Front Axle Options

I did an inspection after spending the last week in Utah. I got some nice dents on the gas skid and scrapes on other components while in Moab. On one front lower control arm bracket it’s been bent outward. It’s been bent from previous outings but I never got to bend it back and put a skid on it. So now it’s bent to the point where I see a couple of small tears around the bolt head.

A local shop mentioned it’ll be 2-3 hours of labor plus the cost of Synergy brackets to redo both sides, which are around $60 just for the brackets.

Part of me thinks I should bite the bullet and use the $350-450(my guess) and use it towards a PR44 housing and have them transfer my Rubicon components over. I have a hard time spending more money on the stock axle that’ll still bend.

Am I right in thinking this is a valid reason to make the upgrade? Or should I just fix the stock D44 and run it till it breaks?

4WP does have a paid tax promo that does work with the PR44 if I decide to get one.
 

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fiend

Caught the Bug
I’ve never regretted upgrading to my PR44, although even with that I boxed in those control arm mounts. They’re in a vulnerable location.


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WJCO

Meme King
This was a fairly light hit on my prorock. I slipped off a rock at nearly zero mph. I'm not saying don't upgrade, but shit happens in that area.

DSC06842.jpg
 
I’ve never regretted upgrading to my PR44, although even with that I boxed in those control arm mounts. They’re in a vulnerable location.


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I feel like that’ll be the case with the PR if I do upgrade. I’m assuming the brackets on the PR are the same thickness as the Synergy. I’d do the same and box the brackets in.

I know I’m supposed to look for the unlimited housing with the 1/2 tubes and added caster. Is the model number ending in 1X3010-G? I’ve seen another PR that ends with 1X3010-W that also has the same tubes and extra caster
 
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JKbrick

Active Member
I feel like that’ll be the case with the PR if I do upgrade. I’m assuming the brackets on the PR are the same thickness as the Synergy. I’d do the same and box the brackets in.

I know I’m supposed to look for the unlimited housing with the 1/2 tubes and added caster. Is the model number ending in 1X3010-G? I’ve seen another PR that ends with 1X3010-W that also has the same tubes and extra caster

I’m looking at a PR now too. I don’t have the numbers written down but the numbers may be Rubicon and non Rubicon


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WJCO

Meme King
I feel like that’ll be the case with the PR if I do upgrade. I’m assuming the brackets on the PR are the same thickness as the Synergy. I’d do the same and box the brackets in.

I know I’m supposed to look for the unlimited housing with the 1/2 tubes and added caster. Is the model number ending in 1X3010-G? I’ve seen another PR that ends with 1X3010-W that also has the same tubes and extra caster

I think the "G" model is the one that allows the Rubicon electric locker whereas the "W" model allows a conventional locker like an ARB. Make sure and do your research to make sure you get the correct one.
 
I think the "G" model is the one that allows the Rubicon electric locker whereas the "W" model allows a conventional locker like an ARB. Make sure and do your research to make sure you get the correct one.

Alright. Just checked various sites and looks like and the G is for Rubi lockers.

Part Number: DPCJK44-1X3010-G
JK Rubicon Front Axle Housing Kit
Pro Rock 44 Center Section
Machined For Rubicon Tru-Lok Electric Locker Only
Includes OEM Ball Joints
65.5" Overall Width
1/2" Wall HD Tube: Extra Caster For Lifted Applications
Requires Use Of Rubicon Style Axle Shafts
Reuses JK Knuckles Out
 

fiend

Caught the Bug
Alright. Just checked various sites and looks like and the G is for Rubi lockers.

Part Number: DPCJK44-1X3010-G
JK Rubicon Front Axle Housing Kit
Pro Rock 44 Center Section
Machined For Rubicon Tru-Lok Electric Locker Only
Includes OEM Ball Joints
65.5" Overall Width
1/2" Wall HD Tube: Extra Caster For Lifted Applications
Requires Use Of Rubicon Style Axle Shafts
Reuses JK Knuckles Out

That’s the housing I have. After component wear/failure over the years, upgraded with Rancho knuckles, Dynatrac ball joints, Currie tie rod, Teraflex big brakes, Ten Factory chromoly shafts.


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That’s the housing I have. After component wear/failure over the years, upgraded with Rancho knuckles, Dynatrac ball joints, Currie tie rod, Teraflex big brakes, Ten Factory chromoly shafts.


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Awesome. I currently have the Dynatrac joints and brakes, Fusion tie rod and drag link, and Rancho knuckles on my Rubi axle. Still have the stock axle shafts but I’ll upgrade those eventually.
 

fiend

Caught the Bug
Awesome. I currently have the Dynatrac joints and brakes, Fusion tie rod and drag link, and Rancho knuckles on my Rubi axle. Still have the stock axle shafts but I’ll upgrade those eventually.

Nice thing is all your upgrades will work with the PR44. Its a solid set up.

Adjustments.jpg 6A47BCB7-7783-4159-B766-BEBF8D5B1680.jpg


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That's a great lookin rig. I had one buddy who ran the PR44 with a DTD and it handled whatever he threw at it. He did not baby his JK at all either lol
 

JKbrick

Active Member
Alright. Just checked various sites and looks like and the G is for Rubi lockers.

Part Number: DPCJK44-1X3010-G
JK Rubicon Front Axle Housing Kit
Pro Rock 44 Center Section
Machined For Rubicon Tru-Lok Electric Locker Only
Includes OEM Ball Joints
65.5" Overall Width
1/2" Wall HD Tube: Extra Caster For Lifted Applications
Requires Use Of Rubicon Style Axle Shafts
Reuses JK Knuckles Out

I could be wrong but I’m seeing -W is for Rubicon


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bmkrinne

Active Member
Here is the part number I ordered: DYNJK44-1X3010-W

JK Pro Rock 44 Front Housing Unlimited Geometry No Ball Joints .5 in Wall - Fits Rubicon Tru Lok Diff


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zimm

Caught the Bug
Is that "ear" busted off the axle tube, or is it just the rock rash you're concerned with? I can't tell from the pic.
 
Awesome. I currently have the Dynatrac joints and brakes, Fusion tie rod and drag link, and Rancho knuckles on my Rubi axle. Still have the stock axle shafts but I’ll upgrade those eventually.

What size tires are you running? Sounds like you’ve got a pretty well set up front end already. Looks like maybe you have some inner C gussets as well? I’m going to step up to 37s on my next time around, and I plan on maybe welding some home made trusses and stiffeners on the stock rubicon axle housing and saving my money for 60s down the road. The desire for full floats creeps up on you...


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Is that "ear" busted off the axle tube, or is it just the rock rash you're concerned with? I can't tell from the pic.

There was two small tears in the metal close to the bolt head. I wound up having the holes welded closed for the time being since some other expenses came up.
 
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