Drag Link Flip

B

Blue Weim

New member
2014 JK Rubicon Unlimited

I currently have a Evo Mfg Drag link Flip but want to switch to Synergy. Does anyone know if it will work. I know the Synergy requires drilling to 7/8 but comes with a sleeve. Not sure what size the Evo drag link was drilled too.

Thank you
Ernie


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Blue Weim said:
2014 JK Rubicon Unlimited

I currently have a Evo Mfg Drag link Flip but want to switch to Synergy. Does anyone know if it will work. I know the Synergy requires drilling to 7/8 but comes with a sleeve. Not sure what size the Evo drag link was drilled too.

Thank you
Ernie


Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...

EVO's is 13/16" , so you should be good if it was drilled correctly originally: http://evomfg.com/EVO JK Drag Link Flip Kit

Why are you switching?
 
Blue Weim said:
2014 JK Rubicon Unlimited

I currently have a Evo Mfg Drag link Flip but want to switch to Synergy. Does anyone know if it will work. I know the Synergy requires drilling to 7/8 but comes with a sleeve. Not sure what size the Evo drag link was drilled too.

Thank you
Ernie


Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using WAYALIFE mobile app
Click to expand...
The Synergy sleeve is slightly bigger than Evo's so drilling out from that Evo 13/16 to this Synergy is a bitch but just take your time and buy a brand new drill bit.
 
Couple thoughts as I've had issues with these in the past:

Pull the knuckle and drill in a press or have it machined. If the hole isn't perfect, the sleeve will shift in the hole and cause a loose draglink. I ended up welding my bung into the knuckle to stop the problem. Welding does solve the problem, if it occurs :p

The Synergy will flop as the joints get older/looser. Not a big deal when daily driving or crawling, but if you are romping it off-road, you can hear the bar bouncing. I noticed it pretty bad on my last trip to Sand Hollow.
Yes, the joints can be clocked to minimize the flop, but it was always there in some form or another.

Just my experience. Still a great bar for the money, the replaceable ends are inexpensive. I would have no issues running one today if I didn't have tons and a custom setup. :p
 
I went with Teraflex. It was an easy install. I just drilled the knuckle with a taper drill and installed it. Over 50k miles on same joint 40k with 35” tires and the 39” bfg for over 10k. I know everyone on here hates teraflex. But the steering kit came with my Alpine Long Arm kit and I have never had a problem.


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jesse3638 said:
Why not just buy a crown RHD replacement. It's like $65 bucks. You'll get another 150k miles out of it. If you do go with synergy I'd try dropping it in before messing with the spacer. When I installed my EVO flip kit it required me to drill it to 7/8". I think the inside taper may be the same on both spacers.

Edit: $67

https://www.quadratec.com/p/crown-a...zWu9bNS00OLTn0eFR9ldocCMjmItidA0aAuexEALw_wcB

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This^^ I have bent my drag link and just replaced it with a crown link. It’s a factory link just like what EVO sends you and it holds up great. For $65 it’s worth it.
 
cozdude said:
This^^ I have bent my drag link and just replaced it with a crown link. It’s a factory link just like what EVO sends you and it holds up great. For $65 it’s worth it.
Click to expand...

Second this. I went from a Fusion alum back to a stock RHD DL because of clearance issues. Held up to a few curbs last year. Sometimes stock does the job just fine.
 
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