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Thread: PR44 and PR60 for Jeep JK 37" tires - What Am I Missing?

  1. #1
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    PR44 and PR60 for Jeep JK 37" tires - What Am I Missing?

    Hi Guys,

    I have a 2014 2 door JK Sport Auto and about to ditch the front dana 30 and rear 44 for a Dynatrac Prorock 44 front and Prorock 60 rear axles. I have a Metalcloak 2.5" gamechanger lift and CC flat fenders and will be putting on 37" tires.

    Here is what I am thinking as far as axles:

    PR44
    -standard housing (6 degrees of separation like a stock jk axle because I only have a 2.5" lift)
    -0.5" wall thickness tubes
    -OEM trackbar mount
    -4.88 gears
    -dynatrac balljoints
    -Eaton Elocker 30 spline
    -RCV axles 30 spline
    -1310 pinion yoke (logic here is this would be the first to break and make for a much easier fix on the trail)

    PR60
    -4.88 gears
    -Eaton Elocker
    -1350 pinion yoke
    -don't know what else I can customize on the rear axle?

    What do you guys think? Does anything stand out to you that I should reconsider?

    Thanks!
    Last edited by mondricek; 07-17-2019 at 07:51 AM.

  2. #2
    Knows a Thing or Two Lojo's Avatar
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  3. #3
    Nothing but a Thing 2nd.gunman's Avatar
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    Iíd still go with the extra caster on the front axle and 1350s. 1310s are weaker than stock so not really an upgrade and guaranteed to break


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  4. #4
    Addict wjtstudios's Avatar
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    PR44 and PR60 for Jeep JK 37" tires - What Am I Missing?

    Welcome, you will get a bunch of good experienced based information here.

    For the front you are definitely going to want 1350s. The RCVs are expensive, strong, but they have a notorious popping sound that most guys who run them experience. Nothing physically wrong with them, they just snap crack and pop when turning and for what you pay for them they should be quiet. Mine have stayed quiet for a 1.5 years and 27k on them. But most have the opposite experience. Go with the ARB lockers. The engage and disengage quickly. The Eatonís tend to take more time and sometimes require moving the Jeep forward and back to engage.

    For the rear itís a tough call whether to even do a semi float rear axle or just keep repairing the existing Dana 44. You do get larger diameter axle shafts that are stronger, but you still risk bending an axle flange. Just more difficult too. But itís a lot of money to spend for a moderately better axle. The tubes are stronger and if you wheel a lot, thatís a Benefit. If you go forward with the rear SF 60 get the ARB lockers as well.

    As far as gear ratio do you drive it every day? I daily drove mine since I got it in 15. 4:88s we the best choice for that dual use. Now that itís going to more of a weekend and Jeep run use, I eventually will bump it up to 5:13s.

    Good luck.


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  5. #5
    Meme King WJCO's Avatar
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    Get the extra caster on the housing. As far as axle shafts, if you buy the axles directly through Dynatrac, you can get their chromoly shafts with ujoints for the front axle.
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  6. #6
    Nothing but a Thing Benito's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mondricek View Post
    Hi Guys,

    I have a 2014 2 door JK Sport Auto and about to ditch the front dana 30 and rear 44 for a Dynatrac Prorock 44 front and Prorock 60 rear axles. I have a Metalcloak 2.5" gamechanger lift and CC flat fenders and will be putting on 37" tires.

    Here is what I am thinking as far as axles:

    PR44
    -standard housing (6 degrees of separation like a stock jk axle because I only have a 2.5" lift)
    -0.5" wall thickness tubes
    -OEM trackbar mount
    -4.88 gears
    -dynatrac balljoints
    -Eaton Elocker 30 spline
    -RCV axles 30 spline
    -1310 pinion yoke (logic here is this would be the first to break and make for a much easier fix on the trail)

    PR60
    -4.88 gears
    -Eaton Elocker
    -1350 pinion yoke
    -don't know what else I can customize on the rear axle?

    What do you guys think? Does anything stand out to you that I should reconsider?

    Thanks!

    Get the extra caster built into the front, even at that small lift height it can help, also a raised trackbar mount that has different position available to raise it if needed in the future. Just go to a 1350 in the front, upgrade once. I would also find 35 spline axle shafts with u joints and full circle clips for the front and 35 spline rear and the appropriate locker/carrier for them. Iíve seen issues with all lockers and there is not a single one I would say is more reliable than any others. And with the 4.88 gears youíll also stay pretty strong for the 37s.

  7. #7
    Addict Ddays's Avatar
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    If I had to do it over again I wouldn't buy the SF PR60 rear - I still bend flanges regularly it seems. I'm chirping again in the right rear now. If I was to do it over I probably would go with the FF PR60 and either run adapters on the PR44 front or do a 5.5x5 hub conversion. I have no interest in going over 37's as they fit what I do perfectly, so a PR60 front end would be kind of overkill or me. I'd rather put additional monies into the suspension instead.

    And ditto on the extra caster/1350's on the PR44.

  8. #8
    Knows a Thing or Two Abntroop's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ddays View Post
    If I had to do it over again I wouldn't buy the SF PR60 rear - I still bend flanges regularly it seems. I'm chirping again in the right rear now. If I was to do it over I probably would go with the FF PR60 and either run adapters on the PR44 front or do a 5.5x5 hub conversion. I have no interest in going over 37's as they fit what I do perfectly, so a PR60 front end would be kind of overkill or me. I'd rather put additional monies into the suspension instead.

    And ditto on the extra caster/1350's on the PR44.
    I keep reading references to bent flanges, and Iím not tracking. Could someone please post a pic and explain?


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    16í JK Rubicon HR - Wampa
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  9. #9
    Knows a Thing or Two A.J.'s Avatar
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    Save yourself some $ and get the trail leader package.


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  10. #10
    Knows a Thing or Two A.J.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Abntroop View Post
    I keep reading references to bent flanges, and Iím not tracking. Could someone please post a pic and explain?


    Matthew
    16í JK Rubicon HR - Wampa
    I don't have a picture for you. Basically sideways impact like slipping off of a rock sideways can bend the outer flange on the axle. The flange is the round flat end that your brake rotor attaches to. When it bends the rotor/wheel and such wobbles and causes noises and vibrations.


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