Dynatrac ProFloat XD60™ Axle

Sharkey · Nov 17, 2019

Dynatrac ProFloat XD60™ Axle

Exodus Jeeps said:
I know it’s hard for most to imagine, but when spending $25k on an engine swap this is a much more manageable option than dropping another $13k+ on axles. We actually do have a lot of customers that want nothing more than 35’s or 37’s on their JK’s after the LS swap, so this is a great option for them.
...

I get it, but that seems bassackwards to me. First, spending $25k on an LS swap to run 35’s seems a bit stupid to me personally, although I’m sure others will disagree. When I’m at the point of spending $25k on a motor swap, the rest of my rig would already be built up (including the axles) to turn heavy rubber. That is, of course, unless I was doing it all at once in which case an extra $13k for the difference in strength would be well worth the price of admission.

I’m pretty sure I helped part out the Jeep from Eddie’s pic of the high speed roll (off of a highway) due to the SF failure and I’ve had a beer or two with the owner a few times. $13k is worth not going through what he went through. Nothing is bombproof and nothing is perfectly safe, but this just doesn’t seem like an area to be pinching pennies when high horsepower, high speed (in part from having high end suspensions), or heavy rubber is involved.

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Exodus 4x4 · Nov 17, 2019

TrailHunter said:
All 1/2 ton trucks run Semi-Float and some are rated to tow in the 12k range... (not that I agree towing that much with a 1/2 ton). And don't know the dynamics of rolling weight forces vs the force of crawling on rocks though... Just an observation. I think it comes down to knowing the limitations of your wallet and wheeling accordingly.

Agreed. I only use the Raptor as reference because we’ve personally worked on them and the rear axle shaft assemblies are nothing like the Jeep axle assemblies. Much more robust. The PF axle shaft and bearings resemble them though, and as mentioned I’ve seen my buddies abuse the Raptor axles without any type of failure. At least not the shafts anyways...

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wayoflife · Nov 18, 2019

desertrunner said:
I definitely understand that it's stronger than the traditional SF60 but if you need the strength of a FF axle in the rear doesnt that mean you need it in the front too? Seems like an odd thing to have 1 and not the other. Maybe the v8 swap market is needing more rear and strength but if you have the money for that why not go FF. idk it's cool that they are developing new things but I don't really see where this axle fits for the jeep realm. Maybe I'm just missing it but if I ever ditch my 35 spline D44 rear it's gonna be full float

In my opinion, yes. If you really feel the need to upgrade your rear axle to something stronger, you really should be upgrading the front as well. In the 12 years of building up and wheeling 4 JK's, I can tell you that a factory rear axle is all that you need to run 37's. In fact, Dynatrac doesn't even bother making a ProRock 44 rear because they believe this as well. It is why they have offered ProRock 44 axle packages that only come with new rear shafts. IF the idea of this axle is to run 40's, you really should be running 5.38 gears and again, while a 60 can handle that, a 44 can NOT. As it is, the ProRock 44 uses a JK gear and it's smaller than a JL 44. On the JL/ JT Experience, Synergy blew out their front 5.38 gears and they were just running 37's. You do not want to cheap out to run 40's and you really don't need something like this to run 37's.

Exodus 4x4 · Nov 18, 2019

Sharkey said:
I get it, but that seems bassackwards to me. First, spending $25k on an LS swap to run 35’s seems a bit stupid to me personally, although I’m sure others will disagree. When I’m at the point of spending $25k on a motor swap, the rest of my rig would already be built up (including the axles) to turn heavy rubber. That is, of course, unless I was doing it all at once in which case an extra $13k for the difference in strength would be well worth the price of admission.

I’m pretty sure I helped part out the Jeep from Eddie’s pic of the high speed roll (off of a highway) due to the SF failure and I’ve had a beer or two with the owner a few times. $13k is worth not going what he went through. Nothing is bombproof and nothing is perfectly safe, but this just doesn’t seem like an area to be pinching pennies when high horsepower, high speed (in part from having high end suspensions), or heavy rubber is involved.

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I don’t disagree and if a person can afford it, then absolutely go full float. The reality is though, there’s a lot of difference between $7k and $13k. Last time I checked it was $6k. That’s not chump change. Truthfully, a Jeep with a V8 and 35’s or 37’s is a whole lot more fun to daily drive than one with 40’s, so I wouldn’t be so quick to dismiss it. I actually have a lot more customers interested in that type of setup than I do the 40’s.

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wayoflife · Nov 18, 2019

Sharkey said:
I get it, but that seems bassackwards to me. First, spending $25k on an LS swap to run 35’s seems a bit stupid to me personally, although I’m sure others will disagree. When I’m at the point of spending $25k on a motor swap, the rest of my rig would already be built up (including the axles) to turn heavy rubber. That is, of course, unless I was doing it all at once in which case an extra $13k for the difference in strength would be well worth the price of admission.

