Air actuated no limits swaybar disco

NevadaZielmeister

Caught the Bug
If I were to swap it out on my Rubicon would the light still activate when the sway bar is disconnected or is that indicator disabled?

I am going to take a guess here. I suspect that since it is air activated, that it would require some aftermarket control unit to control the air compressor solenoid, correct? If that is the case, then yes, the stock sway bar light would be inoperative. However, I could be wrong and I hope maybe there might be a work around.

The one thing I hate about the stock Rubicon version is how it automatically reconnects the sway bar when my speed reaches over 18mph, which is stupid since I might want to go faster than that in the desert.

I am looking forward to my stock sway bar disconnect to stop working so I can justify this upgrade.
 

NevadaZielmeister

Caught the Bug
Why not sell your motor now why it's still worth something? Lots of people out there that want to keep it stock.

Now that's a thought, good idea. I might look into this. The only problem I foresee is that I could sell the motor for like what, $100? Might be better just to wait, I don't know. Unless someone wants to pay $300 for the motor, which I doubt.
 

Evil

New member
Rather than start a new thread I am just going to add this here.......

When you buy the kit, this is all that comes in the box.
IMG_0107.jpg

Aside from OBA, you will need to get a few things to get this this working. You can source the parts on your own like the air line and fitting to save a little bit or just find the cheapest price on the ARB stuff.
5mm air line. I am going with the ARB line to match the front locker. Part # 170301 ($18.98 shipped)
arb-170301-_2__5760.jpg

ARB solenoid. This is the same one used on the lockers. Part # 180103SP ($ between $62.00 and $85.00 each, search for the lowest priced one you can find. I paid $62.00 shipped for the one pictured)
IMG_0108.jpg

You will then need this fitting that screws into the solenoid. ARB Part # ARB-170201 ($8.47+$4.99 shipping from Morris4x4 was the cheapest I could find)
arb-170201_3075.jpg

Your also going to need a way to power the solenoid so I will leave the cost out because some guys may have a SPOD ready to go or another type of switch system to power it. Just figure in what you have and/or what you want, just know that you have to power it.

Last but not least, a Pro Cal to turn off the flashing sway bar light that will appear on your dash after disconnecting the wire harness. Not sure if any other tuners turn off the SB light but check into your application. (AEV Pro Cal $170.00)
pc.jpg

More updates to follow once I receive all the misc parts I ordered and install it.
 

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Rather than start a new thread I am just going to add this here.......

When you buy the kit, this is all that comes in the box.
View attachment 218069

Aside from OBA, you will need to get a few things to get this this working. You can source the parts on your own like the air line and fitting to save a little bit or just find the cheapest price on the ARB stuff.
5mm air line. I am going with the ARB line to match the front locker. Part # 170301 ($18.98 shipped)
View attachment 218070

ARB solenoid. This is the same one used on the lockers. Part # 180103SP ($ between $62.00 and $85.00 each, search for the lowest priced one you can find. I paid $62.00 shipped for the one pictured)
View attachment 218076

You will then need this fitting that screws into the solenoid. ARB Part # ARB-170201 ($8.47+$4.99 shipping from Morris4x4 was the cheapest I could find)
View attachment 218077

Your also going to need a way to power the solenoid so I will leave the cost out because some guys may have a SPOD ready to go or another type of switch system to power it. Just figure in what you have and/or what you want, just know that you have to power it.

Last but not least, a Pro Cal to turn off the flashing sway bar light that will appear on your dash after disconnecting the wire harness. Not sure if any other tuners turn off the SB light but check into your application. (AEV Pro Cal $170.00)
View attachment 218078

More updates to follow once I receive all the misc parts I ordered and install it.

Thanks for posting this up evil!
 

notnalc68

That dude from Mississippi
Rather than start a new thread I am just going to add this here.......

