PSC Big Bore Cylinder Assist install issues

I just installed the PSC Big Bore Cylinder Assist Kit - SK291. The install of everything minus the cylinder was pretty straightforward minus the fact that PSC doesn't send any instructions - only a diagram, which if you hook up according to the diagram results in the cylinder extending when making a right hand turn. That resulted in a nice mess swapping those hoses around.

That setback is minor in comparison to the main issue I have. This kit ships with very nice quality crimped high pressure hoses for the cylinder. One end has straight fittings and the other end has 90 degree fittings. It's impossible to get the 90 degree fittings on the gear box so that means they go on the cylinder. The issue I am having is that the high stiffness of the hoses combined with 90 degree fittings is pushing the cylinder forward and the hoses into the space between the pitman arm and track bar. This will result in a pinch when making right hand turns. I ran the hoses from the gear box through the transmission cooler lines and over the track bar as this seemed the most efficient route but results in the hose pushing I just described. If I tried routing the hoses outside of the cooler lines I think I would wind up with a hose shortage at full droop and the hoses want to push themselves back into the pulleys of the engine under normal conditions.

I have tried multiple combinations of adjusting and routing these hoses and nothing seems clean and efficient. I have no idea why PSC would go with 90 degree fittings on these hoses versus a 45 degree bend. All the photos I have seen show cylinder hoses with a 45 degree bend on the passenger side and a straight fitting on the driver side. This would work. These 90 degree fittings on these very stiff hoses do no work as far as I can tell. Below are photos of my current install. I still haven't tried to road test this as I just don't like the way the hoses are routing themselves basically. Does anyone have photos of these exact hoses installed on your rig? The spiral wrap is something I added to provide protection and does not increase hose stiffness.

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bhaner

Active Member
I ended up having new hoses made. They weren't long enough. Figured it was just my setup.
 
I ended up having new hoses made. They weren't long enough. Figured it was just my setup.

How much longer did you have to have them made? I have 3.5" of lift. They seem to be long enough if they weren't wasting length bending to the driver side but I haven't tested them full droop, though. Can't really do that in my garage. Northridge 4x4 swears they make them work. They just can't tell me or show me how they do it.
 

bhaner

Active Member
I can't remember how much longer I made them. I would say at least another 5". But I have quite a bit of drop with this setup.

I do know the ports on my cylinder face up. So that may help you some.
 

wjtstudios

Hooked
My set ups a little closer to yours. I’m running about 4.5” of lift. I have two 45 degree fittings at the ram and a straight and a 45 at the gear.

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I made sure to measure my hose length at full droop. The longest hose measures 2’7”. The shorter, 2’4”.


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
 

Weebz

Caught the Bug
Mines pretty similar to Bills except I’m a 90 and a 45 off the ram and both straight off my gear box.

Kind of hard to see but hope it helps.
 

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Weebz

Caught the Bug
This time with right picture at gearbox
 

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This time with right picture at gearbox

This is teaching me that there is a ton of inconsistency at PSC. The fittings at my gearbox don’t look like that. They angle down together. They are so close together that it is almost impossible to put on the one closest to the front if the one closest to the firewall is already on.

It looks like all of us have different fittings and hoses. I sent PSC a photo and they said something definitely doesn’t look right. The guy said he’d get with the hose people and get back to me.

At this point there is zero chance I use these hoses as supplied to finish off this install. I’m very anal about my installs and everything must be clean and functional. This is not clean at all.
 

wjtstudios

Hooked
Try talking to Kelvin if he’s there. He’s help me with both of my builds


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
 
Try talking to Kelvin if he’s there. He’s help me with both of my builds


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler

He's the guy who emailed me today. I hope I hear from him in the morning. I already have the hoses off to take to a hose shop tomorrow for rebuilding. I really don't want to have to do that since this kit ain't cheap. PSC should be making this right.

But the hoses aren't the only thing that need modifying. I had my Steer Smarts track bar relocation bracket modified for the cylinder. Unfortunately I gave my welder bad specs so when I'm at a full hard right the tie rod juuuuuussst kisses the anchor bolt. We'll move the tabs up 1/2" and have plenty of room then. I have the bolt flipped upside down in the photo just to see if it would clear that way. It won't be permanently mounted that way.

