Codes codes codes!!!😡

Martinrd1

New member
Ok so for about a month my 2012 jku has had some issues with sputtering and losing power. I replaced all the o2 sensors and its still haviing issue and throwing a ton of codes and sputtering off and on. Dealer has tried twice to fic the issue and has drained my damn wallet dry and still no fix. These are the codes:

2245
0300
0513
0131
2586
113d

I have replaced the coil packs, spark plugs, cam shaft and crankshaft sensors, and all o2 sensors. I did use bosch sensors which i hear are crap but can they really be THAT bad?!? I ordered a new crown automotice sensor for bank 1 sensor 1. Im at a loss now and really dont wanna give the dealer anymore money and still now have it fixed.
 

Whitarmy

New member
Have you had a leak down test done? I had similar issues and it was a cracked head found in the test


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE
 

RCVRY

New member
Ok so for about a month my 2012 jku has had some issues with sputtering and losing power. I replaced all the o2 sensors and its still haviing issue and throwing a ton of codes and sputtering off and on. Dealer has tried twice to fic the issue and has drained my damn wallet dry and still no fix. These are the codes:

2245
0300
0513
0131
2586
113d

I have replaced the coil packs, spark plugs, cam shaft and crankshaft sensors, and all o2 sensors. I did use bosch sensors which i hear are crap but can they really be THAT bad?!? I ordered a new crown automotice sensor for bank 1 sensor 1. Im at a loss now and really dont wanna give the dealer anymore money and still now have it fixed.

I’d like to help, but smart as I’m not I don’t have all those codes memorized. You mind elaborating on what their (Ddays[emoji6]) for?

I could look them up but you’ve obviously done the homework.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Last edited:

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
I would start with 0513 (immobilizer code). If your key is not being read correctly the vehicle could be putting it into a limp mode and causing the random misfires. All the o2 sensor high and low voltage codes are set from this I would believe.

0300 is a random misfire code. Check all spark plug. After 100k (assuming you have more than that since you never mentioned mileage) they should be replaced.
 

RCVRY

New member
I would start with 0513 (immobilizer code). If your key is not being read correctly the vehicle could be putting it into a limp mode and causing the random misfires. All the o2 sensor high and low voltage codes are set from this I would believe.

0300 is a random misfire code. Check all spark plug. After 100k (assuming you have more than that since you never mentioned mileage) they should be replaced.

That’s like Obi-wan shit right there.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

Martinrd1

New member
Im gonna do just that. Im still gonna switch the bosch o2 sensors out for good measure. Im guessing the dealership will have to deal with the immobilizer code?
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Im gonna do just that. Im still gonna switch the bosch o2 sensors out for good measure. Im guessing the dealership will have to deal with the immobilizer code?
Could be that you need a new key cut and programmed which the dealer would have the handle. They would need to diag it more tho. There is a whole procedure in their system that they have to follow for voltage codes and such.
I’m guessing maybe a new battery in the fob? Or are they RFID?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
If it’s a basic jeep (no power locks/auto start like mine) then battery is on the key. They would be cut and rfid and programmed to the vehicle.
 

Martinrd1

New member
Im just extremely frustrated at this point, i have replaced so many parts trying to get this fixed and even the dealer is just guessing at this point. The jeep has power locks and windows and all that. Dealer recently claimed that an oil leak could be causing the shuddering and i lost all faith after that. $1300 and 2 trips later and its STILL no better than before.
 

WJCO

Meme King
I would look everywhere you can to make sure that the wiring harness isn't rubbing on something or a rodent hasn't been chewing on it. That's a lot of codes.
 
Those are all electrical.
Start basic, clean and tighten grounds.
Keep an eye on voltage, an intermittently failing alternator does weird shit.
Melted o2 wires grounding out.
Also sounds like you need to find a dealer that can diagnose issues instead of throwing parts at shit


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE
 

Martinrd1

New member
I disconnected the battery last night and reconnected it this morning to clear all the codes and start fresh. Everything ran perfectly all the way to work and no CEL. Waited a while and did the key trick and now the only code is p2245. I have a crown automotive sensor ordered and will check all wiring once i replace it. Fingers crossed
 

Noble Woodsman

New member
Clearing the codes and checking for the first one that appears was a good idea. You may want to repeat this procedure to see if you get P2245 to appear first again, which would suggest that the other codes cascade from this one.

P2245 is a low reference voltage on the upstream O2 sensor, which usually indicates a lean burn condition. I would first check for corrosion on the O2 sensor electrical connector pins and for any damaged wires/loose connections/corroded contacts on the wire harness leading from the O2 back to the ECM. Checking for continuity and low (<2 Ohm) resistance across both ends of the harness would be ideal.

The shudder and misfire you mentioned are caused by the ECM trying to compensate for the lean burn condition reading. When the ECM reads a lean burn condition from the O2 sensor, it compensates by increasing long term fuel trim, (which is a measure of how long the fuel injectors stay open each ignition cycle), so the ECM basically dumps more fuel into the engine to bring the residual O2 in the exhaust back down to normal levels. To prevent the engine from stalling, the ECM limits the maximum LTFT to about +14, and under normal operation, LTFT should never get to double digit values. If it does, the engine is burning too rich due to a false lean burn reading. Running like this gives the shuddering and misfires that you mentioned, and if left unchecked, will eventually also cause rough idle, surging (due to coke buildup), stalling (flooding engine with fuel), and momentary drops in power under acceleration (slow air/fuel adjustment to throttle position). You may also see a drop in mpg. Many OBD testers will give a readout of LTFT, and it should be measured after idling for at least 10 minutes.

I had these exact issues on a 1996 XJ after using non-OEM brand O2 sensors (including Bosch) and a non-OEM brand catalytic converter. It sent me down a rabbit hole for 2 years checking other things before I finally replaced with OEM brand cat and O2 sensors which solved the issue. In that case, the aftermarket cat had the upstream O2 port in a different location than the OEM cat, which caused the false reading. O2 sensors can not be properly tested without an oscilloscope, and even then, they must be tested at operating temperature, so I only use OEM brand sensors nowadays.
 

Edwrds

Caught the Bug
I disconnected the battery last night and reconnected it this morning to clear all the codes and start fresh. Everything ran perfectly all the way to work and no CEL. Waited a while and did the key trick and now the only code is p2245. I have a crown automotive sensor ordered and will check all wiring once i replace it. Fingers crossed

Also when you disconnect the pos/neg touch the two wires together it’s a hard reset. I had to do this to get my stuff cleared. Had one of the Jeep mechanics tell me that and it worked. Guess it gets rid of any power left in the system.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Also when you disconnect the pos/neg touch the two wires together it’s a hard reset. I had to do this to get my stuff cleared. Had one of the Jeep mechanics tell me that and it worked. Guess it gets rid of any power left in the system.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

There are capacitors in the vehicle which store power. Doing so releases it. Only do that tho after they have been disconnected for about 5-10 mins. Doing so immediately can set the air bags off. Ask me how I know lol
 

Edwrds

Caught the Bug
There are capacitors in the vehicle which store power. Doing so releases it. Only do that tho after they have been disconnected for about 5-10 mins. Doing so immediately can set the air bags off. Ask me how I know lol

Holy shit I had no idea guess I got really lucky or I must have took my time. Good to know.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

sipafz

Caught the Bug
There are capacitors in the vehicle which store power. Doing so releases it. Only do that tho after they have been disconnected for about 5-10 mins. Doing so immediately can set the air bags off. Ask me how I know lol

I did not know that. I’m glad I haven’t learned that the hard way! Sorry you did!
 
Top Bottom