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Thread: UJoint Considerations for Axle Upgrade

  1. #11
    Knows a Thing or Two Seahawkfan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JJ151 View Post
    Like you I just installed the XD60s front/rear w/37s on my 2016 JKUR and replaced my stock Rubicon axles that had 4.10 gears. I went with 1350 drive shafts, which are working fine so far. As far as gears, I too, was concerned about 5.13s on the highway and my RPMs are close to 3k at 70 on the highway. However, with the added weight I am very glad I went with 5.13s and believe I would not be happy with the performance of 4.88s.


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    That seems high..I was running almost 3k@ 75mph when I had my 35's and 5.13's now with 37's 2400 to 2500

  2. #12
    Hooked JJ151's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seahawkfan View Post
    That seems high..I was running almost 3k@ 75mph when I had my 35's and 5.13's now with 37's 2400 to 2500
    Gear ratio chart for 3.6L w/auto w/37s shows 2,708 at 70 mph. I’m a bit above that. I may need to recheck my Procal setting.

    Even manual chart shows 2,600 rpm w/5.13 and 37s though.


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  3. #13
    Addict jesse3638's Avatar
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    This is all good info. I'm going to 37's and will need a regear. I've looked at the charts and was himming and hawing between 4:88's or 5:13's. I was set on 5:13's, but was beginning to second guess this being that I have a manual. I think I'm back to going with 5:13's. I plan on installing a 1350 front when I do the regear. Now to find the time to get those tires installed..haha. Also will be a good time to address the t-case front output shaft leak I just discovered. Pretty sure I just need to put some rtv on the t-case yoke. Looks to be a slow seep that slings onto the under carriage.

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  4. #14
    Hooked Noble Woodsman's Avatar
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    This takes more power to overcome than stock tires, so the engine needs to be where it can make that amount of power easily
    This is a great point, which I had not considered. Thanks for helping me make this decision. Definitely ruling out the 4.88s based on everyone's feedback so far.

    Yes, the axle U joints are bigger, but there is the added gear reduction in the differential to multiply the torque before it gets to them, so they need to be stronger.
    Ok, this is making sense now. I figured the gear reduction needed to be considered somehow. I seem to hear about ujoint failures on the axle shafts more often than on the driveshafts, and this logic also seems consistent with that observation.

    JJ151, what wheels did you decide to go with for the XD60? It sounds like my build will have a similar drive train as yours.

  5. #15
    Knows a Thing or Two Seahawkfan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jesse3638 View Post
    This is all good info. I'm going to 37's and will need a regear. I've looked at the charts and was himming and hawing between 4:88's or 5:13's. I was set on 5:13's, but was beginning to second guess this being that I have a manual. I think I'm back to going with 5:13's. I plan on installing a 1350 front when I do the regear. Now to find the time to get those tires installed..haha. Also will be a good time to address the t-case front output shaft leak I just discovered. Pretty sure I just need to put some rtv on the t-case yoke. Looks to be a slow seep that slings onto the under carriage.

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    I had a T-case leak after installing front 1350. Tried twice with the RTV ended up replacing the seal. Good to go. It was bitch finding the correct one. Some have a double seal and some single. Something like that. If I remember correct the color (Light Blue) of the seal ring had something to do with finding the right one. This was on non-Rubi 3.8

  6. #16
    Knows a Thing or Two Seahawkfan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JJ151 View Post
    Gear ratio chart for 3.6L w/auto w/37s shows 2,708 at 70 mph. I’m a bit above that. I may need to recheck my Procal setting.

    Even manual chart shows 2,600 rpm w/5.13 and 37s though.


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    Yea I'm in a 3.8 w/ Superchip Programmer. I was actually amazed at the difference in RPM when I finally went to 37's . Oh MPG didn't change much at all.

  7. #17
    Resident Smartass OverlanderJK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jesse3638 View Post
    This is all good info. I'm going to 37's and will need a regear. I've looked at the charts and was himming and hawing between 4:88's or 5:13's. I was set on 5:13's, but was beginning to second guess this being that I have a manual. I think I'm back to going with 5:13's. I plan on installing a 1350 front when I do the regear. Now to find the time to get those tires installed..haha. Also will be a good time to address the t-case front output shaft leak I just discovered. Pretty sure I just need to put some rtv on the t-case yoke. Looks to be a slow seep that slings onto the under carriage.

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    You don’t hardly drive your Jeep, go 5.13’s. You will be able to hold the grade to mammoth in 5th gear at 80+ and accelerate going up it.


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  8. #18
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    JJ151, what wheels did you decide to go with for the XD60? It sounds like my build will have a similar drive train as yours.[/QUOTE]

    I chose the Hutchinson Rock Monster beadlocks for several reasons. First, I wanted a wheel with a significant backspace to maximize my scrub radius and keep wheels tucked as much as possible. Second, I wanted a beadlocks wheel that I could more easily change. As these are a two piece wheel there is no need to force the tire over a bead of the rim. Third, I like the fact that it locks both the inner and outer bead.


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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverlanderJK View Post
    You don’t hardly drive your Jeep, go 5.13’s. You will be able to hold the grade to mammoth in 5th gear at 80+ and accelerate going up it.


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    It gets driven more now that we have 3 licensed drivers in the house. Yeah I figured I'd benefit more from the lower (5:13) option considering my use. It's going to be going back and forth to Barstow a couple times a week now for my new job. It'll get at least 120 miles a week now..haha.

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