Another day another question. I haven’t really had it on the highway much lately. I’m now experience a shimmy after hitting bumps. You’ll hit an expansion joint or similar, and the wheel will start to shake back and forth a couple times before mellowing out. Still related to tire imbalance?
Tire imbalance or death wobble?
- Thread starter 13jkjunky
- Start date
Mike Pierson
Hooked
Tire imbalance or drag link and track bar not parallel enough. Front control arms could be too steep too.
I just did the tie rod and drag link. The new drag link appeared to be pretty even with the track bar. If it wasn’t what would I do to change that? Track bar relocation bracket? Will take a photo of the alignment of them and the control arm angle in a bit
RJV
Caught the Bug
That's not death wobble at all, real death wobble will shake a watch off your wrist and make you pull over. So many people run over a pebble and yell death wobble. That being said, mine had a similar shimmy and it turned out to be the tires. Got a new set of tires and it went away instantly.
jeeeep
Hooked
because iPhone default doesn't work anywhere outside the Apple environment.I was going to post a short video of what mine looks like but it’s too technologically advanced apparently.
The vid is in my photo library on my iPhone but it won’t attach. Any ideas? I searched the “help” items.
you got the tires balanced, beads removed?
Not yet, I just noticed it today and was curious. At 70 I don’t really notice a shake at all until I hit those bumps like in the video. Then it shakes a little back and forth before smoothing out.
At 50-55 as seen in the prior video, it’s a pretty consistent shake.
NPC 6060⁸42
Hooked
We are still chasing our tail here. Lose the beads and get your tires balanced. Or just drive 70 mph plus wherever you go and avoid any bumps.
I wish that was possible lol. Was just curious as it doesn’t shake, then when you hit a bump it starts to the stops.
kevman65
Hooked
With tire beads, they do nothing until you get to and maintain a specific speed. That is if you have the proper amount of beads for the tire size on your vehicle.
So, the sweet spot is tiny, if you have the right amount and hit and maintain the right speed.
Get the snake oil out of your tires, get your wheels and tires balanced the old fashioned way, then take it for a drive.
So, the sweet spot is tiny, if you have the right amount and hit and maintain the right speed.
Get the snake oil out of your tires, get your wheels and tires balanced the old fashioned way, then take it for a drive.
Here’s some photos showing the track bar and drag link orientation as well as control arm angle
Andy5160
Hooked
Get read of that stabilizer and test without
After that get oem one back in but I don’t like how it sits at the angle. I would use synergy relocation bolt which keeps it nice and parallel.
It’s mounted with metalcloaks stabilizer relocation bracket. What’s wrong with the stabilizer vs the OEM?
Andy5160
Hooked
Stabilizer is elevated to high on the axle side.
Here is mine when I owned JL Wrangler.
Attachments
Yes but why move back to the OEM stabilizer
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
You are not allowed to ask anymore questions until you take those stupid ass beads out of the tires. That is most certainly the cause of your issues. Just stop throwing things at it until you do the beads and balance.
The rebalance is happening tomorrow. It’s the next step regardless. I’m suspecting maybe a defect in the tire as the wheels have residue from stick on weights being used prior. I’m thinking they’ve been hard to balance, and beads were a last resort. Maybe not, no way to know.
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
No.