Jk rear control arms

Leeboy03 · Jul 18, 2019

So I’ve upsized to 37’s. My current set up is a 2.5 lift with stock arms in the rear. It works fine for the 35’s that are on it now but the rear wheels are no where near center of the wheel well. I know adjustable arms are the correct way to fix it but is there any reason I can’t cut/weld a section in to temporarily get me by until I can get adjustables? And if so does anyone happen to know approximately how long the rear arms need to be? Thanks

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Braxtonsag · Jul 18, 2019

Maybe it’s just me but that sounds like a REALLY bad idea. A lot of people run 37s on stock control arms in the rear and don’t have an issue. The problem is once you lengthen the arms, you’re going to run into problems on up travel. Everyone’s wheels sit slightly forward of center unless they’re running a long arm and small lift

BaddestCross · Jul 18, 2019

Ruvicon actually did this. Maybe he'll jump in with some input.

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407

WJCO · Jul 18, 2019

Leeboy03 said:
I know adjustable arms are the correct way to fix it but is there any reason I can’t cut/weld a section in to temporarily get me by until I can get adjustables?

.........

TheGrendel · Jul 18, 2019

https://www.claytonoffroad.com/jeep_control_arms

At 2.5 inches, you probably don’t need adjustable arms. But, the rear uppers are $239 and are built well. I know. I’m running a the lowers front and back. Do it properly

Speedy_RCW · Jul 18, 2019

Leeboy03 said:
So I’ve upsized to 37’s. My current set up is a 2.5 lift with stock arms in the rear. It works fine for the 35’s that are on it now but the rear wheels are no where near center of the wheel well. I know adjustable arms are the correct way to fix it but is there any reason I can’t cut/weld a section in to temporarily get me by until I can get adjustables? And if so does anyone happen to know approximately how long the rear arms need to be? Thanks

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Honestly if you’re asking this question, you probably have no business doing it.

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Lojo · Jul 18, 2019

Leeboy03 said:
So I’ve upsized to 37’s. My current set up is a 2.5 lift with stock arms in the rear. It works fine for the 35’s that are on it now but the rear wheels are no where near center of the wheel well. I know adjustable arms are the correct way to fix it but is there any reason I can’t cut/weld a section in to temporarily get me by until I can get adjustables? And if so does anyone happen to know approximately how long the rear arms need to be? Thanks

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Definitely seems risky. Especially on something that family may ride in.

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Slimebones · Jul 18, 2019

Speedy_RCW said:
Honestly if you’re asking this question, you probably have no business doing it.

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Legit! And Legit!

Coop · Jul 18, 2019

Another reason to change the lower control arms is the strength of the stock arms. If the reason you have gone to 37s is for better off road performance, I would suggest you replace the control arms with a beefy adjustable control arm.

The bent stock control arm ruined my D44 and made getting off the trail a challenge. The new adjustable control arm has proven itself.

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TheGrendel · Jul 18, 2019

forgot to mention Core 4x4. great arms at a great price as well. spend the 200 plus dollars to do it right. no need to endanger yourself or others by hacking up a control arm.

https://www.core4x4.com/product/rear-lower-control-arms-jk/

Leeboy03 · Jul 18, 2019

So I guess I should have probably mentioned the I am a pressure vessel/ broiler pipe welder. The welds I make Dailey are all subject to x-ray,UT, dye pen, and mag testing. So risky isn’t a concern for me. My plans are to go with long arms in the near (5-6 months) future which is why I’m hesitant to spend the money on adjustable arms right now.

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TheGrendel · Jul 18, 2019

Leeboy03 said:
So I guess I should have probably mentioned the I am a pressure vessel/ broiler pipe welder. The welds I make Dailey are all subject to x-ray,UT, dye pen, and mag testing. So risky isn’t a concern for me. My plans are to go with long arms in the near (5-6 months) future which is why I’m hesitant to spend the money on adjustable arms right now.

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well from a welding stand point, it sounds like you know your stuff. but, let's say you spend $250 on a set of arms. i'd bet you could sell them for $200 easy in a couple of months.

TrailHunter · Jul 18, 2019

Or just trim your pinch seam.

Ddays · Jul 18, 2019

TrailHunter said:
Or just trim your pinch seam.

^^ This and wait on the LA set

arturonueve · Jul 18, 2019

Recently got all adjustable arms for mine after using stock with 3" lift for a couple of years. Well worth the investment IMHO. Ride quality and looks both markedly improved.

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Speedy_RCW · Jul 18, 2019

Leeboy03 said:
So I guess I should have probably mentioned the I am a pressure vessel/ broiler pipe welder. The welds I make Dailey are all subject to x-ray,UT, dye pen, and mag testing. So risky isn’t a concern for me. My plans are to go with long arms in the near (5-6 months) future which is why I’m hesitant to spend the money on adjustable arms right now.

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If that’s the case so you really need someone to tell you how to cut and extend a piece of tubing or if it will be structurally sound after doing so?

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OverlanderJK · Jul 18, 2019

Speedy_RCW said:
If that’s the case so you really need someone to tell you how to cut and extend a piece of tubing or if it will be structurally sound after doing so?

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Lol right?

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kellyk · Jul 18, 2019

This is interesting because I’ve never been told that you need the control arms on 2.5 lift.

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Leeboy03 · Jul 18, 2019

Speedy_RCW said:
If that’s the case so you really need someone to tell you how to cut and extend a piece of tubing or if it will be structurally sound after doing so?

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I guess you must have read a different post. Because nowhere did I ask how to do it or if it would be structurally sound. Are you always this useless?

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Leeboy03 · Jul 18, 2019

kellyk said:
This is interesting because I’ve never been told that you need the control arms on 2.5 lift.

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It’s not a necessity. I could cut my rubi rail, trim my pinch seam and cut the fenders. But the axel with still be forward of center and it looks a little silly

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