Which Evo Enforcer stage?

bmkrinne

Active Member
I’m a little confused on which stage to pick when selecting the 4” Evo Enforcer lift kit. This will replace my AEV 2.5” XT lift with geo brackets.

Thinking of the stage 2 with drag link flip, but need some help with the decision.

What are the benefits of getting the rear upper control arms in the stage 2 versus using the OEM arms with a stage 1 kit? Both stages come with the lower front arms.

I’ll also be replacing my 35” tires with 37’s.

Thanks in advance!!!


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boardsurfer

Active Member
4 inches is quite a bit of lift and your geometry (steering and driveline) is going to change a lot. I would get the lift that addresses all of those things - drag link flip, rear uppers, front lowers. etc. Personally, I'd get all 8 arms and have complete control over axle placement and drive line/steering angles.

Also may want to budget for drive shafts if you haven't already.
 
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TrailHunter

Hooked
I bought the 3” stage 2... which is cool... but now I look at my front LCA’s and how beefy they are...then look at my stock rear Lowers and it annoys me... I’ll be buying rear lowers soon.. I should have just bought stage 3. Plus The lowers are what hit the rocks. Stronger the better.
 

bmkrinne

Active Member
The reason I am wanting the 4” versus the 3” is to keep the stock painted fenders without cutting. I plan to replace the front drive shaft along with regearing.

Agree that it would be nice to totally control location and orientation of both axles with all 4 adjustable control arms. For a weekend vehicle, is it worth the extra cost?


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MericaMade

Active Member
I’m a little confused on which stage to pick when selecting the 4” Evo Enforcer lift kit. This will replace my AEV 2.5” XT lift with geo brackets.

Thinking of the stage 2 with drag link flip, but need some help with the decision.

What are the benefits of getting the rear upper control arms in the stage 2 versus using the OEM arms with a stage 1 kit? Both stages come with the lower front arms.

I’ll also be replacing my 35” tires with 37’s.

Thanks in advance!!!


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To keep your fenders stock you will need to go 4-inch and even with 37s might rub a little. Do the drag-link flip and the front lowers and rear uppers to start. The rear uppers let you adjust your driveshaft angle.
 

bkac

Caught the Bug
I’m running 38” tires with a 3.5” lift and don’t rub anywhere. I’d say you’d be fine with a 3” lift.


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bmkrinne

Active Member
I bought the 3” stage 2... which is cool... but now I look at my front LCA’s and how beefy they are...then look at my stock rear Lowers and it annoys me... I’ll be buying rear lowers soon.. I should have just bought stage 3. Plus The lowers are what hit the rocks. Stronger the better.

You make a good point! My OCD would probably tear me up with mismatched lower arms. I hadn’t thought about it from that perspective. [emoji16]




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jdofmemi

Active Member
I bought the 3” stage 2... which is cool... but now I look at my front LCA’s and how beefy they are...then look at my stock rear Lowers and it annoys me... I’ll be buying rear lowers soon.. I should have just bought stage 3. Plus The lowers are what hit the rocks. Stronger the better.

This☝️

I folded up a rear lower arm in the rocks, but those who have wheeled with me might know why.
 

-AINOKEA-

Hooked
I started with stage 1 at 3” and my caster was terrible. Almost immediately bought front and rear uppers. Still need to get lowers.. if I could do it all over again and had the coin, I’d go straight to stage 3 with the drag link flip.


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fiend

Caught the Bug
To keep your fenders stock you will need to go 4-inch and even with 37s might rub a little. Do the drag-link flip and the front lowers and rear uppers to start. The rear uppers let you adjust your driveshaft angle.

I’m running 38” tires with a 3.5” lift and don’t rub anywhere. I’d say you’d be fine with a 3” lift.


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Whether you rub or not is controlled by bump stop not lift height. Sure you can run 37s or 38s with stock fenders if you run enough bump stop. But you’d lose an appreciable amount of up travel.

I started with a 4.5” lift, 37s, and stock fenders. I rubbed even with 4” of bump stop, mostly up front. I added another 3/4” of bump stop and ran that for a while, but definitely lost some up flex. Went to MCEs and back to 4” of bump. No more rubbing.


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bmkrinne

Active Member
Sounds like the majority here recommend the stage 3 with front and rear upper/lower arms. The cost isn’t a driver, just didn’t want to have regrets after install.

I’ll try 4” bump stops as you guys suggest and see if the new tires rub.

Thanks for all the insights, guys. I appreciate it!!!


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Texas Nick

Caught the Bug
On another note.. usually if you have a stock rear drive line, you can stay with your stock uppers. Depending on how much you flex it out, the boot might contact the evap skid and tear it a bit. Other than that, you’ll be fine in the rear unless you already have an aftermarket shaft. Then in which case, you’ll have to get the rear uppers to dial it in.
 

desertrunner

Active Member
FWIW I still have stock front and rear lowers on mine at about 3" lift and 37s. My front axle is a PR44U so with the caster that adds I needed uppers to adjust it right which is a little different than the norm. I really have no intention at this point to replace the lowers unless I break one. My caster and driveline angles set up just fine with out them. I didn't feel the need to spend money on something that I 1 didn't need at the time and 2 is more of a pain to set up. You should be just fine with front lowers and rear uppers but if cost isn't an issue I guess why not just get all 8 but you may not actually need all 8.

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jayreyno

New member
Enforcer stage 2 pro

i have a jeep sahara 2016 75 anniversary trimmed, 4 doors, just ordered enforcer st 2 pro wondering if i will need to order a front and rear drive shaft?
 

-AINOKEA-

Hooked
i have a jeep sahara 2016 75 anniversary trimmed, 4 doors, just ordered enforcer st 2 pro wondering if i will need to order a front and rear drive shaft?

[emoji112] at least the front. And get a 1350. You should probably get the front UCAs as well to help with caster.


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