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Thread: To Ditch it Or To Fix It; that time of a Jeep's life

  1. #31
    Fresh Catch thewhalien's Avatar
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    Swap it

    If the jeep is paid for and you know you want to keep it forever, just upgrade the engine now. You'll be 1/4 to 1/3 of the way there with the cost of a remanufactured engine. Robbie of Motech in Las Vegas did my L83 swap on my jeep when i had transmission problems. Could be happier. Drives better than a new jeep. Acceleration better. MPG better. Cruising better. I would do it again.

  2. #32
    Addict wjtstudios's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thewhalien View Post
    If the jeep is paid for and you know you want to keep it forever, just upgrade the engine now. You'll be 1/4 to 1/3 of the way there with the cost of a remanufactured engine. Robbie of Motech in Las Vegas did my L83 swap on my jeep when i had transmission problems. Could be happier. Drives better than a new jeep. Acceleration better. MPG better. Cruising better. I would do it again.
    Thatís the perfect mindset, my transmission needs work so Iíll drop in a V8, and a transmission, thatíll solve the problem. I like the way you think!


    2015 JKUR AEV JK350
    1985 CJ8 Scrambler
    2015 JKU Rubicon AEV JK350
    1985 Jeep CJ8 Scrambler

  3. #33
    Knows a Thing or Two monstrousmac's Avatar
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    Ok, first check your self about the Oil Leak, Rear Main Oil Seal - I thought I had the same thing on my 2010. The dealership told me the same thing. Turned out it was the upper oil pan gasket. It is literally a 20 to 30 minute job. I posted a picture of where mine was leaking.

    Secondly, I had a bad upper stream 02 sensor and the check engine light, 15 minutes to change, then I had the Cat replaced at an exhaust shop, no more engine light - it cost 250.00 dollars. Passed emissions with no problems in Tucson. Bye the way this was al caused by a cracked exhaust manifold, which I changed my self too.

    Third, uJoints are not difficult - Just rent a ball joint press and change them yourself. Not a difficult task. Just make sure when you pull out the axle shaft that there is not more than one plastic axle shaft guide. I had three.

    Fourth, How do they know the coolant is internal is your oil milky in color or frothy. I had a small crack on my reservoir tank.

    The great thing about the Wayalife website is Eddie has put together a plethora of tutorials on how to fix stuff. Very informative and can be done with common hand tools for the most part. Eddie should be teaching a Jeep Automotive class at the local Community College.


    Quote Originally Posted by tonytony9 View Post
    As the title reads, I got some possibly unfortunate news from my mechanic on Monday. Last weekend, I was installing my new winch on my 1/4 pounder and I noticed some drips on my garage floor. To my surprise, I found an accumulation of oil around a gasket. As I started looking around, I also noticed that the radiator was almost bone dry, with just a little fluid in the overfill and possibly some within the radiator itself. Oil seemed a little over a quart low. I believe oil was changed around 3,500k miles ago, and radiator color and level seemed fine around that millage as well. No overheating or indicators lights on the dash for low coolant.

    Brought it in to check on both issues. My mechanic ran a pressure test on the radiator and there were no external leaks. He came back to me with the following issues though:
    • Oil Leak, Rear Main Oil Seal
    • Coolant Loss, Internal Engine
    • R/F Coil Spring Broken
    • 2 Front Axle U Joint, On their last legs
    • Engine Light, Catalytic Convertor O2 Sensors or Cats themselves (knew about this, just never bothered to get fixed yet)




    So the quick background, I am a recent graduate with a new job, I have a 08 JKU now with 168k miles (my first, and only car which has a lot of sentimental value). I commute to work via train so I rarely drive except on the weekends now, and we have other cars in the family. It is the most financially smart move to sell my car, although, I always had a dream of keeping this girl going forever and one day rebuilding it with the build it deserves.

    Body is in great condition, it has some decent modifications and lots of new parts on it. Other than the O2 sensor issue, everything has been exceptionally maintained. Mechanic noted he thought it would not be worth fixing because once he started to break down the engine things could start to snowball on cost. So, I am asking the opinion of the forums. I love the car, and wanted to keep it as a second ride. Not in the position to buy something new. She runs, always felt like a very strong engine. Never has left me stranded. Is it time to ditch it before the value tanks and I sink a ton into it?

