Prep day, went and got the work space all cleaned up. Organized some tools. Went and bought about $25 of bulk grade 8 bolts from TSC. Then did some work on the broken door, I’m not good at welding. I’m REALLY not good at welding thin ass sheet metal. But I managed to get some good metal and decent enough repair on the cracks.
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Did what I could to clean up this horrible patch job. If I keep these doors I’ll redo this in the future when I’m not as hard pressed for time.
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Will squirt some paint at it tomorrow.
Apparently the door handle part went from Kentucky to Alabama to Colorado and now to Indiana will supposedly be here tomorrow after its completed it’s tour of the country. I think now I have done everything I can think of to prep for the cutting and welding, gonna wait for the mercury to rise and attack it.
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Not kidding about this handle holder. That is a bundle of fun.
Got it in. Had to take window out to do it. Which is fine because the felt window seal had been placed in incorrectly at some point as well and gave me a chance to fix that so the window will seal right. Picked up some auto store blue that looks pretty close, good enough for the few inches that’ll be visible.
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Yep that’s it, what a pain in the dick those areOriginally Posted by Snboarder113
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I remember that part from my CJ doors. Total knuckle buster.
2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
2015 JKU Rubicon AEV JK350
1985 Jeep CJ8 Scrambler
I’ve definitely got some new scars on my hand. On the upside. Door project is done. Swapped the lock cylinder over. Got the power lock installed. Got the door panel on. It looks great in dark pictures, but if I find a correct color door in the future I’ll likely snag it. They’re just more best up then I’d like and will have rust issues in the future. But for now I have doors again!
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Seems like quite the process! Glad to hear you’ve completed it
My Build Thread
https://wayalife.com/showthread.php/...es-of-Bearbait
Got some brake swap work done today.
To do a rear brake disc swap from grand Cherokee zj it’s a direct bolt on for Dana 35s, but requires a little modification to put on a dana 44.
The backing plate axle hole needs to be enlarged for the bearing and seal to fit through.
Apparently this 1/2” thick steel plate is made of some kind of dwarven magical metal that is really damn hard to cut, sand, grind.
After like 3 hours and way too many tools I got them big enough to work. It’s always the little projects that take forever.
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It’s pretty damn cool to learn things from your thread I’ve never knew existed. Very cool.
It does seem it is all those little details that you get stuck on.
2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
2015 JKU Rubicon AEV JK350
1985 Jeep CJ8 Scrambler
Always the little things man. Always.
Spent the day under it to get the swap done.
Had an issue with rotors not fitting right over the e brake pads. After an hour with fucking with adjusters and cables I figured out pads somehow got pushed out of position whilst looking like they’re in perfect position. The d44 uses a different shape flange for drums and discs so had to swap the bearings and seals. Also you need longer wheel studs as the discs are thicker than the drums. I got a set of even longer then needed studs because the wheels I run are super thick.
Technically when you switch from drums to disc you want the proportioning valve on the master cylinder from the disc swap donor as well. However the cheater way is to open the end of the valve and remove a rubber o ring. This stops the limiting of fluid going to the rear. Will also cause the rear brakes to grab earlier then designed on a vehicle that was designed for them, this is perfectly fine with me it brakes flatter but still nose dives when you stand on the pedal, braking is greatly improved.
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For the love of god somebody explain to me how a star adjuster works on the e brake drum so I can get this thing adjusted.
The star piece with the gear on it is one piece and threaded. The tube it goes into has no threads so it can free spin. How the hell is this supposed to work. I’ve gotta be missing something.
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Got everything put back together with fresh rotors and pads. Got dark and cold so no pics cuz I was rushing and swearing a lot. It looks like shiny parts on rusty bits.
Here’s my giant margarita.
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Last edited by Snboarder113; 11-21-2019 at 04:19 AM.
The adjuster but should be threaded, and it travels down the threads to push the rod farther out.
The threaded rod doesn't turn, it is locked in place on the brake shoes.
Make sure the knurled piece turns free so it can adjust properly. If it gets tight against the end sometimes it will lock there and not work right.
I hope that makes sense.
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