Basic Do-it-Yourself Jeep JK Wrangler Front End Alignment
- Thread starter wayoflife
- Start date
VeruGE*144
Caught the Bug
They come in threes..... One more to go.
Basscat
Member
So I’ve read most of this thread and have a quick question. RE: Caster; Given 6 degrees of separation on a stock set up with 4.2 + being optimal and 10 degrees of separation on a PR44 Unlimited with 6.0 + being optimal does the inclusion of geometry correction brackets with the PR44 Unlimited result in taking optimum caster back to factory spec of 4.2 +?
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WJCO
Meme King
It could. But most likely it would increase the caster more that what the PR has. Some of the brackets have multiple holes for caster adjustment. If the arm is a fixed length, moving it directly down in a geometry correction bracket, will twist the axle increasing the caster. However if the bracket hole isn't directly under the OEM mount hole and it's further back to accommodate the length of the arm, the caster could stay the same. To the best of my knowledge, the bracket is more designed to bring the lower arms more parallel with the road rather than deal with caster.
The difference of axle separation really isn't all that important if you just want to know what your caster angle is. Caster can still be measured on either axle whether you have brackets or not.
Basscat
Member
Appreciate the quick input. Was thinking similarly. It’s an AEV correction bracket (part of a 3.5” lift) on a 2013 JKU I got for my son. Adjustable front uppers are included. Would prefer to take correction brackets out and go with 6+ caster on the PR44 Unlimited but was curious if I left the brackets in would I then need to target 4+ on caster.
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PokerStogey
Member
This right here...
Just another reason WAL sits at the top, great info. Just finished the flip kit for the EVO stage 1 last night and will be reading this again. Thanks Eddie!!!
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Just another reason WAL sits at the top, great info. Just finished the flip kit for the EVO stage 1 last night and will be reading this again. Thanks Eddie!!!
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mrriverajr
New member
Best write up ever!!!
Setting Your Toe-In
Contrary to what you might think, your front wheels do not sit parallel to each other. In fact, if you were to look straight down on them, they would be sitting with the front of your tires pointing ever so slightly inward. This is called a "toe-in" and, on a rear wheel drive vehicle, it is set this way on purpose to help keep your Jeep driving straight and give your tires a more even wear.
Unlike the TJ before, the steering system on a JK does not have the tie-rod connected to the drag link and therefore, the toe-in setting will not be effected with the installation of a lift. Needless to say, an adjustment to your toe will be required. Having said that, if you've installed a new tie-rod or bent your factory one on a rock, this write-up will help you to set it back to where it needs to be.
1. Park on level ground and then with the help of a friend, measure the width between the fronts of your front tires and then compare it to the width of the back of your front tires. It is important to use the exact same measuring point front and back in order to get an accurate reading. If your tires still have a mold seam, this is a good point to measure from. Or, if you have a toe-in alignment tool (can be purchased at Harbor Freight for about $20), that will give you the most accurate measurements.
2. Start up your engine, turn your wheels both ways fully and then straighten your steering wheel. Using a 15mm socket, loosen the nut securing the adjuster clamp on tie rod as shown in this pic.
3. Firmly grab the tie-rod’s knurled adjuster and rotate it a little bit at a time taking measurements along the way. If you're Jeep sees a lot of water, mud or salt, you may find it necessary to spray down the threads with some penetrating oil and use a pair of vicegrips to help turn the adjuster. Ideally, you'll want to have approximately 1/16" of toe-in. You should not exceed 1/8" as anything more than that will be too much and that'll your tires to wear poorly.
4. Once your toe-in has been set, use a 15mm socket to re-tighten the nut securing your Jeep JK Wrangler’s tie-rod clamp. Tighten this nut to 45 ft. lbs. of torque and make sure that the tie-rod does not move while doing this.
Getting this front end dialed
2008 jku on 35's
Metal cloak lift. 3.5" gave me 4.2"
Front end steer smart except metal cloak track bar (will be replacing it with a yeti adjustable track bar).
Yeti track bar relocater.
Red neck ram 1.5 hydro assist.
Problem: Was driving ok then started wondering in the last week or so. Drops into highway shoulders and delays more turning to the left than the right. Not nearly as steady as it was a few weeks ago and even then it was just acceptable.
Question: I had a shop tell me that I need to extend my front wheels with lower and upper control arms (equally) then set the caster.
Does that sound right? I have been in the jeep game for 5 years and I still havent dialed my front end yet....I'm still a noob but learning.
Anybody think that sounds right or complete bs?
I'm getting ready to adjust my caster. Last time i checked it was 4.5 degree angle and i have a 4.2 lift metal cloak which i know folks here call it a medal joke.
2008 jku on 35's
Metal cloak lift. 3.5" gave me 4.2"
Front end steer smart except metal cloak track bar (will be replacing it with a yeti adjustable track bar).
Yeti track bar relocater.
Red neck ram 1.5 hydro assist.