I’m pretty sure I helped part out the Jeep from Eddie’s pic of the high speed roll (off of a highway) due to the SF failure and I’ve had a beer or two with the owner a few times. $13k is worth not going what he went through. Nothing is bombproof and nothing is perfectly safe, but this just doesn’t seem like an area to be pinching pennies when high horsepower, high speed (in part from having high end suspensions), or heavy rubber is involved.

And to that point, I think it's important to note that Ken was only running 38" tires and with a wimpy ass 3.8L. In other words, you don't need to be running big horse power or 40's to break a high quality semi-float 60 shaft.

Also, the $13k is what it would cost to get both a ProRock 44 front and ProFloat 60 rear axle. If you were to just get the ProFloat 60, you'd be shelling out $6900. By contrast, a full float UD60 only costs $5400. As in, it actually costs LESS and comes with MASSIVE ROTORS AND BRAKES that make the ones on the ProFloat look puny. If you were to get both front and rear UD60's, you'd only be looking at $14k.

OverlanderJK · Nov 18, 2019

wayoflife said:
And to that point, I think it's important to note that Ken was only running 38" tires and with a wimpy ass 3.8L. In other words, you don't need to be running big horse power or 40's to break a high quality semi-float 60 shaft.

Also, the $13k is what it would cost to get both a ProRock 44 front and ProFloat 60 rear axle. If you were to just get the ProFloat 60, you'd be shelling out $6900. By contrast, a full float UD60 only costs $5400. As in, it actually costs LESS and comes with MASSIVE ROTORS AND BRAKES that make the ones on the ProFloat look puny. If you were to get both front and rear UD60's, you'd only be looking at $14k.

Isn’t the PR80 only like $7,000?

And didn’t Dynatrac stop making the trail 60 a couple years ago? Why would they stop make one and wait years to start making another? I just don’t see a market for this and feel like Dynatrac is moving farther away from what they actually believe in. Bummer for sure.

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JKbrick · Nov 18, 2019

wayoflife said:
And to that point, I think it's important to note that Ken was only running 38" tires and with a wimpy ass 3.8L. In other words, you don't need to be running big horse power or 40's to break a high quality semi-float 60 shaft.

Also, the $13k is what it would cost to get both a ProRock 44 front and ProFloat 60 rear axle. If you were to just get the ProFloat 60, you'd be shelling out $6900. By contrast, a full float UD60 only costs $5400. As in, it actually costs LESS and comes with MASSIVE ROTORS AND BRAKES that make the ones on the ProFloat look puny. If you were to get both front and rear UD60's, you'd only be looking at $14k.

The only downfall is you have to add wheels to that too. It really is unattainable for a lot of people, myself included, to spend $16 to $18 on upgrades to a toy. I’m not crying about it just admitting I’ll never have UD 60s

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wayoflife · Nov 18, 2019

OverlanderJK said:
Isn’t the PR80 only like $7,000?

And didn’t Dynatrac stop making the trail 60 a couple years ago? Why would they stop make one and wait years to start making another? I just don’t see a market for this and feel like Dynatrac is moving farther away from what they actually believe in. Bummer for sure.

Fully optioned out like you'd need, it's more like $8700.

The cool thing about the Trail 60 is that it was essentially Dynatrac's first entry in the Jeep axle world. When he introduced it at EJS way back in the day, everyone laughed and questioned who would ever want or need something so big and stout. Jim was a visionary and proved everyone wrong. That's the guy I met and have respected for years. As time went on, he developed the ProRock 60 and then the ProRock 80 and this in spite of the fact that more and more guys were turning to junkyard axles. When it comes to 44's, nobody can hold a candle to the ProRock44 or at least, in my opinion. Being the best of the best is what Dynatrac was all about. This thing... this feels more like a big step backwards. I just don't get it. I might be more inspired if I actually saw CODE 1 or CODE X hitting the trails and putting them to the test but I know neither are running one and honestly, can anyone recall when was the last time either hit the trails?

wayoflife · Nov 18, 2019

JKbrick said:
The only downfall is you have to add wheels to that too. It really is unattainable for a lot of people, myself included, to spend $16 to $18 on upgrades to a toy. I’m not crying about it just admitting I’ll never have UD 60s

You're right, we are talking about toys here and unless you're planning on running a V8 and or 40's, I see no good reason to spend any money on any kind of axle upgrade especially when money is a concern. This is the point I've been trying to make all along. For 37" tires, your factory rear will be more than enough and Dynatrac themselves have been pushing this for years.

fiend · Nov 18, 2019

wayoflife said:
You're right, we are talking about toys here and unless you're planning on running a V8 and or 40's, I see no good reason to spend any money on any kind of axle upgrade especially when money is a concern. This is the point I've been trying to make all along. For 37" tires, your factory rear will be more than enough and Dynatrac themselves have been pushing this for years.

What if anything is the weak spot of a stock 44 rear running 37s?

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wayoflife · Nov 18, 2019

fiend said:
What if anything is the weak spot of a stock 44 rear running 37s?

