Front drive shaft options ...

Dopey84

Dopey84

New member
I'm looking to upgrade my gearing and front driveshaft. My question is on the front driveshaft however. I'm going to be running 315 70 18 what would it be best to go with..? As far as gearing goes I'm gonna run 4.88's currently I'm at 3.73's looking only at driveshaft options thank you in advance
 
TennJK

TennJK

New member
I ordered the 1310 coast from driveshaft. Haven't installed yet. MedixJK runs one in his and seems to like it just fine. With running the 315's the 1310 should be perfect.
 
2nd.gunman

2nd.gunman

Caught the Bug
Anyone running the Tom Woods 1310 bolt in shaft? It's the only one available in Aus that doesn't require you to change the axle yoke.
 
swampdog

swampdog

New member
2nd.gunman said:
Anyone running the Tom Woods 1310 bolt in shaft? It's the only one available in Aus that doesn't require you to change the axle yoke.
Click to expand...

The Tom Woods shaft apparently comes with shitty joints unless you specify you want the upgrade to Spicer joints. Most stick with JE Reel, Adams, or Coast.

Also, I believe the 1310 driveshaft is smaller than the stock driveshaft, so it really wouldn't be an upgrade...can anyone confirm this?
 
TennJK

TennJK

New member
swampdog said:
The Tom Woods shaft apparently comes with shitty joints unless you specify you want the upgrade to Spicer joints. Most stick with JE Reel, Adams, or Coast.

Also, I believe the 1310 driveshaft is smaller than the stock driveshaft, so it really wouldn't be an upgrade...can anyone confirm this?
Click to expand...

Yeah the diameter of the 1310 is smaller than stock. Which helps with clearance and flexability a bit. The big upgrade is where you can extend it or collapse it to correct that angle that comes when you lift. I wouldn't say smaller is weaker though
 
MedixJK

MedixJK

-
Dopey84 said:
I'm looking to upgrade my gearing and front driveshaft. My question is on the front driveshaft however. I'm going to be running 315 70 18 what would it be best to go with..? As far as gearing goes I'm gonna run 4.88's currently I'm at 3.73's looking only at driveshaft options thank you in advance
Click to expand...
Is your jeep lifted at all? Or are you planning to? The real benefit of an aftermarket u joint style shaft is better clearance and ability to handle steeper driveline angles associated with lifting your jeep.
 
Speedy_RCW

Speedy_RCW

Hooked
I went with an Adams 1310 with solid joints for my Jeep and 37's. Installed the shaft yesterday but haven't installed tires yet. From my research there's nothing wrong with that combo.
 
Petzl88

Petzl88

New member
Speedy_RCW said:
I went with an Adams 1310 with solid joints for my Jeep and 37's. Installed the shaft yesterday but haven't installed tires yet. From my research there's nothing wrong with that combo.
Click to expand...

So you got the Adams 1310 with the Spicer solid U-joint, changed the T-case yoke and retained the OEM pinyon yoke? That is the one that I am going to get I think.
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
TennJK said:
Yeah the diameter of the 1310 is smaller than stock. Which helps with clearance and flexability a bit. The big upgrade is where you can extend it or collapse it to correct that angle that comes when you lift. I wouldn't say smaller is weaker though
Click to expand...

Factory is a 1330 meaning the 1310 is a weaker joint. The benefit of the aftermarket is it allows you to adjust pinion angle.

Your factory shafts extends and collapses as well. And yes smaller is weaker. A 1330 u joint is stronger than a 1310.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
swampdog said:
The Tom Woods shaft apparently comes with shitty joints unless you specify you want the upgrade to Spicer joints. Most stick with JE Reel, Adams, or Coast.

Also, I believe the 1310 driveshaft is smaller than the stock driveshaft, so it really wouldn't be an upgrade...can anyone confirm this?
Click to expand...

This ^^^ I personally wouldn't recommend a Woods shaft unless you pay to have it upgraded with Neapco or Spicer joints. I have seen his "Gold Seal" joints fail time and time again and for what looked like no good reason.

OverlanderJK said:
Factory is a 1330 meaning the 1310 is a weaker joint. The benefit of the aftermarket is it allows you to adjust pinion angle.

Your factory shafts extends and collapses as well. And yes smaller is weaker. A 1330 u joint is stronger than a 1310.
Click to expand...

This is correct. A 1310 is a weaker joint.
 
Dopey84

Dopey84

New member
MedixJK said:
Is your jeep lifted at all? Or are you planning to? The real benefit of an aftermarket u joint style shaft is better clearance and ability to handle steeper driveline angles associated with lifting your jeep.
Click to expand...

Not really lifted atm.. I'm running the Evo leveling kit... I'm just not positive that once I go to 35's and start wheeling it that the stock front driveshaft will hold up... So wanting something better
 
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