S&B CAI and Hood Scoops

kevman65

kevman65

Hooked
So, dropped the air intake box when it was cold out. Landed perfectly on a corner on the concrete curb and broke. Right now it's held together with Gorilla tape and super glue and used a heat gun to get a good bond.

I was already thinking about getting the S&B full set up and see if temps will drop under hood. I already know for the most part the only gain I will get from a CAI is the gain of fuel usage. There is the possibility of doing an exhaust and a tune later and at that point I may see gains.

What is the opinion of the collective of this specific set up to cool things down a bit more? The passenger side hood scoop connects to CAI box. The driver side directs cooler outside air down to under hood air when moving. When idle it would vent heat.

My water temp runs 225ish no matter what time of year once the engine is warmed up. System is full, I've tested it a few times and it's good to around -30. Thermostat seems to function fine, haven't taken it apart to check it I'd just like to see if I can get things under the hood to cool down some. Don't know if S&B is just another form of snake oil or not.

Okay, not in the n00b zone, I'm tough, have at it.
 
Seems like Jeeps run hotter than other vehicles. I think part of it is that everything is just so fucking crammed in there. I honestly can't see a cold air intake making that much of a difference in temperature (my opinion). I would be more worried about the potential of any warranty claims being denied if the manufacturer saw the cold air intake. I've seen that happen many times.
 
WJCO said:
Seems like Jeeps run hotter than other vehicles. I think part of it is that everything is just so fucking crammed in there. I honestly can't see a cold air intake making that much of a difference in temperature (my opinion). I would be more worried about the potential of any warranty claims being denied if the manufacturer saw the cold air intake. I've seen that happen many times.
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It's more the hood scoops. As I said, one side feeds the air intake box, the other either induces cooler air under the hood or vents off hot air from under hood, depending on whether you're moving or not.

I've got less than a year left on factory warranty, so I'm starting to think outside the box. Yes I know the drive train warranty runs longer. But dammit all that excessive heat has to be doing some damage too.
 
kevman65 said:
It's more the hood scoops. As I said, one side feeds the air intake box, the other either induces cooler air under the hood or vents off hot air from under hood, depending on whether you're moving or not.

I've got less than a year left on factory warranty, so I'm starting to think outside the box. Yes I know the drive train warranty runs longer. But dammit all that excessive heat has to be doing some damage too.
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Gotcha. I just looked it up. This what you talking about:

jsinstalled2.jpg
 
So, found a couple of Youtube vids where a guy did an install AND he ran the JT on a dyno using both the OEM and the S&B setups.

OEM makes more horsepower and torque than the S&B. JT ran a little lean on S&B (which should have increased HP) compared to the OEM box. So the computer is not adjusting for the higher airflow and the dyno tech even told the guy he needs a tune for the S&B to get a good comparison.

I was surprised the computer didn't adjust to the higher and cooler air flow. Thought that was built in to a certain percentage of their stock tunes. Guess things have changed.

He did show where his intake air temperature was about 6 degrees cooler with the S&B and his engine coolant temp was about 25 degrees cooler.
That's just using the S&B CAI and no hood scoop option.

So if I decide to go this route looks like I will have to jailbreak the computer and get some tunes written and installed in order to optimize the higher air flow. Will probably do an exhaust change too so I only have to do tunes once. Less restriction will help there.

Just sharing findings, as I dig deeper and probably do this mod I'll update.
 
Man i did not need to see this! I want it. Keep in mind this is Ram air too so maybe the dyno wasnt even taking into account the excess air that should be forced into the box.
 
why not just cut the bottom of the hood scoops to get more air flow and the side vents (can't recall is they are already open)

25 degrees cooler on a dyno? wonder if that is more the environment of the dyno location

I've seen that video and wonder if the system had enough time to relearn.
Every mod I've done that affects theses modern controlled engines, I've found it takes several key cycles to relearn or the battery needs to be disconnected to force the system to discharge so it will relearn faster.
Several mods I did on the JK had the battery disconnect method in the instructions.
 
jeeeep said:
why not just cut the bottom of the hood scoops to get more air flow and the side vents (can't recall is they are already open)

25 degrees cooler on a dyno? wonder if that is more the environment of the dyno location

I've seen that video and wonder if the system had enough time to relearn.
Every mod I've done that affects theses modern controlled engines, I've found it takes several key cycles to relearn or the battery needs to be disconnected to force the system to discharge so it will relearn faster.
Several mods I did on the JK had the battery disconnect method in the instructions.
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No, the intake temp and engine coolant temp were done on road. He backed up the ambient temperatures 2 days in row. No mention of humidity.

The dyno runs were to show HP and Torque. After talking to someone locally, they agree it takes a few to several cycles of run and sleep for the computer to adjust. So I am inching closer to making this purchase. As I don't have a chassis dyno available I won't be able to spend the money to verify results over time.

Several engine dyno's ( This is Indy after all) but that doesn't help.
 
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