Mounting Beadlocks?? Need some help

WiscoHR

Member
Roger that, thanks. I’ve watched your video about twenty times to try and capture all the subtleties.


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Getting the wheels into the Coopers is definitely a pain in the ass. The other issue I ran in to was getting the bead to stay against the lip on the front of the bead lock to mount the ring. Every time I would get to the end the other side would pop up. Here is the trick I used for that. Lightly tighten some 2 inch washers down as you go around the bead. It saved me a lot of time with mine.

IMG_1153.JPG


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dytrdr5

New member
Getting the wheels into the Coopers is definitely a pain in the ass. The other issue I ran in to was getting the bead to stay against the lip on the front of the bead lock to mount the ring. Every time I would get to the end the other side would pop up. Here is the trick I used for that. Lightly tighten some 2 inch washers down as you go around the bead. It saved me a lot of time with mine.

View attachment 315916


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That’s a great idea, I used some clamps to hold the bead on mine when I was doing them. The Maxxis Razrs also have that issue where the bead just pops off when you’re almost done


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Getting the wheels into the Coopers is definitely a pain in the ass. The other issue I ran in to was getting the bead to stay against the lip on the front of the bead lock to mount the ring. Every time I would get to the end the other side would pop up. Here is the trick I used for that. Lightly tighten some 2 inch washers down as you go around the bead. It saved me a lot of time with mine.

View attachment 315916


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Great to know, not sure I would have thought of that one. Thanks.


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Weebz

Caught the Bug
LMAO. I did the same thing when mounting mine except I used some old shock rubber bushings so it didn’t unnecessary scratch the rim. I also found with mounting the Cooper tires you can’t start trying to get it set at too much of an angle. If you do all the thumping, jumping, cursing and tears won’t get it on. The flatter the better
 
LMAO. I did the same thing when mounting mine except I used some old shock rubber bushings so it didn’t unnecessary scratch the rim. I also found with mounting the Cooper tires you can’t start trying to get it set at too much of an angle. If you do all the thumping, jumping, cursing and tears won’t get it on. The flatter the better

Roger that, the flatter the better. I haven't tried tears yet but that could be next. I picked up some Ruglyde Lub today, I'll give that a try in a bit. Reinforcements are on the way too.

What would be wrong with using the Hi lift between the bumper and the tire to force it down over the wheel? Put the wheel on the ground and push the tire down over it. Sort of the opposite of using the jack to break the bead. If you used it against a 4x4 laid across the tire it might work. Anyone ever try that?
 
What would be wrong with using the Hi lift between the bumper and the tire to force it down over the wheel? Put the wheel on the ground and push the tire down over it. Sort of the opposite of using the jack to break the bead. If you used it against a 4x4 laid across the tire it might work. Anyone ever try that?

For the record that doesn’t work, we tried it and the tire just collapsed, tried turning it over and pushing down on the wheel too. Same thing, the tire collapses before the wheel pops in. On to plan C.


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jdofmemi

Active Member
Sometimes things need a hammer.

A dead blow hammer may help, and the soft face won't mar up the wheel on the misses.
 

CalSgt

Hooked
4167_fig_a.jpg

Be sure that you are mounting a 17" tire on a 17" rim, they could have shipped you one different.

Also make sure the bead of the tire gets pushed into the drop center when mounting, if not you may never get it on. Always mount the tire from the side of the rim closest to the drop center. Two others have said this in different ways but I figured a picture might help.

We used to use tire spoons with nylon covers when working aluminum wheels in the tire shop I worked at as a kid, I looked on amazon & couldn't find anything except little tiny ones used on bicycle wheels. But if you can find something that can be used as a spoon or lever that won't mar, ding, or gouge your new rims you could get it started then work the bead down with spoons taking small bites each time... if that makes sense...
 

wibornz

New member
I could not find a local tire place to install the bead lock wheels. I did find one that would mount them and let me put the ring on. Even with a tire machine it was a pain. They charged me 60 dollars and it took about two hours. With two guys helping me. They earned their money. I brought them back a pizza.
 

CalSgt

Hooked
I could not find a local tire place to install the bead lock wheels. I did find one that would mount them and let me put the ring on. Even with a tire machine it was a pain. They charged me 60 dollars and it took about two hours. With two guys helping me. They earned their money. I brought them back a pizza.