Assuming you're not being factious, the shafts bending would be the main weak spot. However, a good set of chromoly shafts should help prevent this and most of them come with good warranties that will cover it. Again, a bent flange is a bummer but not the end of the world. Depending on what gear ratio you're running, that would be a weak spot as well. Keep your ratio to 5.13 or lower and you will be better off. Quality control on the plug welds have been an issue especially on some of the 2012-up JK's. In some cases, I have seen where this can allow for the tubes to spin but this can be addressed before it's an issue. If you play EXTREMELY hard, the tubes themselves can bend but there are a whole host of trusses that are available for it now.

TrailHunter · Nov 18, 2019

wayoflife said:
....If you were to just get the ProFloat 60, you'd be shelling out $6900. By contrast, a full float UD60 only costs $5400.

That's a $1500 difference... There's your new wheels. (If the math is that simple and there aren't other hidden costs with the FF UD60)

wayoflife · Nov 18, 2019

TrailHunter said:
That's a $1500 difference... There's your new wheels. (If the math is that simple and there aren't other hidden costs with the FF UD60)

The problem would be that your front axle would still be running a 5x5 bolt pattern and the rear would now have 8 lug. If it were me, I would just get 2 new wheels in an 8 lug and then keep my front wheels and run spacers as that'll help make up the width difference anyway. That would save even more money. However, assuming you're wanting to run 40's, you'd still need to pay for a front end regear and it WILL be your weak point.

fiend · Nov 18, 2019

Dynatrac ProFloat XD60™ Axle

wayoflife said:
Assuming you're not being factious, the shafts bending would be the main weak spot. However, a good set of chromoly shafts should help prevent this and most of them come with good warranties that will cover it. Again, a bent flange is a bummer but not the end of the world. Depending on what gear ratio you're running, that would be a weak spot as well. Keep your ratio to 5.13 or lower and you will be better off. Quality control on the plug welds have been an issue especially on some of the 2012-up JK's. In some cases, I have seen where this can allow for the tubes to spin but this can be addressed before it's an issue. If you play EXTREMELY hard, the tubes themselves can bend but there are a whole host of trusses that are available for it now.

I wasn’t being facetious. Just interested in your perspective on it. I did chromoly shafts and have been running 5.13s even though 5.38s would be better though weaker. I did find that the lower control arm mounts take a huge beating, so boxed them in with some weld in skid plates. Everything seems to be holding up so far.

Thanks.

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Sharkey · Nov 18, 2019

Exodus Jeeps said:
I don’t disagree and if a person can afford it, then absolutely go full float. The reality is though, there’s a lot of difference between $7k and $13k. Last time I checked it was $6k. That’s not chump change.

wayoflife said:
Also, the $13k is what it would cost to get both a ProRock 44 front and ProFloat 60 rear axle. If you were to just get the ProFloat 60, you'd be shelling out $6900. By contrast, a full float UD60 only costs $5400. As in, it actually costs LESS and comes with MASSIVE ROTORS AND BRAKES that make the ones on the ProFloat look puny. If you were to get both front and rear UD60's, you'd only be looking at $14k.

So for only $1k more than a PR44/PF60 combo you can get FF60’s? Maybe I’m missing something, but WTF?!?

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Sharkey · Nov 18, 2019

Dynatrac ProFloat XD60™ Axle

JKbrick said:
The only downfall is you have to add wheels to that too. It really is unattainable for a lot of people, myself included, to spend $16 to $18 on upgrades to a toy.

Look at your build sheet. Pretty sure you have already spent close to that upgrading your toy. [emoji106]

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Exodus 4x4 · Nov 18, 2019

Sharkey said:
So for only $1k more than a PR44/PF60 combo you can get FF60’s? Maybe I’m missing something, but WTF?!?

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Nah, I never said I’d buy a PR44 and PF combo. That math doesn’t add up. I think this would suit the guy that’s probably been running an aftermarket 44 for a while and then drops a V8. Now he just needs a bigger ring and pinion.

I’ll also add that no matter what anyone’s opinion is on this, it all comes down to what someone wants and what they can afford. I wouldn’t push this axle on anyone, but If they walk through my door and have their mind made up on it, then that’s what they’ll get.

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wayoflife · Nov 18, 2019

Sharkey said:
So for only $1k more than a PR44/PF60 combo you can get FF60’s? Maybe I’m missing something, but WTF?!?

Nope, you're not missing a thing. So, here's another option and one that we've run in the past - you could get a full float ProRock 60 rear axle with a 5x5.5 bolt pattern. That only costs about $7200 - basically, just $300 more than a ProFloat 60. Of course, the benefit of going this route is that you get a full float rear and you can run 5x5 to 5x5.5 wheel adapters up front. That will help you even up your stance and allow you to run the same wheels front and rear. Sure, you still have to get "new wheels" but if you sell your old wheels, you can help offset your total cost and by quite a bit. At least, that's what we did on Rubicat back in the day.

TrailHunter · Nov 18, 2019

Dumb Question... what do ultra 4's run in KOH? SF or FF?

jdofmemi · Nov 18, 2019

TrailHunter said:
Dumb Question... what do ultra 4's run in KOH? SF or FF?

Haven't you heard, IFS is the new rage in Ultra 4

Dynatrac ProFloat XD60™ Axle

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