Paint Protection

What trailhunter said...
Exactly what I do.
Maybe once a year I’ll go off the deep end and do a full blown detail. Otherwise it’s quick detail sprays and waxes.
 
You’re talking about your work truck right? Why do you need to wash the Jeep with 38 miles on it in 8 months? Lol


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lol
Yep. And the other cars.
The Jeep desperately needs paint correction and a waxing. It used to be parked indoorsish (barn) but now it’s been outside getting beat up just parked. Wanna buy it?
 

jesse3638

Hooked
I’ve had a professional ceramic coating applied to one of my cars. Pretty sure all they did was charge me a lot of money. I saw zero difference.

Now I do it myself. I don’t play with ceramics though cause cancer scares me and most at home stuff is really really nasty shit you don’t want to breath or touch.

Clay bar, paint correct if needed, sealant, wax. In that order. Usually takes an entire day.

I like chemical guys products and their “jet seal” seems to last a long time.

If you only do one thing. Clay bar your vehicle. A lot of guys go straight to wax or sealants without truly getting their vehicle clean. Then are not happy with the results thinking they got ripped off with a cheap wax.

This is the route I go. I did this to our water tender last year and it still holding up great. it's was 11 years old and parked outside all year long. Wash, gray clay bar, V34 polish, V36 polish, jet seal, then butter wet wax. That wax is so easy to apply and remove its almost as quick as a spray wax. Jet seal also works well when doing a full headlight restoration (Sand, polish, protect).
 

Brute

Hooked
lol
Yep. And the other cars.
The Jeep desperately needs paint correction and a waxing. It used to be parked indoorsish (barn) but now it’s been outside getting beat up just parked. Wanna buy it?

Need to fund your JT?...

Are you selling your Anvil at a discount due to only 3 shocks?
 

highoctane

Caught the Bug
I had my Charger Hellcat coated in Cquartz Finest ceramic coating. One thing about ceramic coatings. You really need to do a good paint correction (is removing swirls and blemishes in the paint) because a ceramic coating can make the imperfections more noticeable. A good quality coating will last you a few years in you maintain the coating correctly. I used a product called Reload. Another key to making it last is not touching the paint, by that I mean using a foam cannon and pressure washer to wash, and dry using an blow gun on your air hose if you have a good compressor, or just a plain old leaf blower. By avoiding contact with the paint you’ll avoid damaging the paint, and you’ll allow the hydrophobic effects of a good ceramic coating to do their thing.


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JKbrick

Active Member
I had my work truck ceramic coated and it is guaranteed for 7 years so we will see how long it lasts, it definitely helps me keep it cleaner because the dirt doesn’t seem to stick to it. Now with it being white can you tell it’s coated? I doubt it. My advice is don’t let them do your windshield. They did mine and I don’t like that


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WJCO

Meme King
Wow. Lots of good feedback. Thanks. So we did a wash, clay bar, then this mequiars ceramic spray wax. I did the original coating method, then rinsed it off and went ahead and did a 2nd coating and rinsed off. Looks just like any other waxed vehicle. Hopefully it will last longer. We shall see.

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WJCO

Meme King
Clay bar, paint correct if needed, sealant, wax. In that order. Usually takes an entire day.

I like chemical guys products and their “jet seal” seems to last a long time.

If you only do one thing. Clay bar your vehicle. A lot of guys go straight to wax or sealants without truly getting their vehicle clean.

One thing I have learned is that proper prep of the paint allows the waxes and sealants to hold and last longer.

Wash, gray clay bar, V34 polish, V36 polish, jet seal, then butter wet wax. That wax is so easy to apply and remove its almost as quick as a spray wax. Jet seal also works well when doing a full headlight restoration (Sand, polish, protect).

What is the difference between a sealant and wax? I thought they were the same thing.
 

