sean.m.adams33
New member
That is a good looking wheel. 
RubiCAT Gettin EVO'd UP!!
- Thread starter wayoflife
- Start date
JAGS
Hooked
Speaking of which, all this talk about Rubicat reminded me that I should post up the following pics of us dropper her off at Off Road Evolution last week...
As some of you may know, we installed a new Dynatrac ProRock 80 on Moby and so we are now going to install his old ProRock 60 on Rubicat. Of course, being that Moby was running a 5x5.5 bolt pattern, we now needed to get new wheels and so, we will be installing a set of new ATX Chamber bead lock wheels as well :yup:
Here's a shot of what they look like installed if you haven't seen them before...
Last but not least, the ProRock 60 was set up for an EVO Lever and so, we decided that it might be time to finally upgrade Rubicat to a DTD and so, we will be getting that installed as well. :crazyeyes:
I ..... am ..... drooling. :yup: Man, that is awesome you're able to pull off the upgrade. Are you sticking to 37s on Cat or are you going 40s across the board on your JKs?
bjordaneer
New member
Thanks! .
StrizzyChris
New member
And those old slabs ;-)
I read this thread a few times it was so informative and interesting!
A few specific questions:
1. How's the highway driving comfort and feel? I've got a 3 hour drive to Rubicon, Niagra Rim, Slickrock, Tahoe, et al
2. Can the install be done in an average garage? I'm confident with any bolt-on pieces, but I don't weld and I'm not interested in practicing cutting on my 10A.
3. How much range in height is there without changing springs? Can they be adjusted over the full range while installed?
4. What's the largest tire you think you can safely and effectively run on this setup with flat fenders?
5. Do you have limiting straps, and if so, what length?
6. Are the high clearance CA mounts necessary or nice? The EVO site says to use them with the Lever, not the bolt-ons, but you used them and it seems like they'd be worthwhile.
7. Lastly -- since you were beta testing, I'm guessing you didn't pay for them, so would you opt for the bolt-on coilover kit instead of a standard coil and shock lift if you had to open your own wallet? If you did pay, that answers that question!
Chris @ EVO sent me the same quote as someone posted, about $6,200 for front & rear coilovers, long-arm kit, and draglink flip. It's about $3K more than a comparable coil and spring kit, but if the height adjustment works as hoped, I love the concept of running low on 34s in the winter and high on 37s during the wheeling months, plus all the flexiness of coilovers!
Hope y'all had fun at the Suds N Grub! I'll be there next time....
A few specific questions:
1. How's the highway driving comfort and feel? I've got a 3 hour drive to Rubicon, Niagra Rim, Slickrock, Tahoe, et al
2. Can the install be done in an average garage? I'm confident with any bolt-on pieces, but I don't weld and I'm not interested in practicing cutting on my 10A.
3. How much range in height is there without changing springs? Can they be adjusted over the full range while installed?
4. What's the largest tire you think you can safely and effectively run on this setup with flat fenders?
5. Do you have limiting straps, and if so, what length?
6. Are the high clearance CA mounts necessary or nice? The EVO site says to use them with the Lever, not the bolt-ons, but you used them and it seems like they'd be worthwhile.
7. Lastly -- since you were beta testing, I'm guessing you didn't pay for them, so would you opt for the bolt-on coilover kit instead of a standard coil and shock lift if you had to open your own wallet? If you did pay, that answers that question!
Chris @ EVO sent me the same quote as someone posted, about $6,200 for front & rear coilovers, long-arm kit, and draglink flip. It's about $3K more than a comparable coil and spring kit, but if the height adjustment works as hoped, I love the concept of running low on 34s in the winter and high on 37s during the wheeling months, plus all the flexiness of coilovers!
Hope y'all had fun at the Suds N Grub! I'll be there next time....
Nah, sticking with 37's. It's a perfect size for a JK and one that doesn't require a ton of money to run without fear of breaking stuff. If we didn't have Moby, I would probably want 40's but having 2 JK's with 40's would eat into my travel funds. Plus, I just got our new ProRock 44 and there's no way I would run 40's on it and there's no way I would do another swap so soon.
Haha you beat me to it! So where those bolt on coilovers headed?....