    As of right now, I made him do an oil change, top off the coolant, and clean up around the leak. Going to drive it around a few hundred miles and see what my levels are at to see what an estimate of loss/mile range would be.

    To make clear, this is my DD, although I have options of other vehicles to drive for the time being. The engine is currently NOT blown and running fine. I guess we just do not know for how long??
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    Last edited by monstrousmac; 09-04-2019 at 04:08 PM.

  4. #34
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    tried pm'ing you, inbox was full

  5. #35
    Fresh Catch thewhalien's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wjtstudios View Post
    Thatís the perfect mindset, my transmission needs work so Iíll drop in a V8, and a transmission, thatíll solve the problem. I like the way you think!


    2015 JKUR AEV JK350
    1985 CJ8 Scrambler
    Thanks! Comes from years of problem solving. I mean why fix what's broken just to get you back to the same baseline? Might as well upgrade. Seriously though the price difference between a refurbished tranny or a complete drive train upgrade was close enough for me to take the plunge.

    A Hemi or LS/LT swap is going to give you that much more joy. Plus you can blow by the JL and JT drivers with their new jeeps.

  6. #36
    Been Around the Block tonytony9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RockinAZJK View Post
    Iím betting the JK is probably paid though. And being a recent grad that last thing someone needs is a car payment and loan. Hell if Iím being honest the last thing anyone needs is a car payment.


    Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE
    Spot on. No payments. And Iím looking to buy a house soon. Even if I dropped 6k into it, over three years thatís come down to around $200 a month. Plus at least I would not have any future obligations with a very uncertain market place.


    Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

  7. #37
    Been Around the Block tonytony9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by monstrousmac View Post
    Ok, first check your self about the Oil Leak, Rear Main Oil Seal - I thought I had the same thing on my 2010. The dealership told me the same thing. Turned out it was the upper oil pan gasket. It is literally a 20 to 30 minute job. I posted a picture of where mine was leaking.

    Secondly, I had a bad upper stream 02 sensor and the check engine light, 15 minutes to change, then I had the Cat replaced at an exhaust shop, no more engine light - it cost 250.00 dollars. Passed emissions with no problems in Tucson. Bye the way this was al caused by a cracked exhaust manifold, which I changed my self too.

    Third, uJoints are not difficult - Just rent a ball joint press and change them yourself. Not a difficult task. Just make sure when you pull out the axle shaft that there is not more than one plastic axle shaft guide. I had three.

    Fourth, How do they know the coolant is internal is your oil milky in color or frothy. I had a small crack on my reservoir tank.

    The great thing about the Wayalife website is Eddie has put together a plethora of tutorials on how to fix stuff. Very informative and can be done with common hand tools for the most part. Eddie should be teaching a Jeep Automotive class at the local Community College.
    Thanks for the response.

    I fixed they joints, drives like new glad it is fixed.


    I had a crack in my radiator, which is why I was dropping coolant rapidly. Although, the shop did a pressure test, what they claimed, so I believe the crack in my radiator was post leaving the shop. I will monitor coolant levels over next 1000k and see if itís a real issue.

    Since this post I have closely monitored my oil levels, they have not changed over the about 1k miles I have driven since this post. Not an issue. Oil looks completely normal.

    02 sensors & coil I am planning to do over the next few weekends.


    Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app

  8. #38
    Been Around the Block tonytony9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thewhalien View Post
    Thanks! Comes from years of problem solving. I mean why fix what's broken just to get you back to the same baseline? Might as well upgrade. Seriously though the price difference between a refurbished tranny or a complete drive train upgrade was close enough for me to take the plunge.

    A Hemi or LS/LT swap is going to give you that much more joy. Plus you can blow by the JL and JT drivers with their new jeeps.
    Haha god I would like to do this, but I will ride my 3.8 into the ground before I drop the money for the swap.

    Iíve been reading itíll be at least $20k for the swap with new drivetrain. What did your cost come to? Did you do most the work yourself?

    I was considering dropping the 5.3 v8 from a Silverado.


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  9. #39
    Knows a Thing or Two A.J.'s Avatar
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    The oil leak in your picture is probably coming from upper oil pan gasket. Very easy to fix. When/if you fix it pay attention to rtv in the corners which is probably where it's leaking. Several YouTube videos out there to check out on it.


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