Spazbyt

Hooked
I found that compound with a random orbit polisher works faster then clay bars and less elbow grease. The random orbit polisher is so I dont cut the clear coat unless I concentrate in one spot. I normally follow that up with a spray wax but this summer I tried F11. Its basicly a spray wax or a detailer wax only more expensive. So after a month or so I have been unimpressed with F11 and will be going back spray wax. 20190908_095511.jpg 20190908_095357.jpg

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jesse3638

Hooked
I found that compound with a random orbit polisher works faster then clay bars and less elbow grease. The random orbit polisher is so I dont cut the clear coat unless I concentrate in one spot. I normally follow that up with a spray wax but this summer I tried F11. Its basicly a spray wax or a detailer wax only more expensive. So after a month or so I have been unimpressed with F11 and will be going back spray wax. View attachment 334459 View attachment 334460

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Clay bar is a step which should be used after a wash before beginning the polishing you mentioned above. Claying the car before polishing removes embedded contaminates from the paint. By not claying the car before polishing it can lead to swirl marks and paint damage. Realistically claying a car can be done in about 10-20 mins. Also to prevent noticeable swirl marks washing, drying, claying, waxing (application and removal) should be done in a back and forth motion not circular. Yes polishing alone will give you good results but not the best and can leave your paint unprotected if done incorrectly. I also see you are using a rubbing compound. Every time you polish a vehicle you are removing micro layers of paint and clear coat. Rubbing compound is the most aggressive of compounds usually. So use this too often and you will be down to bare paint with no clear left. A fine polishing compound would probably be safer for more frequent applications. There is a reason a good detailer does things in steps and will take 4+ hours and charges upwards of $300 for a full paint correction. Bentac1 had a full detail done to his last black jeep before he sold it and I know it cost him a pretty penny, but when all was said and done it looked damn near new.
 
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Spazbyt

Hooked
Clay bar is a step which should be used after a wash before beginning the polishing you mentioned above. Claying the car before polishing removes embedded contaminates from the paint. By not claying the car before polishing it can lead to swirl marks and paint damage. Realistically claying a car can be done in about 10-20 mins. Also to prevent noticeable swirl marks washing, drying, claying, waxing (application and removal) should be done in a back and forth motion not circular. Yes polishing alone will give you good results but not the best and can leave your paint unprotected if done incorrectly. I also see you are using a rubbing compound. Every time you polish a vehicle you are removing micro layers of paint and clear coat. Rubbing compound is the most aggressive of compounds usually. So use this too often and you will be down to bare paint with no clear left. A fine polishing compound would probably be safer for more frequent applications. There is a reason a good detailer does things in steps and will take 4+ hours and charges upwards of $300 for a full paint correction. Bentac1 had a full detail done to his last black jeep before he sold it and I know it cost him a pretty penny, but when all was said and done it looked damn near new.

I agree that clay would be helpful before a wax or polish but I don't see it necessary before compound. As I mentioned I was using a random orbit polisher not a rotary buffer so the amount of clear coat removal is negligible. This also eliminates the potential for swirl marks because of its random movements as opposed to the strictly circular movement of a polisher. I should have also mentioned that I'm lucky if I do this once a year so this is not something I recommend doing every month. basically this is a lazy mans clay job with minor scuff removal built in.
 

WJCO

Meme King
So we're going to try out this shit tomorrow: McGuiar's Hybrid ceramic wax. Supposedly has ceramic molecules in it. It's gotten great reviews at a much cheaper price. I'll post a review tomorrow and follow up in a few months.

View attachment 334274

So today we went through a couple wet mud holes. Nothing thick, but muddy water all over the Jeep. Along with that, we spent about 20 miles on dirt/dust. Jeep was filthy. When we got home, we pressure-washed it, and it all came off and the Jeep looks good as if we had done a hand wash. Pretty surprising because normally when we use the pressure washer, as soon as the Jeep dries, the mud stains are still there. After a few snows, we'll try again without reapplying the wax and see what happens. But so far, I'm convinced this product works better than a typical hand wax.
 

MericaMade

Active Member
So today we went through a couple wet mud holes. Nothing thick, but muddy water all over the Jeep. Along with that, we spent about 20 miles on dirt/dust. Jeep was filthy. When we got home, we pressure-washed it, and it all came off and the Jeep looks good as if we had done a hand wash. Pretty surprising because normally when we use the pressure washer, as soon as the Jeep dries, the mud stains are still there. After a few snows, we'll try again without reapplying the wax and see what happens. But so far, I'm convinced this product works better than a typical hand wax.

That's good to know. I been meaning to get a wax on the jeep. I will look into this stuff you mention.
 

WJCO

Meme King
We decided to just stick with the ceramic spray wax for now. It works fine . If in a few months, I'm not happy with it, I'll report back. It's easy to apply and definitely does something.

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