think an approach like that could work. I'm sure it'll take quite a bit of time but then you'd know what everything on your suspension did.

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kpig

Member
On my front bypass shocks, I have the mid travel compression section at full open. The bump needs to still be firm since that is taking the place of a conventional bump stop. The rears are still softer than the fronts even set pretty stiff due to the geometry of the lever. Make sure you know what is your baseline, and only make one adjustment at a time. That way you can always revert back if you need. I’m playing with the rear hydro bump pressures at the moment. Have fun with it.
 

bhaner

Active Member
All good points. First thing I am going to do is document how everything is set.


The way my Evo long arm kit is setup I don't have hyd rear bump stops. I have a drop bracket for the track bar on the passenger side. It relocated the factory rubber bump stop. Then there is a large block on the axle on the drivers side.

At one point when I was picking out all these parts I was told I wouldn't need them by a few people. That the factory rubber stops and bypass shocks would take care of it. Truth?

Now I am starting to think it may be a good idea to figure out how to install a set.
 

PATRIOTKJM

New member
Do not adjust your nitrogen pressure, you will cavitate your shocks if you lower it too much and it does not impact ride qualiry. Most likely your spring rates are pretty close. You can open up your first compression bypass zone and start there.


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