E Locker wiring

mauijim

mauijim

New member
Finally getting my lockers wired up after swapping axles to some Rubicon axles. The harness coming from each axle is approximately a ft long and has 4 wires. Does anyone know which of the 4 wires is power and ground? My jk is a sport and I have power to my rocker switches. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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Frydaddy

Frydaddy

New member
Two of the wires are for switching, and the other two are to indicate a successful lock state.

Looks like YL/LB and DB/YL is the indicator and YL/DR and BK is the locker solenoid.
lockerswitch.gif
 
mauijim

mauijim

New member
Frydaddy said:
Two of the wires are for switching, and the other two are to indicate a successful lock state.

Looks like YL/LB and DB/YL is the indicator and YL/DR and BK is the locker solenoid.
View attachment 260480
Click to expand...

Thanks, so I take it the YL/DR and BK are the colors of the wires I need to get the locker to lock? lol... sry I'm horrible at wiring diagrams. Does it matter which one is hot and which one is neg?


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Frydaddy

Frydaddy

New member
mauijim said:
Thanks, so I take it the YL/DR and BK are the colors of the wires I need to get the locker to lock? lol... sry I'm horrible at wiring diagrams. Does it matter which one is hot and which one is neg?

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Click to expand...


With a second look, I think the locker color is YL/OR, probably yellow with an orange stripe.

Most of the time, polarity does matter. Solenoids and switches typically don't care. But just to be sure, and prevent other possible issues, try to wire it according to the diagram.
Solenoid Hot is YL/OR, Yellow with orange stripe
Solenoid Ground is BK, black
Sense Neutral is YL/LB, Yellow with light blue? (Brown?) stripe
Sense NO (Normally Open) is DB/YL, Dark blue? (Brown?) with a yellow stripe

You say your rocker switches already have power. That will make wiring pretty easy, but i must make this note. Make sure the load (the locker solenoid) is not drawing more power than your wiring/switch/fuses can handle.
 
mauijim

mauijim

New member
Frydaddy said:
With a second look, I think the locker color is YL/OR, probably yellow with an orange stripe.

Most of the time, polarity does matter. Solenoids and switches typically don't care. But just to be sure, and prevent other possible issues, try to wire it according to the diagram.
Solenoid Hot is YL/OR, Yellow with orange stripe
Solenoid Ground is BK, black
Sense Neutral is YL/LB, Yellow with light blue? (Brown?) stripe
Sense NO (Normally Open) is DB/YL, Dark blue? (Brown?) with a yellow stripe

You say your rocker switches already have power. That will make wiring pretty easy, but i must make this note. Make sure the load (the locker solenoid) is not drawing more power than your wiring/switch/fuses can handle.
Click to expand...

Perfect that's what I needed. I have the painless performance trail rocker setup and I'll check that, thank you very much [emoji482][emoji1303]


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Frydaddy

Frydaddy

New member
mauijim said:
Perfect that's what I needed. I have the painless performance trail rocker setup and I'll check that, thank you very much [emoji482][emoji1303]
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Click to expand...

You can check the locker solenoid out yourself.

Set your multimeter to amps and move the positive lead over to the "A" plug. Attach the solenoid ground to your battery, attach your solenoid positive lead to the negative lead of the multimeter, attach the positive lead of the multimeter to the battery. This is your solenoid steady state draw.

Inductors give out a spike in reverse power when they are turned off. But if this is ever an issue, any half decent engineer (hopefully Fiat/Chrysler) will install a flyback diode on the solenoid itself.
 
J

JKDream

Guest
This is becoming way more confusing than it needs to be. You're putting Rubicon axles in a sport/sahara correct? There's only one plug you need to use, and it's a positive and ground.

There is a two prong connector on top of the differential, this is the power.

The sensor on the side of the differential (towards the pinion) is a sensor. You do NOT need this. It is to have your dash light activate when you engage the locker. Your switch light does the same thing, and a LOT easier.

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mauijim

mauijim

New member
JKDream said:
This is becoming way more confusing than it needs to be. You're putting Rubicon axles in a sport/sahara correct? There's only one plug you need to use, and it's a positive and ground.

There is a two prong connector on top of the differential, this is the power.

The sensor on the side of the differential (towards the pinion) is a sensor. You do NOT need this. It is to have your dash light activate when you engage the locker. Your switch light does the same thing, and a LOT easier.

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Click to expand...

Thank you that's what I like... easy... lol... well I'll be doing this tomorrow. Thanks everyone for the help


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J

JKDream

Guest
mauijim said:
Thank you that's what I like... easy... lol... well I'll be doing this tomorrow. Thanks everyone for the help


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Click to expand...

Let me know if you have any questions, I did the swap fairly recently (and will be doing again with my PR44).
I think based on your original post you might have the wrong harness btw.
The correct Mopar Part is: P5155359. It's just the two prong activation plug.
You CAN find connectors that will work without it, but I'd suggest going this route for reliability.

Another note: They are not polarity specific. It does not matter which plug is hot and ground for the top connector.
 
R

rockwell

Member
Frydaddy said:
Two of the wires are for switching, and the other two are to indicate a successful lock state.

Looks like YL/LB and DB/YL is the indicator and YL/DR and BK is the locker solenoid.
View attachment 260480
Click to expand...

Thanks for the diagram. Going to ARBs in my Rubicon and am going to wire them into the existing switches (via Rubicon relays) and install some relays for the 'locked' symbol.
 
mauijim

mauijim

New member
JKDream said:
Let me know if you have any questions, I did the swap fairly recently (and will be doing again with my PR44).
I think based on your original post you might have the wrong harness btw.
The correct Mopar Part is: P5155359. It's just the two prong activation plug.
You CAN find connectors that will work without it, but I'd suggest going this route for reliability.

Another note: They are not polarity specific. It does not matter which plug is hot and ground for the top connector.
Click to expand...

I haven't bought a harness yet. I was talking about the factory harness that was on the Rubicon axles that I bought and they have the 2 plugs and inside the harness that's cut at around 12" are the 4 wires. But I see what you're saying. I can get that harness and plug it in the top and direct wire to my rocker switch. That's kinda what I thought from the beginning but wanted to throw it out there and ask the pros . Thanks everyone, I'll let you know how it goes. [emoji1303][emoji41][emoji482]


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