Sleeve or Chromoly shafts?

aaronstephen · May 19, 2013

Was curious as to what y'all think. I am in the process of beefing up my front D30 axle and was wondering if I could get away with just sleeving it for now with EVO 44 Magnums instead of new chromoly axle shafts?

Already have C Gussets.

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wayoflife · May 19, 2013

Totally different things designed to help prevent totally different breaks. Sleeves will not prevent an axle shaft from breaking and you are WAY more likely to break one than you are an axle housing.

paychex.308 · May 19, 2013

you also must decide what you want as your "weak" link? your axle shaft or your R&P? which is easier and less expensive to repair. adding chromo shafts to your 30 basically makes your R&P the weakest area and thus the area with the higher potential of breakage. I would get neither and save for a 44 of some sort. That is my opinion...

andrew -

gtony12 · May 19, 2013

paychex.308 said:
you also must decide what you want as your "weak" link? your axle shaft or your R&P? which is easier and less expensive to repair. adding chromo shafts to your 30 basically makes your R&P the weakest area and thus the area with the higher potential of breakage. I would get neither and save for a 44 of some sort. That is my opinion...

andrew -

I am going to run my D30 until it breaks then replace with the 44. Only going to add gussets to the C's on D30.

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aaronstephen · May 19, 2013

wayoflife said:
Totally different things designed to help prevent totally different breaks. Sleeves will not prevent an axle shaft from breaking and you are WAY more likely to break one than you are an axle housing.

I did not know this. I guess my assumption was that they would address the same issue. Thank you for your thoughts.

paychex.308 said:
you also must decide what you want as your "weak" link? your axle shaft or your R&P? which is easier and less expensive to repair. adding chromo shafts to your 30 basically makes your R&P the weakest area and thus the area with the higher potential of breakage. I would get neither and save for a 44 of some sort. That is my opinion...
andrew -

maybe I should start looking around for a used front 44 of a Rubi.

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Zechisan · May 19, 2013

This has been on my mind as well.. I'm thinking keep it to a moderate level of offroading, gussets, and on 35" tires until I find a dana44 to put up front..

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gtony12 · May 19, 2013

wayoflife said:
Totally different things designed to help prevent totally different breaks. Sleeves will not prevent an axle shaft from breaking and you are WAY more likely to break one than you are an axle housing.

I am just wondering if you break an axel what side and is more common. I was think of keeping a spare or have one for either side?

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robx251 · May 19, 2013

gtony12 said:
I am just wondering if you break an axel what side and is more common. I was think of keeping a spare or have one for either side?

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Only a guess but i would think the passenger side shaft where it is much longer and would be more prone to twisting due to its length.

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wayoflife · May 19, 2013

paychex.308 said:
you also must decide what you want as your "weak" link? your axle shaft or your R&P? which is easier and less expensive to repair. adding chromo shafts to your 30 basically makes your R&P the weakest area and thus the area with the higher potential of breakage. I would get neither and save for a 44 of some sort. That is my opinion...

andrew -

This is correct only IF you are running a gear ratio that is too high. On a Dana 30, a 5.13 will leave you with a pinion that is really small and then, there is merit to what you are saying. On a Dana 44, this would be true with a 5.38. If you go a size down, your r&p will still be stronger and I would highly recommend that you get a chromo shaft upgrade.

gtony12 said:
I am just wondering if you break an axel what side and is more common. I was think of keeping a spare or have one for either side?

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robx251 said:
Only a guess but i would think the passenger side shaft where it is much longer and would be more prone to twisting due to its length.

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The most common side for a break to occur is the DRIVER side. This is because it has LESS shaft to help absorb shock. This occurs so often that I often recommend that if you can only carry one shaft as a spare, that is the one you should carry. The passenger side can break too but, it's not as "common". Of course, this is to say nothing about breaks caused by u-joint failures. If you run chromoly shafts with full circle clips, you can prevent that from occurring.

aaronstephen · May 19, 2013

wayoflife said:
This is correct only IF you are running a gear ratio that is too high. On a Dana 30, a 5.13 will leave you with a pinion that is really small and then, there is merit to what you are saying. On a Dana 44, this would be true with a 5.38. If you go a size down, your r&p will still be stronger and I would highly recommend that you get a chromo shaft upgrade.

The most common side for a break to occur is the DRIVER side. This is because it has LESS shaft to help absorb shock. This occurs so often that I often recommend that if you can only carry one shaft as a spare, that is the one you should carry. The passenger side can break too but, it's not as "common". Of course, this is to say nothing about breaks caused by u-joint failures. If you run chromoly shafts with full circle clips, you can prevent that from occurring.

Eddie, what are your thoughts of 37's on a D30 with 4.56 gears? Assuming I have chromoly shafts.

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paychex.308 · May 19, 2013

wayoflife said:
This is correct only IF you are running a gear ratio that is too high. On a Dana 30, a 5.13 will leave you with a pinion that is really small and then, there is merit to what you are saying. On a Dana 44, this would be true with a 5.38. If you go a size down, your r&p will still be stronger and I would highly recommend that you get a chromo shaft upgrade

yes thank you for clarifying that as far as the gear is concerned. i have 5.13s so that is why i do not have chromos. but as soon as I have my 44s ( thank you Jason!!!) i will have chromos installed.

andrew -

NFRs2000NYC · May 19, 2013

wayoflife said:
This is correct only IF you are running a gear ratio that is too high. On a Dana 30, a 5.13 will leave you with a pinion that is really small and then, there is merit to what you are saying. On a Dana 44, this would be true with a 5.38. If you go a size down, your r&p will still be stronger and I would highly recommend that you get a chromo shaft upgrade.

