About to lift... making sure I've covered the bases.

TooTall

TooTall

New member
'12 JKUR auto with Evo skids as it sits right now.

Going with the Rock Krawler 2.5 Max Travel system. Stock rims for now wrapped in 35/1250-17 Nitto TGs.

The kit comes with an adjustable front track bar and relocation bracket for the back to correct the axle shift.

I've read about the drag link flip kit. Some have recommended, others say its not necessary for a 2.5 lift. Thoughts?

Recommended bump stop extensions??

Got the spidertrax 1.5 to correct for back spacing.

Going to get Bilstein 5100 shocks as well. Not sure I know what length I should order for this. Help!

Front drive shaft is not going to be an initial swap. Going to keep an eye on it and take it from there.

The jeep has approx 55K on it. Would it be a good idea to change the ball joints while we have it torn apart? Not noticing any problems at this time.

Anyone running a 35" tire on their stock tire carrier? Bumpers/tire carrier are in the future but just not at this stage. I know evolander ran a 37 with the teraflex carrier if I am not mistaken. That's an option if we can't come up with a temporary solution.

AEV procal tuner to correct speedometer and computer.

C gussets eventually.

Alignment after were done.


Aaaaaaand go! Appreciate any and all thoughts/concerns.
 
TooTall said:
Anyone running a 35" tire on their stock tire carrier? Bumpers/tire carrier are in the future but just not at this stage. I know evolander ran a 37 with the teraflex carrier if I am not mistaken. That's an option if we can't come up with a temporary solution.
Click to expand...

To be clear, the EVOlander build is utilizing the "stock" Jeep Spare Tire Carrier and NOT the TF carrier.
 
TooTall said:
The kit comes with an adjustable front track bar and relocation bracket for the back to correct the axle shift.

I've read about the drag link flip kit. Some have recommended, others say its not necessary for a 2.5 lift. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

Totally not necessary and can actually cause over correction if your new adjustable track bar minimum length is too long.

Recommended bump stop extensions??
Click to expand...

If your kit doesn't already come with them, yeah, I most certainly would recommend a set an at about the same height as you are lifting your Jeep.

Going to get Bilstein 5100 shocks as well. Not sure I know what length I should order for this. Help!

Front drive shaft is not going to be an initial swap. Going to keep an eye on it and take it from there.
Click to expand...

If you're not going to replace your front shaft, you will want shocks that are stock length or ones that are just 2" longer than stock. Anymore than that and you will damage your shaft when it hits your exhaust cross over.

The jeep has approx 55K on it. Would it be a good idea to change the ball joints while we have it torn apart? Not noticing any problems at this time.
Click to expand...

No need to do more work than is needed at this time.

Anyone running a 35" tire on their stock tire carrier? Bumpers/tire carrier are in the future but just not at this stage. I know evolander ran a 37 with the teraflex carrier if I am not mistaken. That's an option if we can't come up with a temporary solution.
Click to expand...

I've done it for a long time on our old 2009 sunburst orange JK. So long as you make sure that the sidewall of the spare is pressing firmly against the rubber isolators, you will be fine. Trust me, in spite of what some people will try to sell you, the factory hinges are VERY STRONG and they will hold up just fine.

AEV procal tuner to correct speedometer and computer.
Click to expand...

Make sure to measure from the ground to the edge of the shoulder and not the top of the tread.

C gussets eventually.
Click to expand...

Definitely

Alignment after were done.
Click to expand...

This is something you can do yourself:

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?3861-Basic-Do-it-Yourself-Jeep-JK-Wrangler-Front-End-Alignment
 
wayoflife said:
If you're not going to replace your front shaft, you will want shocks that are stock length or ones that are just 2" longer than stock. Anymore than that and you will damage your shaft when it hits your exhaust cross over.
Click to expand...

Bilstein sells 5100's made for 2.5" of lift... are these too much for a stock front DS?
 
JKWrang said:
Bilstein sells 5100's made for 2.5" of lift... are these too much for a stock front DS?
Click to expand...

More than likely. Most of the BB kits being sold today for a 2012-up come with shocks that are about stock length. Most of the shocks being sold for a 2.5" lift are made for kits that have 2.5" coils and offer the amount of droop you would want for them.
 
wayoflife said:
THIS!! Do not waste your money on a TeraFlex carrier, it is over priced, not needed and potentially dangerous.
Click to expand...

He stands very true to this I've seen a TF tire carrier break or actually the weld some how came apart and could have hit a vehicle going down the road luckily he wasn't at the time! Very poorly made product and if I am correct I believe they are made in China?!


