Jabberjaw

WJCO said:
What do you mean that only one of the compressors is working? How can you tell? As far as the ground, no ground should cause an engine light.
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If you take the plastic intake disc off of the compressors you can see the internals sucking in air. One is working, one is not.

When I undid the ground nut closest to the air intake, I heard what sound like a starter clicking. It was like the existing ground was no longer grounded. (Yes, I was shortcutting and didn’t unhook the battery first, but I figured undoing a ground bolt wasn’t going to throw anything fits).

Jeep is driving fine and I don’t notice anything weird.
 
I would run direct power and ground right to the compressor from the battery to see if it's working. That will at least tell you if it's a bad compressor vs a relay/wiring issue. Sucks if it is a bad compressor based on how long you had to wait for it.
 
WJCO said:
I would run direct power and ground right to the compressor from the battery to see if it's working. That will at least tell you if it's a bad compressor vs a relay/wiring issue. Sucks if it is a bad compressor based on how long you had to wait for it.
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Sucks for sure. I’m hoping it’s one of my connections. Running a line direct doesn’t tell much (besides a bad connection in the other run) because the relays are built into the twin.
 
Well shit, that sucks. Regarding the code, could just be a fluke. I would disconnect your neg lead for about 15 min to clear it. Give it more concern if it comes back again. As far as the compressor goes, seems like the problem should be contained to the unit itself if one is working.
 
Check engine cleared (at least for now) so that is good. Now I just need to decide how to chase down the issue with the one compressor.
 
Sharkey said:
Check engine cleared (at least for now) so that is good. Now I just need to decide how to chase down the issue with the one compressor.
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On my ARB one of the brushes was not engaged in the armature of the motor, there is a detent in them for assembly to hold the brushes back until you push them up. The wire for the brush was also just a little bound up too

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CalSgt said:
On my ARB one of the brushes was not engaged in the armature of the motor, there is a detent in them for assembly to hold the brushes back until you push them up. The wire for the brush was also just a little bound up too

View attachment 365400
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Well that sucks. Seems that I've talked to a lot of people who've had problems with their twin. Nice of you to post up a possible problem.
 
Ok, so this one falls on me, not ARB. I was able to swap the red power wires at the ARB plug and, low and behold, the compressor that wasn’t working now is and the one that was, isn’t. So, one of my splices to extend the harness must be bad.

I’m going to have to pull the wiring completed to get to my connections, which sucks balls. Since I’m doing that anyway, I’m now considering running a single 4 gauge welding cable all the way to the back with a breaker on either end. I could hook the ARB fused harness onto a post in the ammo can. (I think someone suggested that to begin with, and I should have listened).

4 gauge should be able to handle that load for that distance, right?
 
Sharkey said:
Ok, so this one falls on me, not ARB. I was able to swap the red power wires at the ARB plug and, low and behold, the compressor that wasn’t working now is and the one that was, isn’t. So, one of my splices to extend the harness must be bad.

I’m going to have to pull the wiring completed to get to my connections, which sucks balls. Since I’m doing that anyway, I’m now considering running a single 4 gauge welding cable all the way to the back with a breaker on either end. I could hook the ARB fused harness onto a post in the ammo can. (I think someone suggested that to begin with, and I should have listened).

4 gauge should be able to that load for that distance, right?
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You could double the 4 gauge and the power would be distributed between 2 lines.
 
A good set up 4 gauge jumper cables would work too. That’s what I used to bring the power from the battery to the back of the Jeep. I have a 200 amp fuse at the battery incase there is any grounding
 
Sharkey said:
Ok, so this one falls on me, not ARB. I was able to swap the red power wires at the ARB plug and, low and behold, the compressor that wasn’t working now is and the one that was, isn’t. So, one of my splices to extend the harness must be bad.

I’m going to have to pull the wiring completed to get to my connections, which sucks balls. Since I’m doing that anyway, I’m now considering running a single 4 gauge welding cable all the way to the back with a breaker on either end. I could hook the ARB fused harness onto a post in the ammo can. (I think someone suggested that to begin with, and I should have listened).

4 gauge should be able to handle that load for that distance, right?
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4 awg wire can handle 50 amps @ about 18 feet… your ARB twin pulls 50 amps at load. Not sure of your cable length but if it still close to 18 feet I would step up to the next thicker option.
wayoflife said:
Well that sucks. Seems that I've talked to a lot of people who've had problems with their twin. Nice of you to post up a possible problem.
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It is a single I bought from Overlander used but still actually new, he had all of the extra parts and harness stollen out of his garage so he sold it on here for cheap
 
CalSgt said:
4 awg wire can handle 50 amps @ about 18 feet… your ARB twin pulls 50 amps at load. Not sure of your cable length but if it still close to 18 feet I would step up to the next thicker option.
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Really? I’ve looked at about half a dozen charts (not saying they are right) and they all show 4 awg handling more amps than that at distances around 20 feet.
 
4 gauge is more than enough. Price difference isn’t huge between that and a thicker wire, just a sightly larger pain to run the wire as you get thicker.
 
Ok electrical experts, would this shopping list work fine to pull one power line about 20 feet to the back corner of the Gladiator? That line will be protected by the Bussman 90 within one foot of the battery. Then the ground and the power line will tie into separate two post bars in the “ammo box” where the compressor is mounted. The compressor harness will connect to power and ground there, with the separate compressor power lines having their own 40 amp inline fuses on 8 gauge wire (less than a foot or so in length).

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I wouldn't call myself an electrical expert, but I'd do that.

Also, if you don't already have a way to crimp the cable (2 gauge is huge), one of these little tools is good to have; you just smack it with a hammer:

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