EVO 1/4 Pounder install and Swaybar Relocation

StrizzyChris

New member
I installed the EVO 1/4 pounder and used the provided instructions. It also shows how to relocate the sway bar motor out of the way due to the high clearance design of their bumper. I must say that the instructions are sufficient, but not completely clear and being black and white makes it even harder to see what they are doing. Took a ton of pics, so I hope this helps supplement their info.

First you will want to remove the front grill to prevent possible damage. You must first disconnect the front turn signals. Slide the red tab away from the signal and then squeeze the release tab.





Next you will want to remove the upper and lower shrouds. The upper, has Philips headed plastic screw securing it. I have always had trouble removing these and I have found the trick of using a self tapping or drywall screw to help in removing these. They wont strip or become damaged by doing this so don't worry.





Next remove your factory fog lights. there are two ways of doing this. Either from the housing and pulling the bulb through like I did or by unplugging it.



The lower shroud is easy to remove from above(or start to remove) by using your screw driver to push the pin through







once everything is completed and dethatched from the bumper, you will now use an 18mm socket to unbolt the bumper from the frame



Next, if you have a 2012+ model Jeep, you will need to remove your vacuum pump. There are two hose attachments and an electrical connection that are easily located. One hose, you will press the green tab away from the connection and pull it directly out. The electrical connection plug has an easy squeeze and release point. Lastly the plain black hose. It is firmly in place and you just pull, very firmly, strait down.







With your pump removed you will now need to cut the pump bracket off. I made two vertical cuts right where the bracket meets the cross bar mount.





Next you will cut off your lower shroud attetchment bar/sway bar guard. These lines just perfectly cleared the bumpers lower edge.





The drivers side of the vehicle has room for moving tools around, but if you have a rubicon, the sway bar motor is tight, and cutting the passenger side rear bar off is difficult. I used the holes in the cross bar to place my pry bar and bend the rear remaining tab for easier cutting access.



If you have a non Rubicon model, Jeep is now ready for the bumper to be installed. I would take this time to clean up your exposed metal areas and paint them to prevent the certain rusting that will fallow otherwise. Also installing your chosen evap relocation kit(2012+ Jeeps) would be a good idea since you have clearance.



If you do have a rubicon, you will be required to relocate your sway bar motor. To do this you will disconnect the wiring and then unbolt the motor from the rubber mount securing it in place. Keep the bolt in the rubber sleeve, you will be reusing it as is.



Once unbolted, the sway bar motor will now spin freely. You will, if looking at the jeep from the passenger side, rotate the motor clockwise. Your factory mounting point will now be lower.



The next bolt, above the previous mounting bolt, will be your new mounting location. You will now remove this bolt.(I wished to save the bolt so you can now place this loose bolt into the original mounting place



To fully install the motor mounting bolt again in its new location, you will need to tap the new hole with a X" (I forget the size) drill. You will only want to go in 1/2" so measure the bit and mark it with tape as a stop point



In this image you can see the original location below.





With the first 1/2" of the new hole cleared, you can now secure the motor to the rubber mounting point





This is your original hole(for more clarity of what it should look like)



With the sway bar relocated, the rubicon models are now ready for the bumper to be installed. If you are installing a winch, now would be a good time to install it on the bumper while you have easier access to the mounting plate. I would also recommend re-installing your grill at this time, because the tolerances are very close(if installing a winch) and you may not be able to place the grill on after.

When installing the bumper I inserted two bolts, on each frame rail, backwards through the frame. This helps hold your two spacer plates in place, and guide the bumper as you mount it.



If you have a stinger or D-rings you will also install them at this time. Lastly you place all of your bolts with the nut on the inside the bumper and torque it down



That's it, you have now installed your EVO 1/4 pounder bumper and relocated your factory sway bar motor.
 

Evilidea

New member
So my mechanically inept mind is confused. You took off the shrouds and vacuum pump but didnt put them back on? Shouds I understand no real nead for but isn't the vacuum pump for something? Also wondering what type of tool I need to buy for easiest cutting?
 
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MTG

Caught the Bug
So my mechanically inept mind is confused. You took off the shrouds and vacuum pump but didnt put them back on? Shouds I understand no real nead for but isn't the vacuum pump for something? Also wondering what type of tool I need to buy for easiest cutting?

He relocated the vacuum pump. It is in a separate write up.
 

