Exodus 4x4
New member
Or Synergy adjustable ball joints. I’ve been really impressed so far.
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Dynatrac ProFloat XD60™ Axle
- Thread starter jorgelrod
- Start date
Or Synergy adjustable ball joints. I’ve been really impressed so far.
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JKbrick
Active Member
fiend
Caught the Bug
XD 60 Pro Float axle
Intrigued. I ran a set of the old synergy design. Lasted about two years with 37s and some hard wheeling. Hopefully the new design is more robust.
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Intrigued. I ran a set of the old synergy design. Lasted about two years with 37s and some hard wheeling. Hopefully the new design is more robust.
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danford.lau
Caught the Bug
How much mileage ? I’m running synergies too and have about 17k on them . Half of 35s and half on 37s
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fiend
Caught the Bug
I don’t know. Not a lot. I only have 78k and it’s a 2010. So maybe 15k.
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LOL!! Either you guys are on all on drugs or I just stepped into an alternate reality where the words "semi-float" axle shaft and "good" are actually used in the same sentence. I mean, I suppose the next thing I'm gonna hear is that AMC 2-piece axle shafts and Dana 35 C-clips are all the rage! That is of course, so long as the word "Pro" is used to describe them!
While a bent axle flange is a real bummer, you know what else is a bummer??
How about being left high and dry when your semi-float shaft breaks on the trail.
Or having to get towed home on a flatbed after clipping a concrete block wall and breaking a semi-float shaft.
Or getting sent to the hospital with a broken neck after breaking a semi-float shaft and rolling 4 times into a ditch at 70 mph.
Unlike a full-float axle that carries the weight of your Jeep on the axle housing leaving your shafts to just move your Jeep forward and back, a semi-float shaft has to do both. As in, if you break a shaft, the above examples WILL happen to you. In fact, the reason why I chose NOT to cover this new axle at SEMA is because I genuinely think they're a terrible idea. Even if these new shafts were the next best thing since sliced bread, there really is no need for one especially if you're just gonna run 37's. Now, if you're wanting one so that you can run 40's, the gear ratio you really NEED to be running are 5.38's and while the 60 can handle it, a 44 cannot. Hell, the JL 44 gears are bigger than the JK ones and Synergy still managed to break theirs on the JL/JTX and they were just running 37's.
If you're hell bent on running a 60 with your existing PR44, please do yourself a favor, save your money and buy a full float PR60. If you have neither and are wanting to run 40's, may I suggest you look into a set of Dana UD60's as they are about the same cost as a PR44 and this new ProFloat 60.
In spite of what some of you may choose to believe, I'm just trying to give you solid advice and based on my limited experience.
While a bent axle flange is a real bummer, you know what else is a bummer??
How about being left high and dry when your semi-float shaft breaks on the trail.
Or having to get towed home on a flatbed after clipping a concrete block wall and breaking a semi-float shaft.
Or getting sent to the hospital with a broken neck after breaking a semi-float shaft and rolling 4 times into a ditch at 70 mph.
Unlike a full-float axle that carries the weight of your Jeep on the axle housing leaving your shafts to just move your Jeep forward and back, a semi-float shaft has to do both. As in, if you break a shaft, the above examples WILL happen to you. In fact, the reason why I chose NOT to cover this new axle at SEMA is because I genuinely think they're a terrible idea. Even if these new shafts were the next best thing since sliced bread, there really is no need for one especially if you're just gonna run 37's. Now, if you're wanting one so that you can run 40's, the gear ratio you really NEED to be running are 5.38's and while the 60 can handle it, a 44 cannot. Hell, the JL 44 gears are bigger than the JK ones and Synergy still managed to break theirs on the JL/JTX and they were just running 37's.
If you're hell bent on running a 60 with your existing PR44, please do yourself a favor, save your money and buy a full float PR60. If you have neither and are wanting to run 40's, may I suggest you look into a set of Dana UD60's as they are about the same cost as a PR44 and this new ProFloat 60.
In spite of what some of you may choose to believe, I'm just trying to give you solid advice and based on my limited experience.
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
^^that
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Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE
Exodus 4x4
New member
XD 60 Pro Float axle
The old style wasn’t all that, but the new adjustable seem legit. We’ve installed a few set and adjusted them to spec. They feel way better than the old non-adjustable ball joints.
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The old style wasn’t all that, but the new adjustable seem legit. We’ve installed a few set and adjusted them to spec. They feel way better than the old non-adjustable ball joints.
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Exodus 4x4
New member
I ain’t gonna knock it. Hell its more reliable than the 3.6, just underpowered.
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TrailHunter
Hooked
rubiDave
Active Member
Shit. Now I'm afraid to drive.
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LOL!! Either you guys are on all on drugs or I just stepped into an alternate reality where the words "semi-float" axle shaft and "good" are actually used in the same sentence. I mean, I suppose the next thing I'm gonna hear is that AMC 2-piece axle shafts and Dana 35 C-clips are all the rage! That is of course, so long as the word "Pro" is used to describe them!
While a bent axle flange is a real bummer, you know what else is a bummer??
How about being left high and dry when your semi-float shaft breaks on the trail.
