Clutch less shifting

vasquez27

New member
Does anyone have a good resource/YouTube video on how to do clutchless shifting? Even with my clutch replaced, seems to make a little creaking noise when it gets hot after 5000 miles and the mechanic is telling me this is normal with Jeep clutches. Just trying to find ways to extend the life on the clutch


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cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
To extend the life of a clutch.... USE it correctly.


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And installing it correctly helps as well lol


Since a brand new clutch from the factory DOESNT creek I’m gonna say he installed it wrong or used a shitty aftermarket one
 

Ddays

Hooked
Save the replaceable part by sacrificing the tranny gears trying to match RPM's? :thinking:
 

bhaner

Active Member
Even if you match the gear speed closely it will cause wear on the synchros in the transmission.

Once those are gone they are a real pain to get into gear.

Clutches are much cheaper than transmissions.

Use the clutch. With proper use it can last 200k+ miles.

The biggest issue with clutch failure is heat. Slipping creates heat. So don't ride the clutch for long.

The pressure plate / TO bearing creaking is nothing to worry about. However grinding and squealing with the clutch pedal depressed could be a sign of the TO bearing going out. So keep an ear out for that.
 
Last edited:

jdofmemi

Active Member
Even if you match the gear speed closely it will cause wear on the synchros in the transmission.

Once those are gone they are a real pain to get into gear.

Clutches are much cheaper than transmissions.

Use the clutch. With proper use it can last 200k+ miles.

The biggest issue with clutch failure is heat. Slipping creates heat. So don't ride the clutch for long.

The pressure plate / TO bearing creaking is nothing to worry about. However grinding and squealing with the clutch pedal depressed could be a sign of the TO bearing going out. So keep an ear out for that.

☝️☝️This☝️☝️

Clutch wear is mostly from the initial take off. If you shift properly, you won't put ANY wear on it from one gear to another while moving.

Are you doing it right? I once had an employee who drove a F-450. It was purchased used, so when the clutch failed in six months, I didn't really think much of it. When did months later the new clutch was failing, I called him in and made him drive me around the block.

He slipped the clutch badly to get moving, racing the engine and slipping it until the truck caught up to the engine. Then, on the next shift, already moving, he raced the engine again and slipped the clutch until the truck caught up to the engine. When he did it a third time, I told him just pull over.

I asked him who taught him how to drive? He said nobody. Mind you, he was mid 40's, with a CDL, and in all his life no one had ever told him that was the wrong way to do it.

I made him ride while I drove, and explained how to work the clutch, just enough throttle to not stall out, and minimal slip, then at gear change, match speed and no slip at all.

Then I let him drive again, while coaching him how to do it, and it was like night and day. In the next few years he drove that truck for me he had no more clutch problems.
 

QuicksilverJK

Caught the Bug
You can match RPM to wheel speed and get it to slide in easy. But there is no need as said multiple times above. You will do more damage to your syncros trying to learn how. Just use it, but don't feather or ride it.
The creaking that you described is from the slave cylinder.


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vasquez27

New member
☝️☝️This☝️☝️

Clutch wear is mostly from the initial take off. If you shift properly, you won't put ANY wear on it from one gear to another while moving.

Are you doing it right? I once had an employee who drove a F-450. It was purchased used, so when the clutch failed in six months, I didn't really think much of it. When did months later the new clutch was failing, I called him in and made him drive me around the block.

He slipped the clutch badly to get moving, racing the engine and slipping it until the truck caught up to the engine. Then, on the next shift, already moving, he raced the engine again and slipped the clutch until the truck caught up to the engine. When he did it a third time, I told him just pull over.

I asked him who taught him how to drive? He said nobody. Mind you, he was mid 40's, with a CDL, and in all his life no one had ever told him that was the wrong way to do it.

I made him ride while I drove, and explained how to work the clutch, just enough throttle to not stall out, and minimal slip, then at gear change, match speed and no slip at all.

Then I let him drive again, while coaching him how to do it, and it was like night and day. In the next few years he drove that truck for me he had no more clutch problems.

Sounds like I could use someone like you to see how I’m doing!


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vasquez27

New member
You can match RPM to wheel speed and get it to slide in easy. But there is no need as said multiple times above. You will do more damage to your syncros trying to learn how. Just use it, but don't feather or ride it.
The creaking that you described is from the slave cylinder.


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How do you identify the wheel speed and where the match is? I’ve been upshifting at 3500-4000 RPM and when I down shift I try to blip the gas a little as o release the clutch


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jesse3638

Hooked
How do you identify the wheel speed and where the match is? I’ve been upshifting at 3500-4000 RPM and when I down shift I try to blip the gas a little as o release the clutch


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When down shifting you will need to push the accelerator as the lower gear will require higher rpm to match the wheel speed. However as mentioned there is no need in a jeep. It only has 6 forward gears not 18. I know how as my dad showed me and taught me a a young age. More so for just in case. As mentioned you can really damage and wear out your syncros tying to figure it out. A lot more costly than a clutch.

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