Problem: Was driving ok then started wondering in the last week or so. Drops into highway shoulders and delays more turning to the left than the right. Not nearly as steady as it was a few weeks ago and even then it was just acceptable.
Question: I had a shop tell me that I need to extend my front wheels with lower and upper control arms (equally) then set the caster.
Does that sound right? I have been in the jeep game for 5 years and I still havent dialed my front end yet....I'm still a noob but learning.
Anybody think that sounds right or complete bs?
I'm getting ready to adjust my caster. Last time i checked it was 4.5 degree angle and i have a 4.2 lift metal cloak which i know folks here call it a medal joke.
Well, wandering at highway speeds is typically a caster issue but if you've already got 4.5°, you should be fine. If I could guess, you more than likely have a loose component like a drag link tie rod end at the pitman arm or at the knuckle or maybe even a track bar bolt and that's allowing things to shift around. Of course, a loose track bar would give you death wobble so you can probably rule that out.
WJCO
Meme King
Steer Smarts sucks. Your lower control arms position the axle in the wheel wells and then your uppers adjust caster. Your upper need to be the same length as each other. And your lowers need to be the same length as each other. But all four won't be the same length.
It is possible that you can extend the lowers and set your axle position and caster without having to even mess with the uppers at all.
Ahhhh!!! Learning as I go.
Ok. Point noted.
Well I'll run these steer smarts till I see the light then replace them with....something that doesnt suck. I'll figure that out another time.
Thanks for the knowledge. Its valuable.
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thegreatwhitenorth
New member
Hey guys,
I have a similar setup as this guy so I cut pasted this to start with.
I ll get pics and info measurement this wk and see if they have one of those scales at Walmart.
Wanted to start asking some questions as I have read bout half the thread.
First time posting here, have posted on wrangler forum before and like it there/wanted your guys knowledge on his stuff, so I post what I know for now.
2 door rubicon
2.5 Mc springs with 1.0 spacer in front (3.5/2.5 lift)
Falcon shocks 2.1 so I got the shocks that were 2.5-3.5 lift and think they are too long, not for right now but for where I should be, going to get the 0-2 lift shocks when I get reservoirs but want to make sure I am good for future.
Right now, I have grease sprayed out of boot? I guess and haven’t heard those noises yet/or any from drive shaft that way of life guy mentioned I thread earlier. So I want to find out exactly what to do so I do it right in the spring.
Normal Jeep dealership garage said it’s fine for now when on road showed me both drive shafts are close/angle is there when fulling drooped because I have shocks that are too long/then I should.
So I want to get/try the 2.0 mopar springs and get front uppers, only have front lowers so I can adjust he caster to 4.5/1.5 That is what I need right? Front uppers to get it to 4.5? I am limited with only front lowers and because I have 2.5 Mc springs and 1.0 tf front spacers and a lightweight Jeep setup I ended up with that and that’s as far as the front lowers will get the caster? Sound right?
That’s what I want to go to, not ready to get adjustable reservoirs yet, but want to know exactly what to do for driveshaft. I am good with Adams and donot have local places to get driveshaft from like you guys do. Should I get the 1350 or 1310. Read elsewhere 1310 is plenty and good to have as your weakest link since being easiest to fix? That right? Can you guys talk me into the 1310 or the 1350 to help me out in this, knowing what springs and stuff I got and want to go to next spring.
Thanks.
I am not getting larger then 35s I have 34.0 x 11.5 Nittos trails now and like that size. Want overkill for gear to have a wicked 2.0 mopar with 34s. Just want it to be tight handle well and look cool.
thegreatwhitenorth
New member
I am guessing the 3.5 caster is maxed out as that’s as far as front lowers go.
Would the 2.5 pin be better for now u til I get, more right sized shock lengths, or doesn’t matter and I can go ahead and get front uppers and set caster to 4.5
I want to get driveshaft figured out so I k ow what to do when ready or need to because it starts making those noises way of life guy said/donot know people names yet. Then this spring if driveshaft still holding up get 2.0 mopar springs, front uppers/adjust to 4.5, other.
Getting front brake line ext, they were pulled at droop and added length to rear axle brea5her as that was off.
Would the 2.5 pin be better for now u til I get, more right sized shock lengths, or doesn’t matter and I can go ahead and get front uppers and set caster to 4.5
I want to get driveshaft figured out so I k ow what to do when ready or need to because it starts making those noises way of life guy said/donot know people names yet. Then this spring if driveshaft still holding up get 2.0 mopar springs, front uppers/adjust to 4.5, other.
Getting front brake line ext, they were pulled at droop and added length to rear axle brea5her as that was off.
Attachments
thegreatwhitenorth
New member
Guess people haven’t posted here in a awhile.
thegreatwhitenorth
New member
Looking for some help from you guys who have good info.
thegreatwhitenorth
New member
Looking for some help from you guys who have good info.
I posted my stuff in the posts above.