The most common side for a break to occur is the DRIVER side. This is because it has LESS shaft to help absorb shock. This occurs so often that I often recommend that if you can only carry one shaft as a spare, that is the one you should carry. The passenger side can break too but, it's not as "common". Of course, this is to say nothing about breaks caused by u-joint failures. If you run chromoly shafts with full circle clips, you can prevent that from occurring.

Just so I don't waste a new thread on this question, do you feel that adding 4.56s to a D30 wouldn't weaken it significantly/at all? I'd like to regear for my 35s, but only if I don't compromise the strength on my R&P.

wayoflife · May 20, 2013

NFRs2000NYC said:
Just so I don't waste a new thread on this question, do you feel that adding 4.56s to a D30 wouldn't weaken it significantly/at all? I'd like to regear for my 35s, but only if I don't compromise the strength on my R&P.

On a Dana 30, I personally wouldn't go any higher than 4.88 if you're running a locker. That's a good ratio for 35's anyway. If you leave the front end open, 5.13 would be okay too.

NFRs2000NYC · May 20, 2013

wayoflife said:
On a Dana 30, I personally wouldn't go any higher than 4.88 if you're running a locker. That's a good ratio for 35's anyway. If you leave the front end open, 5.13 would be okay too.

I was going to go with 4.56s since mine is a 2012 auto and the 35s I want are a bit closer to 34s, so I figured that would be the best bet...488s seem a tad high no?

307214d1321989751-2012-jk-tire-size-gear-chart-6369520629_ff50dd30d1_b.jpg

I was also planning on a locker of some sort, and since you praised the Eaton Elocker for a D30, I was planning on maybe getting that one.

wayoflife · May 20, 2013

NFRs2000NYC said:
I was going to go with 4.56s since mine is a 2012 auto and the 35s I want are a bit closer to 34s, so I figured that would be the best bet...488s seem a tad high no?

Being that you have a 2012, yeah, I would think that 4.10's would be all that you need but, while you're at it, 4.56 would be a better way to go for 35's. Having said that, I just want to make sure that you are aware that any time someone like me refers to tire size, the ONLY thing we're referring to is what is written on the sidewall and NOT, what the actual measurement is. The only time "actual" tire measurement matters is when you're calibrating your speedo - that's it. So, having said that, are the tires you're looking at an advertised 35 (most measure about 33" or so) or a size taller that has an actual measurement closer to 34?

I was also planning on a locker of some sort, and since you praised the Eaton Elocker for a D30, I was planning on maybe getting that one.

Whoa, wait a minute, I don't ever recall giving praise to the Eaton E-Locker, a True-Trac limited slip yes but not a locker.

rtguy1 · May 20, 2013

Whoaaaaa.....:cheesy:

I too think 4.56 would work well for 35's on a '12. Enough for wheeling and not too high for the daily grind. I have 4.88 with 37's on an auto '12 it works well. Higher (5.13) would have been better for wheeling and straight power but since I put so many miles on my rig on the highway I compromised.

aaronstephen · May 20, 2013

wayoflife said:
This is correct only IF you are running a gear ratio that is too high. On a Dana 30, a 5.13 will leave you with a pinion that is really small and then, there is merit to what you are saying. On a Dana 44, this would be true with a 5.38. If you go a size down, your r&p will still be stronger and I would highly recommend that you get a chromo shaft upgrade.

The most common side for a break to occur is the DRIVER side. This is because it has LESS shaft to help absorb shock. This occurs so often that I often recommend that if you can only carry one shaft as a spare, that is the one you should carry. The passenger side can break too but, it's not as "common". Of course, this is to say nothing about breaks caused by u-joint failures. If you run chromoly shafts with full circle clips, you can prevent that from occurring.

Eddie, what do you think of these shafts? http://www.quadratec.com/products/26125_1008_07.htm

wayoflife · May 20, 2013

aaronstephen said:
Eddie, what do you think of these shafts? http://www.quadratec.com/products/26125_1008_07.htm

So long as you really do get full circle clips as is shown in the photo, they will do just fine. I would call and verify as much before placing your order as I have seen on more than one occasion where the photo used is generic and what is ultimately sent is standard c-clips.

aaronstephen · May 20, 2013

wayoflife said:
So long as you really do get full circle clips as is shown in the photo, they will do just fine. I would call and verify as much before placing your order as I have seen on more than one occasion where the photo used is generic and what is ultimately sent is standard c-clips.

will do. Thanks for the advice

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sacax · May 20, 2013

Hi Eddie!

Would you happen to know if the 4.10 would be enough for 35's but on a diesel engine (not saying with 0 power loss but minor to non detectable for the average driver)? the 2.8 l one that is for europe... I guess the torque being different, right? Just to be sure...

Thanks!

Sleeve or Chromoly shafts?

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