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
wayoflife said:
If your kit doesn't already come with them, yeah, I most certainly would recommend a set an at about the same height as you are lifting your Jeep.
Click to expand...

The kit does not come with them. I am thinking about using the teraflex bumpstops front and rear. Their rear bumpstops are 3" though. That's not going to be a big deal, correct? You can mix these components if I am not mistaken? Thanks
 
You can mix any parts you want. You don't want bunp stops that are longer that the amount of lift you're getting because that will limit your up travel


Sent from my phone?
 
TooTall said:
The kit does not come with them. I am thinking about using the teraflex bumpstops front and rear. Their rear bumpstops are 3" though. That's not going to be a big deal, correct? You can mix these components if I am not mistaken? Thanks
Click to expand...

As mentioned, you most certainly can mix and match parts but I personally would recommend that you get bump stops that are no greater than the amount of lift you are installing. I would also try to get front bump stop extensions that attach to the axle as opposed to extending from the bump stop cup. This will help prevent your coils from getting caught up in them.
 
wayoflife said:
Totally not necessary and can actually cause over correction if your new adjustable track bar minimum length is too long.



If your kit doesn't already come with them, yeah, I most certainly would recommend a set an at about the same height as you are lifting your Jeep.



If you're not going to replace your front shaft, you will want shocks that are stock length or ones that are just 2" longer than stock. Anymore than that and you will damage your shaft when it hits your exhaust cross over.



No need to do more work than is needed at this time.



I've done it for a long time on our old 2009 sunburst orange JK. So long as you make sure that the sidewall of the spare is pressing firmly against the rubber isolators, you will be fine. Trust me, in spite of what some people will try to sell you, the factory hinges are VERY STRONG and they will hold up just fine.



Make sure to measure from the ground to the edge of the shoulder and not the top of the tread.



Definitely



This is something you can do yourself:

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?3861-Basic-Do-it-Yourself-Jeep-JK-Wrangler-Front-End-Alignment
Click to expand...

Can you elaborate a bit more on this? You measure from the ground to the edge of the tire rather than the top of the tire? Someone told me to measure from the ground to the center of the centercap and multiply by 2, which will give me the tire diameter which includes the natural compression of the tire. Any thoughts?
 
wayoflife said:
THIS!! Do not waste your money on a TeraFlex carrier, it is over priced, not needed and potentially dangerous.
Click to expand...

I was going to ask you about this as well, just for the sake of accuracy (Im not planning on running a Teraflex carrier but figured others might be interested.) The "carrier" comes in two parts...the hinge (big black flat piece) and the carrier (replaces the stock one that holds the tire.) Which piece do you have beef with? It seems like the carrier is the problem, not the hinge right?
 
NFRs2000NYC said:
Can you elaborate a bit more on this? You measure from the ground to the edge of the tire rather than the top of the tire? Someone told me to measure from the ground to the center of the centercap and multiply by 2, which will give me the tire diameter which includes the natural compression of the tire. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Doing it your way will give you the exact same answer only you have to use math to get the number you need. :crazyeyes:

NFRs2000NYC said:
I was going to ask you about this as well, just for the sake of accuracy (Im not planning on running a Teraflex carrier but figured others might be interested.) The "carrier" comes in two parts...the hinge (big black flat piece) and the carrier (replaces the stock one that holds the tire.) Which piece do you have beef with? It seems like the carrier is the problem, not the hinge right?
Click to expand...

My first beef is with the notion that the factory tailgate hinges are weak and somehow need to be replaced if you want to carry a bigger spare tire. This is absolute bunk. My concern is with it's tire carrier as it does come in two pieces and, at least the original design did not come with a mounting surface that was reinforced. However, even if it were, IF you do not make sure that the spare tire is pressing firmly up against the bracket, the jiggling it will see will be enough to cause it to fail. In other words, IF you get this $700 tire carrier that is totally not needed, you need to make sure that you run a wheel with back spacing that will ensure a proper fit. A good wheel like an ATX bead lock which has 3.5" of back spacing will NOT work with their tire carrier.
 
I have the 3.5" flex system with 35" toyo mts and stock fenders. Im running 2" bump stops front and rear, if you are going to cut your fenders, i'd still run 2" bump stops because I do rub a little at full flex.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 4
 
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1381438809.211928.jpgImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1381438838.394604.jpg
I run my 35 on my stock carrier. But it's not a stock rim, so back spacing will be an issue.
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1381438893.261987.jpg
I had to have a spacer when I still had the rear bumper on.
 
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