Jeep JK Wrangler 2.5" Budget Boost Installation Write-Up

work2play · Jan 18, 2013

Great write up, I will definitely be using this as reference but I have a few questions.

Does the TF 2.5 BB also level the JKU or will it still run with a little rake but just 2.5 in taller? Also, If I am installing this on a 2010 JKU sahara should I consider getting a kit with shocks as well? I am only planning on running duratrac 285/70 17's so do you think that 2.5 in lift would look odd with the smaller tires. I am not sure if I should do the 2.5 BB or just a leveling kit. This is our DD and we only go offroad less then 5% of the time but I don't want to have issues with rubbing that 5% of the time. Sorry I am just confused as to which kit to go with.

Thanks,
Work2play

wayoflife · Jan 18, 2013

work2play said:
Great write up, I will definitely be using this as reference but I have a few questions.

Does the TF 2.5 BB also level the JKU or will it still run with a little rake but just 2.5 in taller? Also, If I am installing this on a 2010 JKU sahara should I consider getting a kit with shocks as well? I am only planning on running duratrac 285/70 17's so do you think that 2.5 in lift would look odd with the smaller tires. I am not sure if I should do the 2.5 BB or just a leveling kit. This is our DD and we only go offroad less then 5% of the time but I don't want to have issues with rubbing that 5% of the time. Sorry I am just confused as to which kit to go with.

Thanks,
Work2play

The BB will lift your Jeep up evenly so if you don't like the rake you have now, you will still have it. If you want a bit more clearance and level things out, the leveling kit is what you should look into. For 285's, that'll be all that you need to clear them. If you want more height, you can always install the 2.5" BB and add .5" spacers on top of it.

Tackerdown · Jan 20, 2013

work2play said:
Great write up, I will definitely be using this as reference but I have a few questions.

I am only planning on running duratrac 285/70 17's so do you think that 2.5 in lift would look odd with the smaller tires.

Click to expand...

This is my JKUR with 2.5 mine was 2.5" front 2" rear with 255/75 /17 witch are .6 inches smaller that what you will be getting.

leonbickers · Jan 20, 2013

I had this budget boost on my old 2009 2dr wrangler with 33's and it looked great and performed great too. Was easy to install by myself and considering the cost I don't think it can be beat for value for money....

I have a question though, I'm just getting round to modifying my new jeep, 2012 2dr sport with 3.73 gears M/T, I'm looking at the same lift, 2.5 BB, but this time I'm thinking to go with 35's. 90% of the time it will be used on the road unfortunately, the few times I do get to go offloading will be in the desert. Will adding 35's on stock sport axles do damage to the drive train factoring in the extra weight and rotational mass of a 35. The last thing I want is repair bills for busted clutches and/or driveshafts, transfer cases etc, or would the better option to go with 33's again like my previous jeep? I can't seem to find a threat or specific answers on this.

wayoflife · Jan 21, 2013

leonbickers said:
I had this budget boost on my old 2009 2dr wrangler with 33's and it looked great and performed great too. Was easy to install by myself and considering the cost I don't think it can be beat for value for money....

I have a question though, I'm just getting round to modifying my new jeep, 2012 2dr sport with 3.73 gears M/T, I'm looking at the same lift, 2.5 BB, but this time I'm thinking to go with 35's. 90% of the time it will be used on the road unfortunately, the few times I do get to go offloading will be in the desert. Will adding 35's on stock sport axles do damage to the drive train factoring in the extra weight and rotational mass of a 35. The last thing I want is repair bills for busted clutches and/or driveshafts, transfer cases etc, or would the better option to go with 33's again like my previous jeep? I can't seem to find a threat or specific answers on this.

You should be fine so long as you get the kit with the shock extensions or shocks that are short enough to prevent your front axle from getting too much droop. That'll help keep your front drive shaft from getting damaged. Otherwise, your drive train should be fine running 35's.

leonbickers · Jan 21, 2013

wayoflife said:
You should be fine so long as you get the kit with the shock extensions or shocks that are short enough to prevent your front axle from getting too much droop. That'll help keep your front drive shaft from getting damaged. Otherwise, your drive train should be fine running 35's.

