seanb33
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I've seen somebody on the forum do this but not using this system. I'm sure it'll all work the same but try doing a search on the topic.
DIY Spod- Waytekwire
- Thread starter pvanweelden
- Start date
I've seen somebody on the forum do this but not using this system. I'm sure it'll all work the same but try doing a search on the topic.
pvanweelden
New member
Canvas JK made a switch plate for that spot, and then used the switches with the diy spod.
Page 13- http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?13119-DIY-Spod-Waytekwire/page13
Page 13- http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?13119-DIY-Spod-Waytekwire/page13
Last edited:
The switch panel you are referring to is the one I made. I took a piece of paper and traced the outline as it sits on the dash. Then I took the rough dimensions and cut a piece of 6065 T6 aluminum and rounded the edges to fit the template. Then I took an aerosol can and rounded checking fitment as I went. Once I had the desired curve I layer out where the switches were to go. Using a multi-bit I drilled the holes to fit the switches. Sprayed it with bedliner paint. Once it dried I used 5 minute epoxy to secure it to the cubby. With the cubby I cut the back out leaving about a 1.5 inches to protect the switches. Total time to make was a solid day.
R/
Will
Success! Everything wired up and works great. I'll post some pictures later on but nothing you haven't seen here.
For those who put the box in the glovebox area, did you wedge it in the back left corner? I was concerned because after driving home from work and inspecting that area there are two metal pipes that run to the dash that were pretty hot to the touch. I'm guessing maybe something to do with the heater but who knows. Anyway, it seems like stuffing the box back there will have either the box or wires making contact with these pipes. Obviously I don't want to melt anything! This was a quick look so maybe I'm off base but what did you all find?
For those who put the box in the glovebox area, did you wedge it in the back left corner? I was concerned because after driving home from work and inspecting that area there are two metal pipes that run to the dash that were pretty hot to the touch. I'm guessing maybe something to do with the heater but who knows. Anyway, it seems like stuffing the box back there will have either the box or wires making contact with these pipes. Obviously I don't want to melt anything! This was a quick look so maybe I'm off base but what did you all find?
I have mine mounted there and everything is still good. Those heater core tubes would have to get really hot to melt the wires. You could put the wires in a protective cover.
R/
Will
Sent from my fRuit product using WAL
Pics of the switch panel? They are in the thread.
Sent from my fRuit product using WAL
Greg__Berger
Member
What size heat shrink did you use on this project? I'll need to get some and figured I'd just order it from waytekwire. Also, for those of you that mounted the panel in the engine bay... how did you fully weatherproof the box. I know the outside has a seal, I'm more worried about the unused holes in the bottom. Will plugging it with a cable seal be enough?
pvanweelden
New member
I used 1/2" heat shrink over my wires going to the switches and my short relay output wires. The seals have a small hole (for the wire to go through) you could throw some silicone on the holes to totally seal them up.
Sent from my SM-N900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
Sent from my SM-N900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
Greg__Berger
Member
Thanks! I'm a total newbie when it comes to anything electrical, but hopefully I'll be giving this a shot soon.
pvanweelden
New member
Cool, just take your time, read everything a few times 
then let me know if you have any questions :thumbup:
Sent from my SM-N900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
then let me know if you have any questions :thumbup:Sent from my SM-N900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
So was I but this cured my fears of electrical things. The hardest part is soldiering the connectors. After the first three or four I got it down. In fact I just built up a complete wire set for another member. Took me about an hour. That is what takes the longest. If you have a riding lawnmower or four wheeler you can test it before installing it on your Jeep. Also help is available. I can assist as well.
R/
Will
after reading this thread and another one about how S-Pod conduct themselves on this Forum my decision was fairly easy: I'm not going to buy a S-Pod but rather attempt to DIY something and integrate some functions that I think S-Pod forgot or never thought about.
this was the wiring mess I wanted to get rid of:
I still had a bunch of these Vandal proof switches so this was the switch of choice:
the mounting position of switches is a problem but after a bit of searching on the web I found someone who used this position:
I measured the space and decided 5 switches are enough :
I sat down and drew a diagram of what I needed and this was the result:
By law any driving lamps on the front of the vehicle have to be turned off when on low beam so I integrated the high beam trigger into my drawing and the capacitor / diode to overcome relay chatter caused by the Pulse width modulated headlights. I went for the 100uF capacitor because it was available at the electronics shop and it works
this was the wiring mess I wanted to get rid of:
I still had a bunch of these Vandal proof switches so this was the switch of choice:
the mounting position of switches is a problem but after a bit of searching on the web I found someone who used this position:
I measured the space and decided 5 switches are enough
:
I sat down and drew a diagram of what I needed and this was the result:
By law any driving lamps on the front of the vehicle have to be turned off when on low beam so I integrated the high beam trigger into my drawing and the capacitor / diode to overcome relay chatter caused by the Pulse width modulated headlights. I went for the 100uF capacitor because it was available at the electronics shop and it works
I had a suitable enclosure from a telemetry modem that I used.
here the Bosch Relays are fitted:
next I made a PC board for all connections and the diode / capacitor. Using resin to secure the cables at the bottom of the PCB:
whilst wiring up the relays I decided to protrude the fuse box through the lid for easy access:
Tight fit the CAT 5 connector is for the wiring to the dash mounted switches:
Fitted to the vehicle:
and all wired up.
here the Bosch Relays are fitted:
next I made a PC board for all connections and the diode / capacitor. Using resin to secure the cables at the bottom of the PCB:
whilst wiring up the relays I decided to protrude the fuse box through the lid for easy access:
Tight fit
the CAT 5 connector is for the wiring to the dash mounted switches:
Fitted to the vehicle:
and all wired up.
ljvsnyder
Member
found this on Ebay, what do you guys think of this setup?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171133051365?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171133051365?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649