When you buy the kit, this is all that comes in the box.
View attachment 218069

Aside from OBA, you will need to get a few things to get this this working. You can source the parts on your own like the air line and fitting to save a little bit or just find the cheapest price on the ARB stuff.
5mm air line. I am going with the ARB line to match the front locker. Part # 170301 ($18.98 shipped)
View attachment 218070

ARB solenoid. This is the same one used on the lockers. Part # 180103SP ($ between $62.00 and $85.00 each, search for the lowest priced one you can find. I paid $62.00 shipped for the one pictured)
View attachment 218076

You will then need this fitting that screws into the solenoid. ARB Part # ARB-170201 ($8.47+$4.99 shipping from Morris4x4 was the cheapest I could find)
View attachment 218077

Your also going to need a way to power the solenoid so I will leave the cost out because some guys may have a SPOD ready to go or another type of switch system to power it. Just figure in what you have and/or what you want, just know that you have to power it.

Last but not least, a Pro Cal to turn off the flashing sway bar light that will appear on your dash after disconnecting the wire harness. Not sure if any other tuners turn off the SB light but check into your application. (AEV Pro Cal $170.00)
View attachment 218078

More updates to follow once I receive all the misc parts I ordered and install it.

Thanks, man. That's good info.
 

NevadaZielmeister

Caught the Bug
I understand what Evil is saying and I like the write up. I also see how your get electrical power to the system, but what about air? Do you have ideas for people who already have two lockers running off of their on board system? It would seem that they would need another port. So......how to go about that?

Thank you for the post Evil!!
 

swampdog

New member
I understand what Evil is saying and I like the write up. I also see how your get electrical power to the system, but what about air? Do you have ideas for people who already have two lockers running off of their on board system? It would seem that they would need another port. So......how to go about that?

Thank you for the post Evil!!

A T-Tap off the top of one of the existing air ports with the correct threaded couplings could run 2 solenoids.
 

Exodus 4x4

New member
A T-Tap off the top of one of the existing air ports with the correct threaded couplings could run 2 solenoids.

I've never seen on these fancy shmancy air manifolds but I bet you could drill and tap it pretty easy IF you didn't want to put a T in place.
 

swampdog

New member
I've never seen on these fancy shmancy air manifolds but I bet you could drill and tap it pretty easy IF you didn't want to put a T in place.

This all seems fancy schmancy to me. $350 (no limits, solenoid, air like and nipple) so you don't have to bend down in a parking lot and disconnect using 2 cotter pins while you are airing down seems crazy, but if people pay for it I can't argue.
 
Last edited:

Exodus 4x4

New member
This all seems fancy schmancy to me. $300 buck (no limits, solenoid, air like and nipple) so you don't have to bend down in a parking lot and disconnect 2 cotter pints while you are airing down seems crazy, but if people of it I can't argue.

I hear you. My rubicon came with it. Honestly if the shit breaks I'll probably just get the manual evo no limits. Same reason I'll switch to an OX locker when I upgrade me rear. I like knowing I'm not at the mercy of the electrical or air system.
 

NevadaZielmeister

Caught the Bug
This all seems fancy schmancy to me. $350 (no limits, solenoid, air like and nipple) so you don't have to bend down in a parking lot and disconnect using 2 cotter pins while you are airing down seems crazy, but if people pay for it I can't argue.

For people who live not 5 minutes from wheeling, it is a huge benefit. Also, who wants to jump up and down on their rig to get the disconnects to line up to reconnect their seay bar? This is so easy and safer than the manual disconnect links.

Airing down is not necessary when I wheel since it is already aired down. With children and wife, time is at a premium.

Here is 15 minutes from my front door:

ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1471620289.124106.jpg
 

NevadaZielmeister

Caught the Bug
I have nothing helpful to add to this thread, just stopping by to drool [emoji12]

Great looking rig!

Thank you Napalm. Right back at all of the peeps here for being so helpful with information and references in getting this thing built. You each know who you are, even the ones that called me names while I learned. I get it. Thank you.
 
Top Bottom