Thanks for the response. Can you elaborate a little more on what the axle droop is and how it comes into play when adding a lift such as a 2.5BB. I was thinking to keep the original shocks to begin with and change them out at a later date.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using WAYALIFE mobile app

wayoflife · Jan 21, 2013

leonbickers said:
Thanks for the response. Can you elaborate a little more on what the axle droop is and how it comes into play when adding a lift such as a 2.5BB. I was thinking to keep the original shocks to begin with and change them out at a later date.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using WAYALIFE mobile app

On 2012 and newer model JK's, your front drive shaft will make contact with the exhaust cross over if your front axle is allowed to droop too much. This will not be an issue if you just stick with the factory shocks.

leonbickers · Jan 21, 2013

wayoflife said:
On 2012 and newer model JK's, your front drive shaft will make contact with the exhaust cross over if your front axle is allowed to droop too much. This will not be an issue if you just stick with the factory shocks.

Ok thanks, looks like I will need to go with the shocks too!

wayoflife · Jan 21, 2013

leonbickers said:
Ok thanks, looks like I will need to go with the shocks too!

If you go with new shocks, you need to make sure they are ones made for a 2012 or newer so that they won't be too long. If they are, you WILL have issues.

whiterider · Jan 22, 2013

13 JKUR BB install done, ready for 35's

I have a 2013 JKUR and just installed this kit.

I wanted to add a few notes to people to clear up some confusion to some who may be looking to install. I found every thread before hand and reviewed before I pulled the trigger. But there are still some things that I learned during install.

Sway bar links, non greasable:
My Kit did not have greasable sway bar links, and I don't think they come this way anymore. The ones I received had extended sway bar links that were very similar to stock. The weird thing is that I received a bag with grease nozzles for the sway bar links, so it was very confusing making me think something was missing or sent to me in error. I am still waiting on Teraflex response to make sure I received right parts.

Rear sway bar link installation:
I installed my links on the outside of the sway bar and axle mount. I just did not see how it had enough room if I installed them on the inside sway bar and axle mount. not sure if there was any difference between 2013 and older models.

Front Brake Lines:
Front brake lines had to be adjusted and slack pulled from caliper side to leave more room for the axle droop. Even still, there does not seem to be enough brake line for full axle droop. I have put a call into Teraflex, as I am afraid I will run into a damaged brake line if I go offroading and allow the axle to droop all the way. I was playing around with it on the jacks while the jeeps was on stands, and seemed the shocks and extensions allow the axle to drop farther than the brake line allows.

Spring installation:
Fronts were worse than rear. I recommend a spring compressor if you are running Rubicon springs or anything longer than stock sport spring. They were a pain in the a** to reinstall without getting creative. A trip to the auto store for a free rented spring compressor would have been nice if I had prepared for it. Instead I used a vice to compress a few coils and wire tie them until I installed, then snipped the wires. The problem on the front is that the front axle has limited travel down due to driveshaft hitting exhaust. You cannot push axle down any further unless you detach the driveshaft. A fully extended spring will not fit back on top of axle with the spacers unless you compress it.

Other than that, the ride is great, steering was not even affected, and everything is as it was before, just 2.5" higher, and the front rake seems to be gone. Installing my 35" tires this week. I just have to get rid of my stockers to pay me back for the new wheels and tires. Wheels cost more for my jeep than my benz thanks to price of tires.

wayoflife · Jan 22, 2013

whiterider said:
Sway bar links, non greasable:
My Kit did not have greasable sway bar links, and I don't think they come this way anymore. The ones I received had extended sway bar links that were very similar to stock. The weird thing is that I received a bag with grease nozzles for the sway bar links, so it was very confusing making me think something was missing or sent to me in error. I am still waiting on Teraflex response to make sure I received right parts.

Do you have any pics of the links? Depending on the kind of bushings it has, it may not need to be greased. Of course, if you got zerks for it, I would think they would be greasable and their overseas manufacturer is just lacking in the QC department.

Rear sway bar link installation:
I installed my links on the outside of the sway bar and axle mount. I just did not see how it had enough room if I installed them on the inside sway bar and axle mount. not sure if there was any difference between 2013 and older models.