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jdofmemi

Active Member
He's the guy who emailed me today. I hope I hear from him in the morning. I already have the hoses off to take to a hose shop tomorrow for rebuilding. I really don't want to have to do that since this kit ain't cheap. PSC should be making this right.

But the hoses aren't the only thing that need modifying. I had my Steer Smarts track bar relocation bracket modified for the cylinder. Unfortunately I gave my welder bad specs so when I'm at a full hard right the tie rod juuuuuussst kisses the anchor bolt. We'll move the tabs up 1/2" and have plenty of room then. I have the bolt flipped upside down in the photo just to see if it would clear that way. It won't be permanently mounted that way.

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I would not want my fittings facing forward like that. You will be inviting them to get broken off on a rock. It will only be a matter of time.

Figure out how to rotate the cylinder 90 degrees so the lines go up instead of forward.
 
I would not want my fittings facing forward like that. You will be inviting them to get broken off on a rock. It will only be a matter of time.

Figure out how to rotate the cylinder 90 degrees so the lines go up instead of forward.

I agree totally. The only way I have found with these hoses to rotate the cylinder up is take the 90 degree fitting and point them to the front of the vehicle. And that's no better. It looks terrible and is still and issue. Unless PSC ships me new hoses I will just have these remade.
 

zimm

Caught the Bug
I would take the hoses off. Set the cylinder where you want it. Then mock up some fake hoses with rubber line or garden hose and some zip ties. Figure out the lengths at full droop. Visualize what angle fittings will work best at each end. Then take the mock ups to the hydro shop and get new lines made. My lines were made while I waited, only takes about 1/2 hour. Don't forget to add abrasion sleeves.
 
I'm measured my lines. The short one is 30.5" fitting to fitting and the long one is 36.5". I have no way to get my Jeep to full droop in my garage so I'm going to have to wing this part. With a 3.5" lift does anyone see a problem with these hose lengths? If not, I'll have them remade with the proper fittings to these same lengths. I appreciate everyone's input.
 

jesse3638

Hooked
I'm measured my lines. The short one is 30.5" fitting to fitting and the long one is 36.5". I have no way to get my Jeep to full droop in my garage so I'm going to have to wing this part. With a 3.5" lift does anyone see a problem with these hose lengths? If not, I'll have them remade with the proper fittings to these same lengths. I appreciate everyone's input.
If you have tall Jack stands (I have harbor freight 12 tons) use a floor jack and some wood to lift the jeep as high as needed to extend them all the way and set them under the frame. Then you can use your jack to move the axle up and down. You should be able to get full droop that way. I've done if with mine in an 8' tall garage.

Sent from my SM-G973U using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

zimm

Caught the Bug
You can get full droop. Use 6 ton jack stands, raise enough to remove the front wheels, then raise to full height, then lower the axle.

I wouldn't waste all that money on lines that might end up short.
 
Thank you gentlemen. I'll pick up a pair of 6 ton stands this evening and get this sorted.

I did hear back from PSC. They said I have the cylinder mounted too far to the driver side of the vehicle and that means the hoses are too long for my application. They offered to send me the builder hose kit that I would cut myself.

I appreciate them doing that but I told them that no where in any of their installation information (which is minimal at best) is there a clear recommendation on where the cylinder should mount. I read these cylinder mounting tips about a dozen times and still can't figure out what they are saying. They should assume that only lifted vehicles with big tires are going to want these kits and that means the track bar is going to be relocated somehow, changing the stock mounting locations. With relocation brackets that means the cylinder mount options will vary a couple inches either way.

Honestly, this kit was really easy to install. It has just come down to wrong hoses for the cylinder. So if you buy this kit, just be aware you may need to use different hoses.

My final question to the group is should I use the builder hose kit or just pay the $100 at my local hose shop to have crimped hoses made?
 

jdofmemi

Active Member
Option three:

Have them send you the kit, then have your local shop build the hoses and carry the builder kit as a spare.
 

fiend

Caught the Bug
They must have changed their kit. When I got mine some years ago it came with parts so you could build your own hoses at the lengths you wanted and with the fittings oriented how you wanted them. Easy peasy.


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