Ya, I know this is a dead horse, but I've still not decided

[BChaffins]

Ok, I'm now leaning toward a Evo Enforcer 3" with King Shocks. That seems to fit my budget and appears it could take me a long way.

 

[gripenfelter]

King 2.5s

But as Eddie said above, they are far from necessary. In fact, I installed a set of inexpensive Ranchos while I was getting my Kings serviced, and they rode great around town. The springs are what really make the difference and I do not think you'll find a better ride than the EVO plush rides.

You'll want the draglink flip kit and a new front DS.

Great...the synergy draglink flip and tie rod, synergy ball joints, gussets, and woods driveshafts have been in the plan from the go. I've been looking into the 9000xls for the adjustability. These might be a good match with the Evo.

Thanks for the info.

 

[wayoflife]

Great...the synergy draglink flip and tie rod, synergy ball joints, gussets, and woods driveshafts have been in the plan from the go. I've been looking into the 9000xls for the adjustability. These might be a good match with the Evo.

Thanks for the info.

Get the tie rod as the factory on will bend easily but unless you're just wanting to spend money, I would just keep your factory track bar and do an EVO drag link flip. If you're dead set on getting a woods shaft, make sure to upgrade the u-joints to Neapco or spicer as the cheap Chinese ones that woods uses standard are junk.

 

[gripenfelter]

Get the tie rod as the factory on will bend easily but unless you're just wanting to spend money, I would just keep your factory track bar and do an EVO drag link flip. If you're dead set on getting a woods shaft, make sure to upgrade the u-joints to Neapco or spicer as the cheap Chinese ones that woods uses standard are junk.

I was just going over the RubiCAT build and the JE Reel information. Thanks:thumb:

 

[JK_Dave]

I didn't read this whole thread so if I'm speaking out of turn please forgive me....

I have MC 3.5 coils and arms. I am fairly happy with the arms, but I don't think I would go with their coils again. They also fit the spring buckets better than the MC coils. Mine sometimes "knock" when flexing quickly from one side to another.

That's interesting, I haven't noted that with mine. I hate to ask an obvious question but did they maybe come unseated at the top at some point and rotate out of the coil bucket "groove"? Just a thought.

Also, I like the OME shocks and they have really nice travel for a monotube, but will rust VERY quickly so plan on painting them or clear coating when new. Edit to add that if you are building a lite rig as I have tried, you can't fully stuff the rear due to the spring rate (or at least I can't). I have shock travel and clearance to go up another two inches in the rear but start to carry the tire before I get to the bump.

Do you keep your 5th wheel on and do you have any aftermarket tire carrier or bumper? Reason I ask is because I keep my 5th at home for weight, just driving around town, and my rear end feels kind of flighty - almost like an unloaded pick up truck. Not sure if that was explained well, but the sensation is enough that it's made me consider upgrading to an adjustable shock so I can try and get a more solid feel out of the rear setup.

Just curious if you've felt anything similar.

 

[gripenfelter]

So I've decided to take the advice and go with the bolt-on coilovers (thanks Rubicat build for spending more money). question I have is on control arms...Does EVO have a non-long arm CA kit or is the front lowers all thats needed? All I can find on the site is long-arm kits...Do I need to get the 8 adjustable CAs from Metalcloak?

Thanks

 

[olram30]

I'd go Currie arms before metalcloak if you really want to replace all 8 arms. Johnny joints are proven.

 

[wayoflife]

So I've decided to take the advice and go with the bolt-on coilovers (thanks Rubicat build for spending more money). question I have is on control arms...Does EVO have a non-long arm CA kit or is the front lowers all thats needed? All I can find on the site is long-arm kits...Do I need to get the 8 adjustable CAs from Metalcloak?

Thanks

Adjustable front lowers really are all that you need to run this kit on a 4-door. If you have a 2-door, you would want adjustable rear uppers as well as you will need a new rear drive shaft and the arms would be needed to set your pinion angle. If you want new control arms throughout, I personally would recommend a set of Curries. Of course, optimally, a long arm kit is what you would want to run. Assuming you will set your coil overs to about 3.5" or more, the long arms will help correct your suspension geometry and help offer an even better ride on pavement or jamming through the desert. Please note, they are far from needed and your ride will still be great without them - they will just make things better.