The rear sway bar links are designed to be installed on the outside. People only install them on the inside IF they are still running factory wheels without wheel spacers and to do that, you would need to drill new mounting holes. Not something I would recommend.

Front Brake Lines:
Front brake lines had to be adjusted and slack pulled from caliper side to leave more room for the axle droop. Even still, there does not seem to be enough brake line for full axle droop. I have put a call into Teraflex, as I am afraid I will run into a damaged brake line if I go offroading and allow the axle to droop all the way. I was playing around with it on the jacks while the jeeps was on stands, and seemed the shocks and extensions allow the axle to drop farther than the brake line allows.

You need to just remove the brake line from the axle mount and run it over it like 2007-11 JK's came.

Spring installation:
Fronts were worse than rear. I recommend a spring compressor if you are running Rubicon springs or anything longer than stock sport spring. They were a pain in the a** to reinstall without getting creative. A trip to the auto store for a free rented spring compressor would have been nice if I had prepared for it. Instead I used a vice to compress a few coils and wire tie them until I installed, then snipped the wires. The problem on the front is that the front axle has limited travel down due to driveshaft hitting exhaust. You cannot push axle down any further unless you detach the driveshaft. A fully extended spring will not fit back on top of axle with the spacers unless you compress it.

This write-up was written for 2007-10 model JK's and the removal of the automatic transmission skid plate would have provided enough clearance of the front drive shaft to make the installation easy. The new placement of the 2012-up exhaust crossover will get in the way of your drive shaft regardless if you have an automatic or manual and disconnecting it from the front axle should be done to all for full droop. There are only 4 bolts to remove and a 15mm socket is all that you need. This is a much easier and safer way to go than to use a spring compressor.

whiterider · Jan 22, 2013

Thanks for all the advice, super appreciated

wayoflife said:
Do you have any pics of the links? Depending on the kind of bushings it has, it may not need to be greased. Of course, if you got zerks for it, I would think they would be greasable and their overseas manufacturer is just lacking in the QC department.

I attached pics I just took now, they definitely are not greasable, waiting to hear back still. They look exactly like the stock units, just longer.

The rear sway bar links are designed to be installed on the outside. People only install them on the inside IF they are still running factory wheels without wheel spacers and to do that, you would need to drill new mounting holes. Not something I would recommend.
Glad I went this route then!

You need to just remove the brake line from the axle mount and run it over it like 2007-11 JK's came.

This I will do then, as long as there are no issues with them just hanging around.

This write-up was written for 2007-10 model JK's and the removal of the automatic transmission skid plate would have provided enough clearance of the front drive shaft to make the installation easy. The new placement of the 2012-up exhaust crossover will get in the way of your drive shaft regardless if you have an automatic or manual and disconnecting it from the front axle should be done to all for full droop. There are only 4 bolts to remove and a 15mm socket is all that you need. This is a much easier and safer way to go than to use a spring compressor.

Wish I would have known this. as yes, the transmission skid plate was no where in the way. That is easier than spring compressor.
not sure I have heard of a spring compressor being dangerous, as I have used them for over 16 years on my import cars since I was 16. They always seemed to be safe for the most part. The ones that I have used have full straps that ensure they cannot slip off.

These couple clarifications will definitely help out newer model jeepers following this write up.

wayoflife · Jan 22, 2013

whiterider said:
I attached pics I just took now, they definitely are not greasable, waiting to hear back still. They look exactly like the stock units, just longer.

Yep, the pics you posted up are not greasable and you will be fine as is.

This I will do then, as long as there are no issues with them just hanging around.

Nope, you shouldn't have any issues and, this is how they used to come.

Wish I would have known this. as yes, the transmission skid plate was no where in the way. That is easier than spring compressor.
not sure I have heard of a spring compressor being dangerous, as I have used them for over 16 years on my import cars since I was 16. They always seemed to be safe for the most part. The ones that I have used have full straps that ensure they cannot slip off.

I haven't had to use a set of spring compressors in a long time but the last set I did use didn't have any straps. Regardless, they simply are not needed if you free up your axle so that it can fully droop out.

IIWorlds · Feb 16, 2013

whiterider said:
I have a 2013 JKUR and just installed this kit.

I wanted to add a few notes to people to clear up some confusion to some who may be looking to install. I found every thread before hand and reviewed before I pulled the trigger. But there are still some things that I learned during install.

