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Thread: Prorock 44 leak(s) Need Help

  1. #21
    Caught the Bug 17xJKU's Avatar
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    I guess if the shaft was machined down and sleeve was pressed on tight, it would move. But I think the grooves came from having barely any deflection and actually connected the metal of the seal, which would wear down the sleeve. I sent pictures to RCV and they said it was most likely dirt or metal that got between the seal to do that. I did have a bunch of mud and dirt in the axle housing, but I didn't notice any metal around the seals. There was the typical shavings stuck to the magnets of the diff cover, but not excessive.

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  2. #22
    Caught the Bug 17xJKU's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 17xJKU View Post
    I guess if the shaft was machined down and sleeve was pressed on tight, it would move. But I think the grooves came from having barely any deflection and actually connected the metal of the seal, which would wear down the sleeve. I sent pictures to RCV and they said it was most likely dirt or metal that got between the seal to do that. I did have a bunch of mud and dirt in the axle housing, but I didn't notice any metal around the seals. There was the typical shavings stuck to the magnets of the diff cover, but not excessive.

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    Wouldn't move... dang typos.

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  3. #23
    Hooked Turbo21's Avatar
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    I use this product at work. And would work much better than Jb weld. Hardens like metal and can be machined. Will make the shaft like new again


    https://www.enecon.com/product-duralloy

    Bob


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #24
    Caught the Bug 17xJKU's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbo21 View Post
    I use this product at work. And would work much better than Jb weld. Hardens like metal and can be machined. Will make the shaft like new again


    https://www.enecon.com/product-duralloy

    Bob


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Dang, seems like good stuff. That might be what they used at my work on the shafts for our fans for the car ovens. I wish I would have known about it sooner, as I've already put the JB weld on. I don't think it's enough area to even hurt anything once I sand and smooth it. I guess if it wears down or cracks, I'll look into that stuff. Thanks.

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  5. #25
    Nothing but a Thing Red Knight15's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 17xJKU View Post
    I know this post is a few months old, but I recently got the 35 pline deal leak after only 1.5 years and maybe 12k miles. So.. here's what I found from research. Some people say the Dana 60 seal, Spicer 36487, but what I pulled out of mine was a National # 473517. Now, the problem I have is the seals actually wore grooved into my RCV shafts. I was told by RCV and a machine shop to not weld in the grooves and machine them down since they are heat treated shafts. Now RCV said I could machine them down until the grooves are gone, and find another seal that will work.. way too much work in my opinion, but also very pricey to replace the shafts. Okay... now the point of my reply is what I'm considering doing and seeing what everyone thinks. My prorock will not accept a Dana 60 seal due to and adapter that's pressed in to fit that smaller National seal. Not sure why some have it, some dont? The 60 seal has more rubber, more room for flex and deflection. I read on another forum that adapter can be pounded out to fit the 60 seal, but Dynatrac told me they dont recommend it and to put the same seal back in. But I see that seal obviously did not last either, however... there is enough room to fit 2 of them seals back to back if I grind and smooth a small lip on that adapter to meet up with the back stop for the seals. Would anyone recommend that? I will try to add pics to show what I'm talking about. I would think double seal would work great, but I'm no expert, just trying to find a fix for everyone.
    Which seals did you put back in? I’m fixing to replace mine


    Sent from Lookout Mtn.

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