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Thread: Long Arm or Short Arm

  1. #1
    Fresh Catch
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    Long Arm or Short Arm

    Okay my friends, this is a topic that’s been drilled into the ground and repeatedly over killed ten times over. But hereeee we gooo again. Really just looking for a push in a certain direction.

    I have a 2011 2 door and am in “phase one” of the build if you will. Currently purchased Tera 60 semi float front and rear with 5.38 and arb lockers both with big brake upgrades, 1350 Adams drive shafts front and rear which I have not gotten yet because I’m waiting on suspension decision hence the post here, and 37” MTZ P3 tires.

    I will be upgrading the transfer case and will be adding hydro assist as well but my indecision thus far has been regarding suspension. I will be sticking with shocks and springs for now, coil overs and all the Gucci stuff can come later.

    Essentially, I am torn on lift height and long or short arm. I know there are pros and cons to both as I’ve read and researched until my eyes have bled. I am leaning toward a 4” long arm and running my 37s. Thing is though, if you can comfortably (I use the term loosely because I know that it’s subjective depending who you ask) run 37’s on a 3.5” short arm lift, am I really going to see a noticeable improvement/difference adding the half inch and running long arms? Anyone out there with experience? Apologies for the long post here but I really want to try and get this as right as I can. It’s a lot of money collectively as you all know if you own a Jeep.

    Side note, I understand the implications of doing a long arm when it comes to welding on brackets, potential tummy tuck, etc. basically just looking for a push in a certain direction. Thanks again guys. Cheers.


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  2. #2
    Resident Smartass OverlanderJK's Avatar
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    Oct 2012
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    Welcome. Sorry about your purchase of teraflex axles. Better luck on your next set.


    Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE
    RECOMMENDED JEEP PARTS & ACCESSORIES

    2012 Dozer JK
    -Dynatrac PR44/Rubicon Rear
    -Nitto 37” Trail Grapplers
    -Rock Krawler 2.5” Lift
    -ATX Slabs
    -Warn VR8
    -EVO Armor/Bumpers

    2012 Billet Silver JKUR
    -EVO DTD front and rear
    -Dynatrac PR60/PR80
    -EVO High Clearance Long Arm
    -Nitto 40” Trail grapplers
    -KMC Machetes
    -JE Reel 1410/1350 Driveshafts
    -Warn CTI 9.5
    -EVO Armor/Bumpers

    1975 DJ5

  3. #3
    Nothing but a Thing boardsurfer's Avatar
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    Jan 2015
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    3 inch plush ride springs, high line flairs, short arms. You wont be missing anything.

  4. #4
    Old Timer fiend's Avatar
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    May 2017
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    You’ll feel the long arm difference on the road, not the trail. Smoother ride, but no increase in travel.


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  5. #5
    Addict wjtstudios's Avatar
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    Nov 2016
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    Rochester, MI.
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    Long arms are affective at speed over bumps and turns on the trail or driving on the roads and taking corners. It helps keep the Jeep flatter in turns and smoother over bumps.

    A wise man once told me think of like pushing a wheel barrel over a bump. If you hold the wheel barrel handles at a steep angle as compared to the ground you have to use a lot of force to get it over the bump. If you hold the handles parallel to the ground, the wheel barrel will float over the same bump.

    So they really do make a difference at speed. For crawling down the trail they will make no difference at all. In fact, depending on which long arms you go with, the rear lower control arm mount can and will grab when breaking over a ledge and has stopped me from making it over. Evo high clearance LAs solve that problem. More complex, but won’t get hung up.

    One more thing to keep in mind with your set up as listed above. When you combine 37s, hydro, and a stock front wheel bearings, It will wear them out fast if you wheel it a lot, so check for play in the front wheels after each run.

    Good luck


    2015 JKUR AEV JK350
    1985 CJ8 Scrambler
    2015 JKU Rubicon AEV JK350
    1985 Jeep CJ8 Scrambler

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