Add-Ons questions

bruggymonster

bruggymonster

Member
Frydaddy said:
Sorry BruggyMonster, i have been ignoring this thread cause i thought you were still on the first topic. But I do have a comment on the rear light wiring (from two months ago, wow) If you want to prevent your reverse lights from coming on with the switch, you could wire it just a bit differently. Add a diode on the line from the reverse light (1N4001 should work)

If soldering diodes isnt your thing, Leave the reverse signal for the coil (85 and 86 to ground), wire +12v to 87, the lights to 30, and your switch to 87A. This now requires the switch to take the load of the lights, but with LEDs these days, its no trouble.

View attachment 252971

Edit: The 1N4001 can only handle 1A, here are some other options.
(1N5401 3.5A), (SR540 5A), There are also automotive type diodes that look like blade fuses.
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I am going to be honest and say that I have very little knowledge about wiring things besides just typical negative goes to negative and positive goes to positive. haha
 
bruggymonster

bruggymonster

Member
bruggymonster said:
So I think it is time to finally order new driveshafts as I am planning on taking a trip up to Canada in the next few weeks and do not want to tear a boot that far away from home. I am either going to order an Adams or a JE Reel. My question to you guys is, what is the best option company wise? I know I want 1350's but what exact set of driveshafts should I get? I know one of the companies has a "heavy duty" version or something along that line. What are the differences, pros and cons? And finally, do I need to direct call the company and give them measurements of something or can I just order them from quadratec or likewise website? Thanks guys!
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I forgot to mention, I have a 2013 JKUR with a 4" EVO enforcer lift and 37" tires.
 
bruggymonster

bruggymonster

Member
bruggymonster said:
So I think it is time to finally order new driveshafts as I am planning on taking a trip up to Canada in the next few weeks and do not want to tear a boot that far away from home. I am either going to order an Adams or a JE Reel. My question to you guys is, what is the best option company wise? I know I want 1350's but what exact set of driveshafts should I get? I know one of the companies has a "heavy duty" version or something along that line. What are the differences, pros and cons? And finally, do I need to direct call the company and give them measurements of something or can I just order them from quadratec or likewise website? Thanks guys!
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Anyone? [emoji51]


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VeruGE*144

VeruGE*144

Caught the Bug
bruggymonster said:
Anyone? [emoji51]


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If you buy 1350's from Adams, they will contact you to give them measurement. At least they contacted me. It's easy to get that number.
I have them front and rear.
You might have to adjust the caster on the rear axle, so the driveshaft will be inline with the pinion, that is really how the rear should be set up, at least from I learned here. Mine is out a little, but I am upgrading to long adjustable arms soon and I'll be able to fix this little issue. It's not out a whole lot and I've been running it like this for about 6 months, I didn't drive it much though. I don't have any driveline vibrations either. But I am stressing out about that all the time.
Adams gives you lifetime warranty on welds and if you happen to twist the shafts within itself due to torque. They don't cover damage due to bad angles though.
They offer two different 1350 shafts. With grease-able u joints or non greasable u joints. I think they claim you can run up to 40" tire with greaseble and up to 44" tire with non greasable, or something like that, I am not really sure, look it up on their website.
I went with greasable because I like to lay under my jeep a lot lol. Between front and rear driveshaft I have 11 grease fittings and I have to take out 1 bolt on the t case side to be able to get to one of the fittings. There is also two different style fittings, regular zerk and needle zerk.
Some people on here say that non greasable unjoints are better, but I really like to lay under my jeep with a grease gun [emoji41]
 
bruggymonster

bruggymonster

Member
Anyone have a good recommendation on full Jeep covers? I was looking at Quadratec's 3 layer one for only $70 or their 5 layer one for $100. I'm fine with paying $100 for a quality cover but what is the difference between the 5 and 3 layer? Also should I just scrap this idea and go with a different brand?
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
JKbrick

JKbrick

Active Member
bruggymonster said:
Any certain one that you recommend? Or could I rent one from auto zone or something?


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I can look and see if it has a brand name on it, I believe it came from Summit Racing. Will get a part # or screenshot for you. Not sure if auto zone rents them or not. If you don't plan on doing more than your own I guess I would rent or borrow one. I just buy tools because I love to help people out and I work on quite a few Jeeps in the area for fun


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bruggymonster

bruggymonster

Member
JKbrick said:
I can look and see if it has a brand name on it, I believe it came from Summit Racing. Will get a part # or screenshot for you. Not sure if auto zone rents them or not. If you don't plan on doing more than your own I guess I would rent or borrow one. I just buy tools because I love to help people out and I work on quite a few Jeeps in the area for fun


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That would be great thanks! If I can't rent one from autozone, I'll probably buy one from amazon for cheap.


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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Some of them have a universal bolt pattern. Also, if you can weld, you can build one with scrap steel. Or even have a welding shop build you one.
 
JK_Dave

JK_Dave

Caught the Bug
bruggymonster said:
I'm about to order a set of Adams 1350 non greasable driveshafts, will I need any other tools besides a basic mechanics set for the install?


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You'll need new pinion nuts as well. Consider those "single-use" as the threads stretch on installing. I think you can get a new one for $5 or so (cheap insurance).

Make sure you read up on the install. If you screw it up, you can either over tighten your crush sleeve in the diff, which requires a total tear down to replace or you under-tighten and your pinion nut comes loose, leaks all your diff fluid and fries your locker and destroys your gears. (Don't ask me how I know about that second scenario :grayno:)
 
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