3.6L Oil Filter/Cooler Adaptor Housing Replacement

AgBass01

AgBass01

Caught the Bug
Will be doing this soon, mine is leaking coolant. Going to replace thermostat and flush coolant system while I'm at it.

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AgBass01

AgBass01

Caught the Bug
Parts ordered this morning, will be doing this Friday. Picked up oil cooler, intake gaskets, thermostat, coolant system flush/cleaner and coolant. Friday looks to be a long day.
 
D

DoubleE

New member
Cleaning upper and lower intake

Great write up! I am in the middle of this job on my 2014 JK and it is going smooth because of the write up.
What did you use to clean the upper and lower intakes?
 
L

LeblAR13

New member
Still lealing

I've worked on this leak 3 times. Replaced cooler with amazon one. Pinched oring, replaced all seals on the new one, replaced oring on feed tube with thicker one. Started leaking after a week .

I wonder if the housing itself is bad.

Can a 2019 or -18 fit? Way big price difference from 2015.
 
III%er

III%er

Member
vacuum leak

I know this is an old thread, but has anybody experienced a vacuum leak and the break pedal going to the floor? Please help.
 
A.J.

A.J.

Active Member
Are you losing brake fluid? When did the problem start? Vacuum leak and brake pedal going to floor don't usually go together unless the master cylinder is leaking into the booster maybe.


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AgBass01

AgBass01

Caught the Bug
Don't know about the pedal going to the floor but I got the small evap leak code after replacing mine ur to a loose evap line on the intake plenum.

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J

jket007

New member
Mines just went bad. Noticed it on Friday when i was going to change the oil. My first Jeep. Just got it about a month ago. Didn't know this was a big issue. Hopefully this will solve the oil leak issue. Ordered the same part from amazon. I have a 2013 with 70K on it. I just did a re-gearing two weeks ago so $2,300 was just spent on it because jeep was is lifted with 35' wheels and AEV front and rear bumpers. Bought it at around 69xxx. Found oil all over the transmission pan and around the transmission. Nothing on the oil pan. Searched the form and it was between Rear main seal issue or this. check the two black plug under the car and no signs of oil build up. So ruling out the main seal. Looked at the oil coolant and did see some oil. but really couldn't tell. Do you think its safe to drive until my new oil cooler gets in? Car runs fine but when I park I see a pretty good amount of oil on the ground. Plan is to keep an eye on the oil lever until replace it.
 
AgBass01

AgBass01

Caught the Bug
As long as you check the oil level you should be fine. Swap was time consuming but pretty easy. Just be careful when you take the little plastic clip off the fuel rail.
 
C

camtjohn

New member
LeblAR13 said:
I've worked on this leak 3 times. Replaced cooler with amazon one. Pinched oring, replaced all seals on the new one, replaced oring on feed tube with thicker one. Started leaking after a week .

I wonder if the housing itself is bad.

Can a 2019 or -18 fit? Way big price difference from 2015.
Click to expand...

Did you get this figured out? I just replaced mine and it started leaking again almost immediately.

Thanks for the write-up though it was spot on! Maybe I torqued down the assembly incorrectly?

-Cameron
 
J

jket007

New member
AgBass01 said:
As long as you check the oil level you should be fine. Swap was time consuming but pretty easy. Just be careful when you take the little plastic clip off the fuel rail.
Click to expand...

appreciate it. Waiting on the parts and will do it this weekend.
 
G

GTJeepJk

New member
Thanks for the detailed writeup

Thanks for the writeup!
I just completed replacing the oil cooler on my ‘14 and used this thread. I saw somewhere that you can leave the fuel line connected as well as leave the rail attached to the lower intake to avoid any issues with the fuel system, but I took it all apart as you showed, so I’d have less junk in the way.
I used FelPro I take gaskets and a Mopar oil cooler assembly. I saw in your writeup (in the AllData) that the seals are to be installed dry, which is not what I’m used to, but I followed it. Hopefully I won’t be doing this again anytime soon!
Thanks again!
 
S

StreetAndDirt

New member
First: Great write up!!

I'm planning on doing this repair tomorrow and am a little confused as to wether or not lubing the seals on the new cooler. One post said to only lube the o-ring sealing the post that fits down into the bore in the block and not the others. That seems contrary to other oil seals. Any more information on this?

It doesn't look like the seals on the intake manifold (upper and lower) get lubed, correct?

Has anyone tried doing this without disconnecting the fuel system? I'm hesitant breaking into it if I don't have to.


Thanks for all of the great information.
 
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