Jimmypaget
Member
Not getting a rubicon, all these grab handles I know have in a box under the seat, my HID lights but have since got a refund for, my fender cut (I am going to go narrower soon), and getting a 50" light bar.
regrets?
- Thread starter olram30
- Start date
TrainWreck618
Caught the Bug
Dual steering stabalizer..
Jimmypaget
Member
Oh and not going out much anymore. I really need to use my jeep to its potential and not have it parked all the time. It craves dirt and rocks!!
Mike_JK_Houston_711
New member
Reinforcing a Dana 30 before getting a pro rock 44. 35s before 37s a year later. Quadracrap winch...the list could go on. But I'm happy with where I'm at today 
Thunder
Member
Not exactly a regret, but every time I see those EVO builder corners, I wish I had bought them instead of the regular corner skins.
But if I had bought the builder corners and was getting pulled over all the time because of no fender, then I might have regretted that after a while. :thinking:
But since it doesn't rain in SoCal anymore, I might not be getting pulled over all that much. :idontknow:
Knowing how much work it would be to switch, it's unlikely to ever happen.
But if I had bought the builder corners and was getting pulled over all the time because of no fender, then I might have regretted that after a while. :thinking:
But since it doesn't rain in SoCal anymore, I might not be getting pulled over all that much. :idontknow:
Knowing how much work it would be to switch, it's unlikely to ever happen.
holliewood61
New member
Fender exit headers on the cj. They were bad ass for a couple days, until i took it wheelin. They take a beating off road, and I am constantly battling cracks and leaks that suck air and throw off my efi. Ill be going back to manifolds and inside the frame exhaust this winter. I have no choice with plans to boat side.
Aztecdiver
New member
Poison spider body mount tire carrier. I love the design and concept of it being angled for better departure angle. However, the t handle lock broke months into its use. Also, while FOLLOWING THE DIRECTIONS, i mounted the driver side mount where the handle lovks and while tightening it, the mount caved in the body. No caution at all in directions.
Gravedigger11
New member
Rough country driveshaft. Smittybuilt winch. Broke my front driveshaft at windrock and the smittybuilt winch didn't pull real well when it broke. However I have not been regretful upon building up my Dana 30. I have done stuff built rubis and one ton builds do
Clifford33
Caught the Bug
Wow I'm glad I didn't get one I'm building mine but built it like the Evo and genright latch
@chuck_slayton
New member
Selling my '01 TJ, should have just parked it in the garage!
USMC Wrangler
New member
Standby for a long one...
So I officially have one and they are called Ruffstuff rear control arms. Now I know why the rear uppers I picked up from CL were only $100, “like new, in the box”. That’s $180 cheaper than buying them new and I should’ve known better right then!
They are 18.5” at their shortest and it caused a couple problems. First the pinion angle was way off.
I literally could not bolt up the trackbar because the springs were pushed back so far! So I ordered the RS lowers in hopes that would solve the issue. While waiting for those I put the factory arms back on. Anyone that has changed the rear uppers knows how much of a PITA the flag nut is at the frame to line up.
Lowers showed up. So again I pulled the factory uppers (PITA!) and installed all four RS arms. Uppers are set at their shortest and then adjusted the lowers to set pinion angle.
All is well now, right? Nope. Now my springs are really bowed and contacting the trackbar near the frame mount, while sitting still. It makes a wonderful clunking noise simply driving on the road. [emoji849]
I call Ruffstuff since they are their arms. The gentleman I spoke with tells me that the guys making those arms “really know what they are doing”. Then I’m asked, “Didn’t your lift come with correction wedges?” I explain I pieced the lift together myself and it’s not really a kit. I’m told the “only” two options are to live with it or get the wedges. Sadly I believe him and in my haste to get wedges ordered before close of business last Friday, I did no research. Now I see many of you who actually know what you’re talking about say the wedges don’t really help. Fuck!
Since the wedges arrived today and only cost $25, I’m going to try them out. (Very likely another regret.) I’ve considered putting the factory arms back on, cutting my losses and dropping the RS arms on CL. RS won’t accept my lower arms back because I painted them. (They come raw, for those that don’t know.) Yes, test fit before paint, unlike me. It doesn’t matter in the case of the uppers since they are 2nd hand.
I’ve also considered cutting 1” out of the DOM upper arms and welding them back together, but am concerned with the integrity of them or if I’ll constantly be worried about that. Then I wonder if I cut/shorten the uppers, will I have to do the same to the lowers? My wild guess is, yes.
What I’ve learned and heard so many times here? It’s expensive to be cheap. Listen to the folks here BEFORE you dive in and do something like I have. Research is your friend and the experience of many here is invaluable. I definitely regret this whole situation.
PS-I fucked up and bought cheap shit.
So I officially have one and they are called Ruffstuff rear control arms. Now I know why the rear uppers I picked up from CL were only $100, “like new, in the box”. That’s $180 cheaper than buying them new and I should’ve known better right then!