Or having to get towed home on a flatbed after clipping a concrete block wall and breaking a semi-float shaft.
Or getting sent to the hospital with a broken neck after breaking a semi-float shaft and rolling 4 times into a ditch at 70 mph.
View attachment 337915
View attachment 337916
Unlike a full-float axle that carries the weight of your Jeep on the axle housing leaving your shafts to just move your Jeep forward and back, a semi-float shaft has to do both. As in, if you break a shaft, the above examples WILL happen to you. In fact, the reason why I chose NOT to cover this new axle at SEMA is because I genuinely think they're a terrible idea. Even if these new shafts were the next best thing since sliced bread, there really is no need for one especially if you're just gonna run 37's. Now, if you're wanting one so that you can run 40's, the gear ratio you really NEED to be running are 5.38's and while the 60 can handle it, a 44 cannot. Hell, the JL 44 gears are bigger than the JK ones and Synergy still managed to break theirs on the JL/JTX and they were just running 37's.
If you're hell bent on running a 60 with your existing PR44, please do yourself a favor, save your money and buy a full float PR60. If you have neither and are wanting to run 40's, may I suggest you look into a set of Dana UD60's as they are about the same cost as a PR44 and this new ProFloat 60.
In spite of what some of you may choose to believe, I'm just trying to give you solid advice and based on my limited experience.
Sent from my SM-G965U1 using WAYALIFE mobile app
wjtstudios
Hooked
LOL!! Either you guys are on all on drugs or I just stepped into an alternate reality where the words "semi-float" axle shaft and "good" are actually used in the same sentence. I mean, I suppose the next thing I'm gonna hear is that AMC 2-piece axle shafts and Dana 35 C-clips are all the rage! That is of course, so long as the word "Pro" is used to describe them!
While a bent axle flange is a real bummer, you know what else is a bummer??
How about being left high and dry when your semi-float shaft breaks on the trail.
Or having to get towed home on a flatbed after clipping a concrete block wall and breaking a semi-float shaft.
Or getting sent to the hospital with a broken neck after breaking a semi-float shaft and rolling 4 times into a ditch at 70 mph.
View attachment 337915
View attachment 337916
Unlike a full-float axle that carries the weight of your Jeep on the axle housing leaving your shafts to just move your Jeep forward and back, a semi-float shaft has to do both. As in, if you break a shaft, the above examples WILL happen to you. In fact, the reason why I chose NOT to cover this new axle at SEMA is because I genuinely think they're a terrible idea. Even if these new shafts were the next best thing since sliced bread, there really is no need for one especially if you're just gonna run 37's. Now, if you're wanting one so that you can run 40's, the gear ratio you really NEED to be running are 5.38's and while the 60 can handle it, a 44 cannot. Hell, the JL 44 gears are bigger than the JK ones and Synergy still managed to break theirs on the JL/JTX and they were just running 37's.
If you're hell bent on running a 60 with your existing PR44, please do yourself a favor, save your money and buy a full float PR60. If you have neither and are wanting to run 40's, may I suggest you look into a set of Dana UD60's as they are about the same cost as a PR44 and this new ProFloat 60.
In spite of what some of you may choose to believe, I'm just trying to give you solid advice and based on my limited experience.
Couldn’t agree more. For all those reasons and after experiencing some of the short comings of running a SF 60, not to those catastrophic degrees, I’ve ordered a set of Fusion FF axles to move the Jeep up onto 40s on.
2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
JKbrick
Active Member
wjtstudios
Hooked
Probably should start a build thread for that one too now.
2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
WJCO
Meme King
Indeed. Cant wait to see it. How long should it take Fusion to build the axles?
Holy Hell!!! ...That's it... I'm staying on 35's.
LOL - I think you've missed the point I was trying to make. "Bending" a flange isn't necessarily a bad thing. It's a bummer for sure but depending on what shafts you're running on your factory Dana 44, you should be able to get it covered under warranty. A shaft that doesn't bend can break. NONE of the examples I showed were of factory axles.
Honestly, I think you made the right choice. There's no substitution for a full float and if you're gonna run 40's, they're what you really should be running them on.
LOL - I think so and I look forward to following it :thumb:
TrailHunter
Hooked
So are you suggesting to stick with factory rears... so at least you are warned by the bend? Pass on the chromoly?
cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
If your gonna stay semi float on 37’s or less get a good chromoly axle shaft that will warranty a bent flange like revolution or ten factory. I believe carbon might warranty a bent flange as well. Plus these chromoly shafts are stronger than factory.
What I'm saying is that if all you're going to do is run 37's, I would save your money and just stick with your factory rear axle. I WOULD recommend chromoly shafts if your factory flanges are bent and really, just because they can typically be had for less. Trust me, IF you play hard enough, you'll still bend Chromoly shafts.
IF you're wanting to run 40's, you really should be upgrading BOTH your front and rear axles. EVEN IF a ProRock 44 housing can take the beating of 40's, the ring and pinion will NOT especially if you're running the correct gear ratio. Of course, this is to say nothing about the front shafts and u-joints and wheel studs being so small or anything else.