Sway bar links, non greasable:
My Kit did not have greasable sway bar links, and I don't think they come this way anymore. The ones I received had extended sway bar links that were very similar to stock. The weird thing is that I received a bag with grease nozzles for the sway bar links, so it was very confusing making me think something was missing or sent to me in error. I am still waiting on Teraflex response to make sure I received right parts.

Rear sway bar link installation:
I installed my links on the outside of the sway bar and axle mount. I just did not see how it had enough room if I installed them on the inside sway bar and axle mount. not sure if there was any difference between 2013 and older models.

Front Brake Lines:
Front brake lines had to be adjusted and slack pulled from caliper side to leave more room for the axle droop. Even still, there does not seem to be enough brake line for full axle droop. I have put a call into Teraflex, as I am afraid I will run into a damaged brake line if I go offroading and allow the axle to droop all the way. I was playing around with it on the jacks while the jeeps was on stands, and seemed the shocks and extensions allow the axle to drop farther than the brake line allows.

Spring installation:
Fronts were worse than rear. I recommend a spring compressor if you are running Rubicon springs or anything longer than stock sport spring. They were a pain in the a** to reinstall without getting creative. A trip to the auto store for a free rented spring compressor would have been nice if I had prepared for it. Instead I used a vice to compress a few coils and wire tie them until I installed, then snipped the wires. The problem on the front is that the front axle has limited travel down due to driveshaft hitting exhaust. You cannot push axle down any further unless you detach the driveshaft. A fully extended spring will not fit back on top of axle with the spacers unless you compress it.

Other than that, the ride is great, steering was not even affected, and everything is as it was before, just 2.5" higher, and the front rake seems to be gone. Installing my 35" tires this week. I just have to get rid of my stockers to pay me back for the new wheels and tires. Wheels cost more for my jeep than my benz thanks to price of tires.

What size tires do you have in the first 2 pictures? Thanks.

jkrossi · Feb 22, 2013

So installed the BB on the front and plan on doing the rear this weekend. I'm running stock wheels and I know I need wheel spacers but does any one know if I can get away with 1.25 spacers? I have a pair of 1.25 and a pair of 1.75 I'm thinking the 1.75 are over kill. Might put the 1.75 up front to keep my 35" tires from rubbing the sway bar as long as I can get away with using the 1.25 in the rear. Can I use the 1.25" in the rear to clear the track bar bracket?

Bigfoot · Mar 3, 2013

wayoflife said:
What You Will Need
• 10,16,18,19,21mm Socket/Wrenches
• 7/16,1/2,5/8,13/16″ Socket/Wrenches
• 3/8″ & 1/2″ Drive Ratchets
• 3″ Ratchet Drive Extension
• 6″-12″ Ratchet Drive Extension
• Ft. Lb. Torque Wrench
• Breaker Bar
• Crescent Wrench
• 21″ Floor Jack
• (2) Tall Jack Stands
• Wheel Chocks
• White Lithium Grease
• Long Ratchet Strap

Would a 19-1/4" Floor Jack suffice?

wayoflife · Mar 3, 2013

Bigfoot said:
Would a 19-1/4" Floor Jack suffice?

Yeah, it'll get the job done just fine.

Bigfoot · Mar 3, 2013

OK, thanks!

Do you happen to know the minimum? I mean the lower the lifting range the cheaper is the jack and I will have to buy one. There are many affordable jacks that can only lift up to 15" or so.

wayoflife · Mar 3, 2013

Bigfoot said:
OK, thanks!

Do you happen to know the minimum? I mean the lower the lifting range the cheaper is the jack and I will have to buy one. There are many affordable jacks that can only lift up to 15" or so.

When it comes to working on Jeeps, bigger is better. I typically recommend nothing less than 19" and if you get get 21"-23", all the better. If you can't afford a quality floor jack, check your local Harbor Freight as they'll have some big jacks for pretty cheap.

Bigfoot · Mar 3, 2013

The price of the 19-1/4" jack is $80. It is a Craftsman. I will check out Harbor Freight as well. Thank you.

Jeep JK Wrangler 2.5" Budget Boost Installation Write-Up

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