Evilidea

New member
Ahh found it and was with him up through the first clip install but lost it on 2 nd clip prob need to have parts in front of me to understand so bookmarked both write ups as bumpers are my likely first mods once we get the jk
 

StrizzyChris

New member
Ahh found it and was with him up through the first clip install but lost it on 2 nd clip prob need to have parts in front of me to understand so bookmarked both write ups as bumpers are my likely first mods once we get the jk

To be honest my vacuum relocation was quite the Jerry-rig....but it works perfectly, and I don't think I'll ever need to address or change it. The second clip I made wraps up over, and back behind the old vacuum mounting location. Hard to explain and my pics kinda suck on that install. If you don't want to worry about it, you could always purchase a kit for the vacuum relocation that usually runs between $50-$125.
 

RedFox

New member
I'm going to be doing this soon, and by any chance would you know if the Sahara has the rubber hanger that the bolt goes through to hold the motor? I haven't been able to check because the jk in at the shop getting some kinks worked out.
 

StrizzyChris

New member
I'm going to be doing this soon, and by any chance would you know if the Sahara has the rubber hanger that the bolt goes through to hold the motor? I haven't been able to check because the jk in at the shop getting some kinks worked out.

No, you will skip the motor relocation step all together since a sahara does not have an automatic swaybar system.
 

RedFox

New member
No, you will skip the motor relocation step all together since a sahara does not have an automatic swaybar system.

Sorry, I must have said it wrong. I have a Sahara and just purchased a rubicon sway bar, so my question is in regard to installing the motor in a higher spot, not regarding the installation of the bumper.

I would like to know if the hangar for the motor is present in the Sahara as well for me to be able to mount the swaybar motor on my newly purchased rubi swaybar.
 

StrizzyChris

New member
my 07 Sahara did NOT have the hanger on it. Cant speak for any newer or other other models, but I wouldnt imagine Jeep would put them on anything other than the Rubicon. Even that small part, when placed on 1 million JK's(just happened) would cost a TON of extra cash on Jeeps behalf.
 

RedFox

New member
I just received and installed my rubicon swaybar and it turn out the hangar is attached to the swaybar assembly already. I didn't need it. Thanks for the heads up
 

StrizzyChris

New member
It came with your assembly? Did you buy it new from Mopar and it came with it or did you buy it used and the seller sent it as well? If the latter, then thats one hell of a seller! Either way, glad it worked out for you and you now can join the lazy swaybar crew :thumb:
 

RedFox

New member
I bought it from someone and the seller left the hanger attached for me. He said he was converting his setup into an ORO sway bar that will use air actuation. All I know is I'm loving my new setup and happy to simply turn a knob to lock and unlock the sway bar with my evo no limits knob. :thumb:
 

StrizzyChris

New member
To anyone who has ran this, or other, bumpers that eliminate the fog lights....what did you do with the wiring? Chop it off and electrical tape? Reuse it for some other lighting?
 

MTG

Caught the Bug
To anyone who has ran this, or other, bumpers that eliminate the fog lights....what did you do with the wiring? Chop it off and electrical tape? Reuse it for some other lighting?

Kept them. Tucked them into the bumper.

I am pretty sure FoxC used his stock fog lights as rock lights on the front by turning them around. Pretty slick.
 

RedFox

New member
I used the stock fog connections to wire up my KC fog lamps. I control them with the stock switch! :thumb: ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1372198768.289534.jpg
That's the only picture I have of the front for some reason, and it's an old one. But u get the idea.
 

StrizzyChris

New member
From my build thread, but I wanted to add it here to help with clean up the info flow

Also I have had a few questions about the swaybar relocation. I am terrible at descriptions so I used my crappy paint skills to help me. If you see in the pic below the #1 tab(original mounting location) on of the swaybar housing is thin. Its sole purpose is to attach as the anchor point of the housing to keep it from spinning freely. The #2 spot is a hole that has a bolt in it from the factory and holds the housing together. The reason you will need to drill this hole is because #1 hole bolt that you will now be inserting into the #2 hole has a short threaded section and the body of the bolt(In the circle) is larger. The larger bolt body will stop you from being able to thread it completely into the swaybar housing. By reaming the #2 hole by 1/2" this will allow you to thread the bolt in far enough to slip the un-threaded section in far enough to also secure the 2 parts of the housing together. (I hope this all makes sence)

swaybarrelocation.jpg


Edit: The hole is only to be tapped INTO the motor body by 1/2 inch, NOT with a 1/2 inch bit. I am not 100% sure on the size of the bit any more but an easy way to tell is take a small piece of wood and drill a hole into it that's JUST BARELY large enough to slip over the smooth body of the bolt. The first 1/2" of the smooth body/collar of the bolt will be resting 1/2" deep inside the body of the motor where you just "dilated" that hole. You do not need/want to retap that hole at all. Leave it as is after you clearance it for the body of the original bolt.
 
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