GM 14 Bolt front and rear swap
- Thread starter RageKage
- Start date
RageKage
Member
Now correct me if I’m wrong, but theoretically I can just remove the tubes on both axles and make whatever size tubes I want and then can set up the ends and brackets to meet my needs. But obviously with custom tubes comes custom shafts, which if I can use premade shafts and then make tubes to match that should make it easier. I feel like I’m overthinking this process. If I ditch everything but the diffs I’m essentially just starting with the beginning of a builder axle.... does that make sense to anyone?
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Speedy_RCW
Hooked
In way oversimplified terms yes. Lol. Do you have access to a large press, lathe, etc. to do it right you’re gonna need access to machine equipment. And then there’s the fact you have to get the old tubes out of the pumpkin and C’s which will be a chore. Do you plan to reuse the front C’s? If you plan to retube the rear you’ll need to install new flanges and spindles, weld those in, machine them down, etc. This is a serious project dude. For shafts, yes custom or find something that is the right length off the shelf.
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RageKage
Member
I think the heat is getting to me over here lol. I’m just spouting out random thoughts, half of which prolly don’t make any logical or financial sense. I understand regardless of how I go about this it’s gunna be a project, just trying to find the right avenue of approach.
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Speedy_RCW
Hooked
Personally I think you should ditch that front and pick up a superduty D60. That will save you a ton of headache. I get the axle was free and all but no one knows if it will even fit under the jeep once you put all that work and money into it. The SD axle can be had for $500 or less and it’ll save you way more than that in the long run. I’d stay away from retubing anything. Don’t take any of that the wrong way, it’s just my opinion and you’re obviously free to do whatever you want. I do think it would be pretty badass if you got that front to work though.
Also, did you mark those carrier bearing caps before you took them off?
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Also, did you mark those carrier bearing caps before you took them off?
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RageKage
Member
RageKage
Member
I hate to throw away the front, but I think you’re right. Even at $500 for one I have a feel it’s going to cost a lot more than that to get everything to fit properly. Especially since the diff is in the wrong position. Yes I made sure to mark the driver side so I know which goes where and I also have everything laid out based on which side of the axle it came off of.
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RockinAZJK
Caught the Bug
Following along, it’ll be cool to see you do this. I had a buddy build tons in his garage a few years back but it took him forever and he took his Jeep apart for like 2 years
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RageKage
Member
Well, I emailed Artec industries to ask if they’re new apex truss would work for the rear and whattaknow.... it won’t because the diff has no ribs. Not a complete deterrent but definitely as bummed as the apex truss has all the bracketry as a single piece just drop on and weld. Back to the drawing board I guess. There’s gotta be something for an ‘85 14bolt to go in a JK...
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QuicksilverJK
Caught the Bug
Artec JK6111 is listed as a basic, pretty universal jk bracket kit. It should work on nearly any axle. Unfortunately it takes more time and care when placing them to insure everything functions properly. They really did make things easy for people with that new apex kit though.
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Speedy_RCW
Hooked
Bummer. Can you measure between those flanges on the ends of the axle tubes? There are so many different widths on these axles I can’t keep it straight.
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RageKage
Member
Yea the basic kit should work. I was just hoping to be able to use the simplicity of the APEX truss. Less room for error. But not a big issue, just gunna have to measure 10 times and weld once lol
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RageKage
Member
If the flange you mean is the mounting bracket for the brake drum then flange to flange is 54 5/8”
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QuicksilverJK
Caught the Bug
If that’s the case then according to this diagram you aren’t gonna have enough room to properly space the brackets.
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Speedy_RCW
Hooked
I dunno man. That’s gonna be extremely tight to get the upper control arm brackets in there. I built one of the new wider housings for a JK and those brackets were out as wide as they could possibly go and that was still more narrow than factory. The ribbed housing 14b is about 58” between flanges which is very close to the factory JK rear. With your housing being 4” narrower I’d be concerned about the upper control arms having clearance issues with the frame during articulation. I suppose you could get around that by doing a 3 link setup in the rear which would eliminate the UCA mounts at each end of the axle. As I mentioned before, trying to retube that axle would be a bear and in my opinion, can’t be done properly without access to specialty tools.
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RageKage
Member
What if I cut the ends off and just welded more tube on each end? That might come with the cost of new shafts, and the end price of that would prolly be the same if not a little more than just getting a newer 14b. I definitely am not trying to switch to a 3 link set up. I like the set up I have now and want to keep cost and modification as low as possible. I mean yes a 1 ton swap is already a big mod in itself. The whole start of this was because the axles basically we’re laying around and I was hoping I could make these axles work for less than the cost of Dynatrac’s trail ready package. I don’t do anywhere near the type of wheeling to “NEED” 1 tons but figured if I could get them for near the same price why not. But it seems like that might be to no avail. But it is what it is. I haven’t spent any money on anything yet so I’m not upset about it just bummed cuz I think these free axles are going to require a lot more work and fabrication than they’re worth.
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Speedy_RCW
Hooked
People have done it that way. You’d cut the tube somewhere between the pumpkin and the flange, then sleeve it and put a longer piece of tubing in to widen the axle. I wouldn’t recommend you do it that way. In addition to that being a failure point, you’d have to make damn sure everything is perfectly straight and doesn’t warp when welding which would be unlikely without access to a true-bar. Going to 1 tons is a costly project even with junkyard axles. Sit down and make a list of all the parts you’d need to build the axles and get the jeep on the road. Don’t forget to include things like steering, wheels, tone rings/brackets, bearings, etc. Then add some fat to that. You’ll see it isn’t cheap by any means. Especially if you’re trying to build custom axle housings.
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