Valve body diag help

RESURECTIONJK

RESURECTIONJK

Hooked
Looking for some insight on some trans issues.
I’m leaning towards a valve body issue but, not really sure how to test it or check it without taking it in to the stealership.

2014 JK. 5.13’s 37’s Auto trans (obviously) has just over 166k miles. I’ve been religious about services and fluid is in good condition as is its level.

Symptoms are:
I get a bit of a hesitation to shift from 2nd-3rd when climbing even a slight incline, RPM’s will nearly hit 6,000 and sometimes I’ve got to manually shift it. On occasion, when on the trail the engine will bog down enough to stall, when this happens the trans won’t go into gear after I re start the vehicle unless I go through all the gear selections. Has also happened in 2wd pulling into parking stalls but only a few times.

Jeep is properly programmed for gears and tire size.

Any insight is helpful.
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Hopefully someone here has been through this and can help you out. IMO, with newer electronic transmissions, finding a GOOD and HONEST transmission shop in your area is the way to go. A tech that works on similar models day after day can recognize common symptoms and repairs and point you in the right direction.

I went through a weird harsh shift symptom on my WJ only when climbing (2-3 circuit) and I replaced all sensors and the valve body with an updated version with no luck. I finally got it into a trustworthy trans shop and he had a scanner that could access each shift circuit electronically and change parameters and it fucking fixed it. 120 bucks. It's been fine for about a year. Hope yours is something easy like that.
 
G-mansjk

G-mansjk

Member
My buddy had a issue similar to this on his Silverado. We checked all kinds of crap from fluids to shift solenoids to solenoid supply voltage from the transmission control module and couldn't find a thing. A few weeks later his battery went dead and when he replaced it all was good as new... only thing I can figure is either the control voltage was screwed from the battery being shot, the battery was so screwed that or couldn't buffer the alternator enough so the computer could function properly or most likely (the adaptive learning on the trans had to be reset). Try pulling the battery terminals let it sit for a while 15 or so. Then drain all power in the capacitors most manufacturers have a procedure like hitting the brakes a few times, turning on headlights or tapping terminals together but it should reset any saved parameters in all computers ram.


That's right I'm a window licker, I can't spell, my grammar sucks!!!!
 
G-mansjk

G-mansjk

Member
Forgot to mention he had bought it used and just lifted it when the issues started but it still could be a similar issue. Specially if you changed anything from tires, gears, or even just bought a sports car and want to drive your old vehicle that you've been babying for years like a sports car Haha!!!
G-mansjk said:
My buddy had a issue similar to this on his Silverado. We checked all kinds of crap from fluids to shift solenoids to solenoid supply voltage from the transmission control module and couldn't find a thing. A few weeks later his battery went dead and when he replaced it all was good as new... only thing I can figure is either the control voltage was screwed from the battery being shot, the battery was so screwed that or couldn't buffer the alternator enough so the computer could function properly or most likely (the adaptive learning on the trans had to be reset). Try pulling the battery terminals let it sit for a while 15 or so. Then drain all power in the capacitors most manufacturers have a procedure like hitting the brakes a few times, turning on headlights or tapping terminals together but it should reset any saved parameters in all computers ram.


That's right I'm a window licker, I can't spell, my grammar sucks!!!!
Click to expand...

That's right I'm a window licker, I can't spell, my grammar sucks!!!!
 
CharlesC

CharlesC

Member
I’m having similar type of symptoms. Around 4000 rpm kick down, 5th-4th or 4th-3rd.
Bit of hesitation, momentary surge forward (like it gained a phantom single HP) then falls into gear smooth enough.
Mine is going in tomorrow for diagnostics🤞Took it out today with the Tech. His first thought was bad valve body and sensor?
I hope this tech has a scanner that WJCO speaks of🤞

Edit: when kick down happens and rpm approaches shifting point is when it surges forward.

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Last edited:
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
RESURECTIONJK said:
On the 4dr I’m guessing? So perhaps with gears and bigger tires and the programming required maybe that’s just it’s nature? I’m probably worrying too much about it being that my fucking motor sounds like a pissed off woodpecker
Click to expand...

I’m guessing gears, tires and weight. The stock four door doesn’t do it when I hammer on it. The two door is manual so it is what I want it to be.


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CharlesC

CharlesC

Member
Got the Jeep back today. Said there are a couple of bulletins on this issue. They decided to do a flash/update/upgrade?? And if this did not fix it, the next option is to replace the valve body. Hope this fixes it, replacement is to the tune of 1000$


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RESURECTIONJK

RESURECTIONJK

Hooked
CharlesC said:
Got the Jeep back today. Said there are a couple of bulletins on this issue. They decided to do a flash/update/upgrade?? And if this did not fix it, the next option is to replace the valve body. Hope this fixes it, replacement is to the tune of 1000$


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Crossing fingers that works out for you. I’ll see how it runs after a fresh motor gets swapped in (hopefully soon) and a programming and go from there.
 
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