I do have a few other people who have inquired about it but none really too serious. If you really are interested, I'll keep you in mind.
LOL!! Sorry, I've been told that King is back ordered about 6-8 weeks and I don't think we'll have any pics of Rubicat with these wheels for at least 2 months... maybe more.
I will be selling them for sure but do have a few other people in line first. I won't have them available until work gets underway on Rubicat and that might be a couple of months from now. If you can wait that long and if the others before you bow out, I'll be sure to let you all know.
I have nothing but time. :yup:
Dialed in the way I like it, it feels and drives better than anything else out there and second only to the EVO DTD. Of course, ride quality and comfort is 100% subjective and this is just based on what I like.
Yes, the bolt-on kit can be installed in an average garage and it does not require welding.
Depends on how much weight you carry in your Jeep. The standard springs that come with the bolt-on coil over kit are more intended for a stock JK that is unloaded. With that, you can set them from about 2.5" to probably 4.5" or maybe even a bit more but, I wouldn't. At 2.5", you won't have much up travel and there's no fun in that and really, the whole point of getting the EVO bolt-on kit is to be able to have big flex while keeping your COG down low. I personally feel that it's best suited to be run at about 3"-3.5" and that's where I run mine. Going back to spring, IF you have a heavy JK and carry a ton of gear all the time, I would recommend that you get them built with heavier spring rates to help compensate for the extra load.
Yes. It will help to have your frame rails on jack stands and have your tires removed so that you can drop your axle as that will help to release a lot of the load and make things easier but yes, it can be adjusted with it installed.
I don't see any reason why you couldn't run 40's with this setup but of course, that's just if all you're concerned with is clearing bigger tires. With 40's, I wouldn't run them with anything less than Dynatrac ProRock 60's and with all that extra weight, I personally would only want to run them with a DTD. At high speeds, there's a lot more going on with big heavy axles and tires/wheels that can weigh upwards of 200 lbs. a piece. A DTD will be able to deal with the abuse a lot better. Having said all that, I personally would only run 37's with this setup but only because of how Cindy and I like to drive out in the desert. If all you do is rock crawl, going bigger won't be an issue - totally save and effective.
Nope, they are not needed with the bolt on kit.
The high clearance mounts are ONLY used with the EVO Lever. We got them because that was the direction we were going to go with before changing our minds to test out the then new, bolt-on kit. You need to have new brackets installed on your axle to run the high clearance brackets and both require a lot of cutting and welding to make them work.
To be clear, we were only beta testing the brackets that EVO makes and NOT the King coil overs that come with the kit and they are a BULK of the cost. Having paid for them, yes, I can honestly say that I would absolutely opt for them over ANY standard coil and shock lift as there really is NO comparison. I have installed and tested a myriad of standard coil lift and shocks and the only thing better I have tested is the DTD.
Hope that helps.
Helps a lot! 6-8 weeks will be a long wait, but worth it. Be sure to ask EVO for a commission/referral fee :thumb:
Curious as to why no limiting strap is necessary. Seems like they would be needed to prevent damaging the expensive Kings.
Also, it was Drew at ORE that sent the quote, not Chris, don't know where I got that name from....
Curious as to why no limiting strap is necessary. Seems like they would be needed to prevent damaging the expensive Kings.
Also, it was Drew at ORE that sent the quote, not Chris, don't know where I got that name from....
Please be sure to let them know that I helped you to decide to buy their stuff.
You get what you pay for with Kings and they don't need to be protected in this way. You only need limiting straps IF you have too much axle droop and enough so to cause drive line bind. This is why we have straps in the rear of Moby with it's EVO Lever.
ttfhell
New member
Please be sure to let them know that I helped you to decide to buy their stuff.
You get what you pay for with Kings and they don't need to be protected in this way. You only need limiting straps IF you have too much axle droop and enough so to cause drive line bind. This is why we have straps in the rear of Moby with it's EVO Lever.
When are you going to have a used DTD And Evo Lever for sale? I know a guy who's interested. Lol
1BAMFR
New member
NAUJK
New member
How much are you looking at for those them beautiful Boltons?? If the price was right I may be interested as well!! :crazyeyes: