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Thread: GM 14 Bolt front and rear swap

  1. #31
    Been Around the Block RageKage's Avatar
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    Well, I emailed Artec industries to ask if they’re new apex truss would work for the rear and whattaknow.... it won’t because the diff has no ribs. Not a complete deterrent but definitely as bummed as the apex truss has all the bracketry as a single piece just drop on and weld. Back to the drawing board I guess. There’s gotta be something for an ‘85 14bolt to go in a JK...


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  2. #32
    Nothing but a Thing QuicksilverJK's Avatar
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    Artec JK6111 is listed as a basic, pretty universal jk bracket kit. It should work on nearly any axle. Unfortunately it takes more time and care when placing them to insure everything functions properly. They really did make things easy for people with that new apex kit though.


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  3. #33
    Nothing but a Thing Speedy_RCW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RageKage View Post
    Well, I emailed Artec industries to ask if they’re new apex truss would work for the rear and whattaknow.... it won’t because the diff has no ribs. Not a complete deterrent but definitely as bummed as the apex truss has all the bracketry as a single piece just drop on and weld. Back to the drawing board I guess. There’s gotta be something for an ‘85 14bolt to go in a JK...


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    Bummer. Can you measure between those flanges on the ends of the axle tubes? There are so many different widths on these axles I can’t keep it straight.


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  4. #34
    Been Around the Block RageKage's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by QuicksilverJK View Post
    Artec JK6111 is listed as a basic, pretty universal jk bracket kit. It should work on nearly any axle. Unfortunately it takes more time and care when placing them to insure everything functions properly. They really did make things easy for people with that new apex kit though.


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    Yea the basic kit should work. I was just hoping to be able to use the simplicity of the APEX truss. Less room for error. But not a big issue, just gunna have to measure 10 times and weld once lol


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  5. #35
    Been Around the Block RageKage's Avatar
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    GM 14 Bolt front and rear swap

    Quote Originally Posted by Speedy_RCW View Post
    Bummer. Can you measure between those flanges on the ends of the axle tubes? There are so many different widths on these axles I can’t keep it straight.


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    If the flange you mean is the mounting bracket for the brake drum then flange to flange is 54 5/8”


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  6. #36
    Been Around the Block RageKage's Avatar
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    I believe I might also be able to use Artec kit Jk6115 and just not have a truss. It seems to have all the brackets set up accordingly already with minimal guess work required. Could be wrong tho.IMG_0679.jpg


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  7. #37
    Nothing but a Thing QuicksilverJK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RageKage View Post
    If the flange you mean is the mounting bracket for the brake drum then flange to flange is 54 5/8”


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    If that’s the case then according to this diagram you aren’t gonna have enough room to properly space the brackets. IMG_7986.jpg


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  8. #38
    Nothing but a Thing Speedy_RCW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RageKage View Post
    If the flange you mean is the mounting bracket for the brake drum then flange to flange is 54 5/8”


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    I dunno man. That’s gonna be extremely tight to get the upper control arm brackets in there. I built one of the new wider housings for a JK and those brackets were out as wide as they could possibly go and that was still more narrow than factory. The ribbed housing 14b is about 58” between flanges which is very close to the factory JK rear. With your housing being 4” narrower I’d be concerned about the upper control arms having clearance issues with the frame during articulation. I suppose you could get around that by doing a 3 link setup in the rear which would eliminate the UCA mounts at each end of the axle. As I mentioned before, trying to retube that axle would be a bear and in my opinion, can’t be done properly without access to specialty tools.


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  9. #39
    Been Around the Block RageKage's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedy_RCW View Post
    I dunno man. That’s gonna be extremely tight to get the upper control arm brackets in there. I built one of the new wider housings for a JK and those brackets were out as wide as they could possibly go and that was still more narrow than factory. The ribbed housing 14b is about 58” between flanges which is very close to the factory JK rear. With your housing being 4” narrower I’d be concerned about the upper control arms having clearance issues with the frame during articulation. I suppose you could get around that by doing a 3 link setup in the rear which would eliminate the UCA mounts at each end of the axle. As I mentioned before, trying to retube that axle would be a bear and in my opinion, can’t be done properly without access to specialty tools.


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    What if I cut the ends off and just welded more tube on each end? That might come with the cost of new shafts, and the end price of that would prolly be the same if not a little more than just getting a newer 14b. I definitely am not trying to switch to a 3 link set up. I like the set up I have now and want to keep cost and modification as low as possible. I mean yes a 1 ton swap is already a big mod in itself. The whole start of this was because the axles basically we’re laying around and I was hoping I could make these axles work for less than the cost of Dynatrac’s trail ready package. I don’t do anywhere near the type of wheeling to “NEED” 1 tons but figured if I could get them for near the same price why not. But it seems like that might be to no avail. But it is what it is. I haven’t spent any money on anything yet so I’m not upset about it just bummed cuz I think these free axles are going to require a lot more work and fabrication than they’re worth.


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  10. #40
    Nothing but a Thing Speedy_RCW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RageKage View Post
    What if I cut the ends off and just welded more tube on each end? That might come with the cost of new shafts, and the end price of that would prolly be the same if not a little more than just getting a newer 14b. I definitely am not trying to switch to a 3 link set up. I like the set up I have now and want to keep cost and modification as low as possible. I mean yes a 1 ton swap is already a big mod in itself. The whole start of this was because the axles basically we’re laying around and I was hoping I could make these axles work for less than the cost of Dynatrac’s trail ready package. I don’t do anywhere near the type of wheeling to “NEED” 1 tons but figured if I could get them for near the same price why not. But it seems like that might be to no avail. But it is what it is. I haven’t spent any money on anything yet so I’m not upset about it just bummed cuz I think these free axles are going to require a lot more work and fabrication than they’re worth.


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    People have done it that way. You’d cut the tube somewhere between the pumpkin and the flange, then sleeve it and put a longer piece of tubing in to widen the axle. I wouldn’t recommend you do it that way. In addition to that being a failure point, you’d have to make damn sure everything is perfectly straight and doesn’t warp when welding which would be unlikely without access to a true-bar. Going to 1 tons is a costly project even with junkyard axles. Sit down and make a list of all the parts you’d need to build the axles and get the jeep on the road. Don’t forget to include things like steering, wheels, tone rings/brackets, bearings, etc. Then add some fat to that. You’ll see it isn’t cheap by any means. Especially if you’re trying to build custom axle housings.


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