 

[wayoflife]

piginajeep here on the forum is running EVO bolt on coil overs with just adjustable front lower control arms and factory everything else...

It really is all you need.

 

[gripenfelter]

Adjustable front lowers really are all that you need to run this kit on a 4-door. If you have a 2-door, you would want adjustable rear uppers as well as you will need a new rear drive shaft and the arms would be needed to set your pinion angle. If you want new control arms throughout, I personally would recommend a set of Curries. Of course, optimally, a long arm kit is what you would want to run. Assuming you will set your coil overs to about 3.5" or more, the long arms will help correct your suspension geometry and help offer an even better ride on pavement or jamming through the desert. Please note, they are far from needed and your ride will still be great without them - they will just make things better.

I want to be around 3.5". So I want to make sure I understand....for 3.5" long arms are needed? I want to keep this as bolt-on as possible. I'm unsure of any good shops in this area and I am by no means a welder. If I purchased a full set of adjustable CA (non long arm) or went with just lower fronts and upper rear, can I correct the geometry?

 

[gripenfelter]

Of course this will be matched with parts from synergy...

Synergy Draglink and flip
Synergy tie rod
Synergy ball joints
Synergy gussets
Synergy Rear Track Bar and 3" Bracket

 

[olram30]

Of course this will be matched with parts from synergy...

Synergy Draglink and flip
Synergy tie rod
Synergy ball joints
Synergy gussets
Synergy Rear Track Bar and 3" Bracket

So you already bought these parts?

 

[gripenfelter]

So you already bought these parts?

Negative, I have not.

 

[JAGS]

I want to be around 3.5". So I want to make sure I understand....for 3.5" long arms are needed? I want to keep this as bolt-on as possible. I'm unsure of any good shops in this area and I am by no means a welder. If I purchased a full set of adjustable CA (non long arm) or went with just lower fronts and upper rear, can I correct the geometry?

Are you a 2-dr or 4-dr? I think Eddie was explaining for both, so depends what your rig is.

 

[olram30]

Negative, I have not.

Then don't waste money on a rear track bar or the rear bracket. Coil over kit comes with a bracket and factory track bar is all you need. Crown hd ball joints cost less if you want a greaseable metal on metal ball joint also.

 

[gripenfelter]

Are you a 2-dr or 4-dr? I think Eddie was explaining for both, so depends what your rig is.

2013 4 door Rubi

 

[gripenfelter]

Then don't waste money on a rear track bar or the rear bracket. Coil over kit comes with a bracket and factory track bar is all you need. Crown hd ball joints cost less if you want a greaseable metal on metal ball joint also.

Noted, thanks.

 

[wayoflife]

I want to be around 3.5". So I want to make sure I understand....for 3.5" long arms are needed?

Negative. The factory length arms are pretty long as is and you'd be fine even at 4" or a bit more. Trust me, I have run several setups like it in the past. Long arms would just help restore your suspension geometry and make your ride "better". They will also help correct things like axle swipe at an extreme flex. They are beneficial to have but far from "needed".

I want to keep this as bolt-on as possible. I'm unsure of any good shops in this area and I am by no means a welder.

The EVO Double D long arm kit IS a bolt on kit. Welding is not required. The link below shows the install process:

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?17760-EVO-MFG-DoubleD-Long-Arm-Installation-Photos

If I purchased a full set of adjustable CA (non long arm) or went with just lower fronts and upper rear, can I correct the geometry?

No. A full set of adjustable control arms will only allow you to position your axles under your Jeep and allow you to properly set your caster and pinion angle. You cannot change your geometry without physically moving the mounting points on your frame.

 

[olram30]

I just remembered, if you want a good set of ball joints, dynatrac has a $100 rebate going in till the end of the month on prosteers.

 

[gripenfelter]

The EVO Double D long arm kit IS a bolt on kit. Welding is not required. The link below shows the install process:

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?17760-EVO-MFG-DoubleD-Long-Arm-Installation-Photos

I guess I need to clarify....I want the ability to return to stock if needed or go to a mild BB kit if I decide to give the Jeep to my daughter once she hits driving age.