Did they get the front bead pushed down into position for that amount? If so i would guess $60 would be reasonable, it took me two days to do all five of mine but it was honestly about two hours for the first one and an hour & 15 min for each of the others. And a stoved up back after being hunched over all that time.
 

TheGrendel

Active Member
Getting the wheels into the Coopers is definitely a pain in the ass. The other issue I ran in to was getting the bead to stay against the lip on the front of the bead lock to mount the ring. Every time I would get to the end the other side would pop up. Here is the trick I used for that. Lightly tighten some 2 inch washers down as you go around the bead. It saved me a lot of time with mine.

View attachment 315916


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this is genius. that was the hardest part for me. getting the last part to set and slip back up.
 
View attachment 315968

Be sure that you are mounting a 17" tire on a 17" rim, they could have shipped you one different.

Also make sure the bead of the tire gets pushed into the drop center when mounting, if not you may never get it on. Always mount the tire from the side of the rim closest to the drop center. Two others have said this in different ways but I figured a picture might help.

We used to use tire spoons with nylon covers when working aluminum wheels in the tire shop I worked at as a kid, I looked on amazon & couldn't find anything except little tiny ones used on bicycle wheels. But if you can find something that can be used as a spoon or lever that won't mar, ding, or gouge your new rims you could get it started then work the bead down with spoons taking small bites each time... if that makes sense...

Roger that, I double checked the measurements and I have the correct wheels and tires. Thanks for the drawing, I’m headed in the right direction.


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Jkzinger

Caught the Bug
View attachment 315968

Be sure that you are mounting a 17" tire on a 17" rim, they could have shipped you one different.

Also make sure the bead of the tire gets pushed into the drop center when mounting, if not you may never get it on. Always mount the tire from the side of the rim closest to the drop center. Two others have said this in different ways but I figured a picture might help.

We used to use tire spoons with nylon covers when working aluminum wheels in the tire shop I worked at as a kid, I looked on amazon & couldn't find anything except little tiny ones used on bicycle wheels. But if you can find something that can be used as a spoon or lever that won't mar, ding, or gouge your new rims you could get it started then work the bead down with spoons taking small bites each time... if that makes sense...

These are beadlocks so they are a little different. They can only go into the tire one way. Heading over there tomorrow night to help out. You just gotta brute force them on.


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zimm

Caught the Bug
I tried and failed to mount mine. I tried everything I could. Notice the tire jammed half way on? I even hi-lifted the tire sidewall and lifted the jeep up. I resorted to a 4" pry bar and with the liquid soap lubing everything, it flew out and nearly clocked me in the face.

Here's the "load of shame" after I borrowed a trailer and drug the mess to the 4x4 shop. $500 in labor and they were done. An hour per wheel @ $100/hr. I know, ouch, but I was out of options. I'm dreading replacing them.
 
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jesse3638

Hooked
Just curious if you got them mounted.

I guess it must be the tire and wheel combo, because I had no trouble when I mounted mine. 45 mins for the first and about 30 mins for the others. I'm running Raceline Monsters and BFG KM2's 35x12.5x17. I plan on going to Coopers when I replace so we'll see how that goes.

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Ddays

Hooked
Just curious if you got them mounted.

I guess it must be the tire and wheel combo, because I had no trouble when I mounted mine. 45 mins for the first and about 30 mins for the others. I'm running Raceline Monsters and BFG KM2's 35x12.5x17. I plan on going to Coopers when I replace so we'll see how that goes.

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From what I've seen, its the Coopers. The E sidewalls are a mother. I watched Mel's video where he basically throws the wheel into the tire and Viola!
Uh-huh, yeah no. Ain't happening with the Coops. I think I pm'd Eddie 10 times trying to figure out what in the hell I was doing wrong. They are just a bitch. There's a sweet spot angle that once you find it they'll pop on, but not without a fight.
 
I found the same thing with the 37 x 13.5 Coopers. It took two of us to get the wheels inside the tires. One stomping on the wheel and the other prying with a flat bladed pry bar. It took about 30 minutes a tire once we figured out it was possible. I’m thinking the cool weather may have something to do with it. But the stiff sidewalls of the E are the main reason for the pain in the ass. I’m guessing the same sidewalls are why so many guys that run them love the tire.


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