What problems does your Jeep have this week?

JKbrick

Active Member
There is, there’s large washers welded inside and out of the rockstars (came from Evo that way) I hate to grind those down though as I will likely eventually go back to a Fox or King that fits it perfectly.


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The Fox I used fit right in too. We put rockstars on Arrcherr’s Jeep with Rancho if I recall and it seems like they fit too


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RockinAZJK

Caught the Bug
I don't think you want to grind on them. If I recall, they're pitched to set the proper angle that the shock needs to be.



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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407

That angle wasn’t quite right anyway. It’s this curse that my Jeep has. Nothing ever fits or works quite like it should, even brand new parts. Seems like everything takes a bit of caressing or manipulating.


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fiend

Caught the Bug
Seems to be an excessive amount of play in the pinion and looks like other teeth are week on the inside


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Maybe it’s just glare, or the lighting, or the angles, but that whole set up looks off to me. Irregular wear on the teeth. And what’s this? Looks like the diff cover got pushed into the ring gear?

Adjustments.jpg


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RockinAZJK

Caught the Bug
Maybe it’s just glare, or the lighting, or the angles, but that whole set up looks off to me. Irregular wear on the teeth. And what’s this? Looks like the diff cover got pushed into the ring gear?

View attachment 338684


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The red is just glare and reflection.
These gears were initially set up 2 years ago (20k miles +/-). Whole diff got loose and had tribe16 reset it. Now 2k or so later this happens. Pinion seems loose again too.

I was pulling out of my apartment and barely on the throttle when it broke, too.


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With super glue?


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Cute but no. Helical gears that have chips can be sanded/grinded if there are no hairline cracks. You essentially just round that part over and smooth it out taking care not sand on the face of the tooth itself using a die grinder with a 2” twist lock sanding disc. Depending entirely if any other teeth were damaged by the metal debris and if the pinion is ok. Which it sounds like It’s likely trashed. But helical gears have more than one tooth of engagement and especially being where that chip is on the inner side it’ll just roll over it.
What brand gears, still under warranty?

Source: used to work remanufacturing semi drivelines


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fiend

Caught the Bug
The red is just glare and reflection.
These gears were initially set up 2 years ago (20k miles +/-). Whole diff got loose and had tribe16 reset it. Now 2k or so later this happens. Pinion seems loose again too.

I was pulling out of my apartment and barely on the throttle when it broke, too.


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Not sure what you mean by the “diff got loose,” but there’s obviously a problem. If it were me, I’d get new gears and start over.



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RockinAZJK

Caught the Bug
Not sure what you mean by the “diff got loose,” but there’s obviously a problem. If it were me, I’d get new gears and start over.



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The pinion had substantial play, and when the bearing caps were pulled the carrier literally tried to fall out. I haven’t pulled the caps this time but it appears the same has happened. I’ll be getting new gears and probably carrier at this point.


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fiend

Caught the Bug
The pinion had substantial play, and when the bearing caps were pulled the carrier literally tried to fall out. I haven’t pulled the caps this time but it appears the same has happened. I’ll be getting new gears and probably carrier at this point.


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Sounds like it just wasn’t set up correctly. The pinion shouldn’t be loose. The carrier should need to be pried out. Get new gears and an install kit (shims, crush sleeve) and have it redone. You carrier — which is your locker — should be fine and reusable, unless there’s something wrong with it that you haven’t mentioned.


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Last edited:
I’m not understanding you either on the diff falling out. Are you saying that the bearing races were too loose in the housing? Because that would mean you need a new housing. A heavy ass diff and locker coming loose when bearing caps unbolted doesn’t mean it’s bad. Only if it wiggles forward/backward when installed. If it moves left and right it was shimmed wrong.
And pinion play is not descriptive enough. Is it moving left right, in out, or are you talking about the backlash.


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RockinAZJK

Caught the Bug
Sounds like it just wasn’t set up correctly. The pinion shouldn’t be loose. The carrier should need to be pried out. Get new gears and an install kit (shims, crush sleeve) and have it redone. You carrier — which is your locker — should be fine and reusable, unless there’s something wrong with it that you haven’t mentioned.


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That’s what I would think too, but it was all tight when I had it regeared. Then when I had it all reset it was tight again.
I will say I am no expert by any means, but something just doesn’t seem right that this has happened twice now. Also, my OE rear locker doesn’t engage anymore, so it’s time just to replace it


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WJCO

Meme King
The pinion had substantial play, and when the bearing caps were pulled the carrier literally tried to fall out. I haven’t pulled the caps this time but it appears the same has happened. I’ll be getting new gears and probably carrier at this point.


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Look for scoring marks on the axle housing where the carrier races sit, and look at the carrier bearing races (their outer diameter surface). That will at least tell you if they spun in the axle housing.
 
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