They are 18.5” at their shortest and it caused a couple problems. First the pinion angle was way off.
I literally could not bolt up the trackbar because the springs were pushed back so far! So I ordered the RS lowers in hopes that would solve the issue. While waiting for those I put the factory arms back on. Anyone that has changed the rear uppers knows how much of a PITA the flag nut is at the frame to line up.
Lowers showed up. So again I pulled the factory uppers (PITA!) and installed all four RS arms. Uppers are set at their shortest and then adjusted the lowers to set pinion angle.
All is well now, right? Nope. Now my springs are really bowed and contacting the trackbar near the frame mount, while sitting still. It makes a wonderful clunking noise simply driving on the road. [emoji849]
I call Ruffstuff since they are their arms. The gentleman I spoke with tells me that the guys making those arms “really know what they are doing”. Then I’m asked, “Didn’t your lift come with correction wedges?” I explain I pieced the lift together myself and it’s not really a kit. I’m told the “only” two options are to live with it or get the wedges. Sadly I believe him and in my haste to get wedges ordered before close of business last Friday, I did no research. Now I see many of you who actually know what you’re talking about say the wedges don’t really help. Fuck!
Since the wedges arrived today and only cost $25, I’m going to try them out. (Very likely another regret.) I’ve considered putting the factory arms back on, cutting my losses and dropping the RS arms on CL. RS won’t accept my lower arms back because I painted them. (They come raw, for those that don’t know.) Yes, test fit before paint, unlike me. It doesn’t matter in the case of the uppers since they are 2nd hand.
I’ve also considered cutting 1” out of the DOM upper arms and welding them back together, but am concerned with the integrity of them or if I’ll constantly be worried about that. Then I wonder if I cut/shorten the uppers, will I have to do the same to the lowers? My wild guess is, yes.
What I’ve learned and heard so many times here? It’s expensive to be cheap. Listen to the folks here BEFORE you dive in and do something like I have. Research is your friend and the experience of many here is invaluable. I definitely regret this whole situation.
PS-I fucked up and bought cheap shit.
Last edited:
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
Since the arm was cheap you could basically sleeve it and weld if you want. Or get all new arms.
Sent from my iPad using WAYALIFE mobile app
USMC Wrangler
New member
That’s what a welder buddy just texted me. Cut, sleeve and weld. I own a welder but am not one. He is, thankfully. Hopefully I can swing by tomorrow so he can take a look.
G-mansjk
Member
Terrorflex s/t3 inch lift and shittybuilt atlas bumpers. I still kick myself and cry a little everytime I think about how much money I waisted Haha!!!
That's right I'm a window licker, I can't spell, my grammar sucks and I learned most life skills in the army!!!! I'll help you every chance I can though Haha!!!
That's right I'm a window licker, I can't spell, my grammar sucks and I learned most life skills in the army!!!! I'll help you every chance I can though Haha!!!
SLO
Member
Since this thread got resurrected, I’ll chime in. Easy answer is the 50” light bar. I can always take it off but I did some minor modifications to the A-pillar to run the wiring that would have to be repaired.
I still question whether it was worth all the money and time to go to 40’s on my JK. Bought tires which led to new fenders because I was rubbing the ones I had on, then had to buy a new tire carrier which meant l had to move my license plate which opened a can of worms. Then, figured I better go Dana 60’s which also meant new drive shafts and new wheels (may as well spend a little extra for beadlocks). Then, with the Jeep weighing over 6000 lbs and hating the way it drove up steep grades and mountain passes, it led to a LS and while I was at it, hydro-assist.
After all that, I get my wife a JL and in a day and a half, put on a 2.5” lift and 37’s and it’s pretty much done. All I gained in ground clearance between my JK in 40’s and the JL on 37’s is about 1.5”.
I still question whether it was worth all the money and time to go to 40’s on my JK. Bought tires which led to new fenders because I was rubbing the ones I had on, then had to buy a new tire carrier which meant l had to move my license plate which opened a can of worms. Then, figured I better go Dana 60’s which also meant new drive shafts and new wheels (may as well spend a little extra for beadlocks). Then, with the Jeep weighing over 6000 lbs and hating the way it drove up steep grades and mountain passes, it led to a LS and while I was at it, hydro-assist.
After all that, I get my wife a JL and in a day and a half, put on a 2.5” lift and 37’s and it’s pretty much done. All I gained in ground clearance between my JK in 40’s and the JL on 37’s is about 1.5”.
Last edited:
Buying 2.5” Tereflex lift, 20” wheels with 35” Toyo all terrain’s. Rides extremely hard. Even with pSi at 25.
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
I ran into the same issue with rock krawler arms years ago. At the shortest length they contacted the trackbar. Their “mid arm” is a scam and causes more issues than not. Sorry you had to learn the hard way about these arms
cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
That’s teraflex for you