2011 JK - Replacement Exhaust Bolt/nuts?

Whiskeyjack

Whiskeyjack

Member
Hey guys.

Just pulled my exhaust today so I can drop the transmission. The exhaust bolts at the manifold were a pain in the ass and I want to replace them with something better. The one I'm talking about is the one with the square nut up at the manifold. Any recommendations for replacement?
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Whiskeyjack said:
Hey guys.

Just pulled my exhaust today so I can drop the transmission. The exhaust bolts at the manifold were a pain in the ass and I want to replace them with something better. The one I'm talking about is the one with the square nut up at the manifold. Any recommendations for replacement?
Click to expand...

If your talking about where the manifold mates with the cat converter then just remove what’s left of the factory bolt and shove whatever new bolt will fit in there.

Other option would be to replace the manifold which I would recommend anyway if it is cracked. Crown makes a cheap replacement manifold
 
Whiskeyjack

Whiskeyjack

Member
cozdude said:
If your talking about where the manifold mates with the cat converter then just remove what’s left of the factory bolt and shove whatever new bolt will fit in there.

Other option would be to replace the manifold which I would recommend anyway if it is cracked. Crown makes a cheap replacement manifold
Click to expand...

It's this guy. I guess I can just grab a grade 8 bolt and nut that fits and throw it in there, just wasn't sure if someone had a "go to" bolt that fits best (for clearance, etc).

20200426_201929.jpg
 
A.J.

A.J.

Active Member
You will want the pinch type lock nuts and new bolts the same size(they are metric) or sae equivalent. Not nylock for obvious reasons. Heat. You could get the factory bolts but as you have seen the little tin clips that hold the square nut suck and come loose after awhile. As stated above the manifolds are prone to cracking. Ticking noise on cold starts will be your first clue.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Whiskeyjack

Whiskeyjack

Member
A.J. said:
You will want the pinch type lock nuts and new bolts the same size(they are metric) or sae equivalent. Not nylock for obvious reasons. Heat. You could get the factory bolts but as you have seen the little tin clips that hold the square nut suck and come loose after awhile. As stated above the manifolds are prone to cracking. Ticking noise on cold starts will be your first clue.


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

Good call. I hadn't even thought against the nylock nuts despite the obvious issues...glad I asked, haha.
 
jeeeep

jeeeep

Hooked
if you want OEM, the clip lock nut is M10x1.50

bolt/washer is M10x1.5x50

I found compatible hardware at ACE Hardware.

After I had my manifolds replaced, the shop used regular grade 8 bolt and nut, without clip or the shop not using a pinch nut, they kept coming loose.

I used the clip lock nut style and solved it from working loose.

Don't forget some high heat anti-seize
 
Whiskeyjack

Whiskeyjack

Member
jeeeep said:
if you want OEM, the clip lock nut is M10x1.50

bolt/washer is M10x1.5x50

I found compatible hardware at ACE Hardware.

After I had my manifolds replaced, the shop used regular grade 8 bolt and nut, without clip or the shop not using a pinch nut, they kept coming loose.

I used the clip lock nut style and solved it from working loose.

Don't forget some high heat anti-seize
Click to expand...

Thanks for the specifics, that definitely helps. Did you go with the OEM clip lock nut or did you go with something else. Hoping to grab a replacement from ACE or HD if possible.
 
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