WJCO
Meme King
Not related at all.
Basic Do-it-Yourself Jeep JK Wrangler Front End Alignment
- Thread starter wayoflife
- Start date
Not related at all.
dhughes16
New member
Ok, then what could be the culprit? My BJs are relatively new, my pinion angle is just above 4.2 degrees, no movement or bend in the track bar when turning the wheels...
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
How much lift are you running and do you have a drag link flip/track bar relocation bracket installed? If so, is the track bar relocated at the axle or dropped from the frame?
dhughes16
New member
I have a 4” lift. The track bar has a bracket at the axle and I don’t have the flip yet but I still have the drop pitman arm so the drag link and track bar are pretty damn close to parallel to each other
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
How close to parallel are they to your axle? can you post up a pick of what your steering geometry looks like.
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
dhughes16
New member
Could just be me but your track bar looks like it doesn’t have enough correction. It doesn’t look parallel to your drag link. That would cause what you’re feeling.
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
dhughes16
New member
Ok, so I’m planning on switching to 3.5” coils soon, do you think that would help fix it more or is there something else I should do like get a taller bracket? That being said, im assuming the DL flip wouldn’t help the issue? Or am I wrong there too?
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Installing lower springs would still leave you with a track bar and drag link that aren’t parallel. I would definitely get rid of the dropped pitman arm and install a drag link flip but I would make sure to get one that comes with its own track bar relocation bracket. That will help ensure they will be parallel to each other.
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
dhughes16
New member
Front and rear issue
Took my truck to 2 shops. One was suppose to be top notch here in nor cal.
She still floats a bit.
Found the front passenger side lca to be shorter than the drivers side. One side driver side is at about 91 and passenger is about 90.
I assume that needs to be corrected. Not sure if that would keep me from tracking in a straight line at low speeds.
So I took a look at the rear and seen my rear spring bent on both sides. And the driver side tire is sticking out more than the passenger.
I have a MC rear adjustable tracking bar. When installing it I remember having to use ratchet straps to pull the d44 over in order to line up the TB hole.
I'm a noob here, so I wanted to know do you measure the wheel to fender on both sides to figure out how many inches I need to pull this d44 over? Or is there a better method?
It looks like the axle need to come forward also but I'm not sure by how much. Till the springs sit straight up and down?
I'll be calling MC also later on but wanted to see if WOL experts could chime in also.
These springs been sitting like this for like a yr and a half. I have just been dealing with the way she drives but I know it has to drive better than this.
08 Jk sahara
3.5 MC ome lift
35'' tires
Manual
One other thing, I was going to keep my stock ds due to aftermarket ds issues I have been researching. I rather the ds tear and replace then vibration to TC exploding. I have a shot of the angle. Does it look about right?
I just don't have all the time in the world to diy everything. I have lost hope in shops after losing my shirt to something it seems I have to make happen on my own.
Any suggestions? Thanks.
Took my truck to 2 shops. One was suppose to be top notch here in nor cal.
She still floats a bit.
Found the front passenger side lca to be shorter than the drivers side. One side driver side is at about 91 and passenger is about 90.
I assume that needs to be corrected. Not sure if that would keep me from tracking in a straight line at low speeds.
So I took a look at the rear and seen my rear spring bent on both sides. And the driver side tire is sticking out more than the passenger.
I have a MC rear adjustable tracking bar. When installing it I remember having to use ratchet straps to pull the d44 over in order to line up the TB hole.
I'm a noob here, so I wanted to know do you measure the wheel to fender on both sides to figure out how many inches I need to pull this d44 over? Or is there a better method?
It looks like the axle need to come forward also but I'm not sure by how much. Till the springs sit straight up and down?
I'll be calling MC also later on but wanted to see if WOL experts could chime in also.
These springs been sitting like this for like a yr and a half. I have just been dealing with the way she drives but I know it has to drive better than this.
08 Jk sahara
3.5 MC ome lift
35'' tires
Manual
One other thing, I was going to keep my stock ds due to aftermarket ds issues I have been researching. I rather the ds tear and replace then vibration to TC exploding. I have a shot of the angle. Does it look about right?
I just don't have all the time in the world to diy everything. I have lost hope in shops after losing my shirt to something it seems I have to make happen on my own.
Any suggestions? Thanks.
Attachments
The CV boot on your drive shaft is in a constant state of pinch. It WILL fail sooner than later and when it does, grease will spit out and you will see this on the bottom of your Jeep. After that, it'll only be a matter of time before the bearing fail. Once you start to hear them make a ratcheting sound, they're just about done. Just an FYI to know what to look for being that you want to keep your factory shaft.
Your rear coils look about right assuming your pinion angle has been corrected. This of course is totally unnecessary with factory rzeppa shafts. Regardless, it will not effect the way your Jeep handles.
What ever drift you're feeling has nothing to do with your axle being off centered. That has everything to do with your track bar and it's just the nature of the beast. Looking at your pics, it looks like your rear axle is shifted to the driver side? If that is correct, load up the rear end of your Jeep and it'll look more centered again.
Your lower control arms should be the same length eye to eye. The front uppers should be set equal as well and until you have 4° of caster. In the rear, your pinion and output shaft should be parallel from the factory but if you're running an aftermarket shaft, the pinion should be set in line with your drive shaft. Of course, with an rzeppa shaft, it really doesn't matter too much.
Your rear coils look about right assuming your pinion angle has been corrected. This of course is totally unnecessary with factory rzeppa shafts. Regardless, it will not effect the way your Jeep handles.
What ever drift you're feeling has nothing to do with your axle being off centered. That has everything to do with your track bar and it's just the nature of the beast. Looking at your pics, it looks like your rear axle is shifted to the driver side? If that is correct, load up the rear end of your Jeep and it'll look more centered again.
Your lower control arms should be the same length eye to eye. The front uppers should be set equal as well and until you have 4° of caster. In the rear, your pinion and output shaft should be parallel from the factory but if you're running an aftermarket shaft, the pinion should be set in line with your drive shaft. Of course, with an rzeppa shaft, it really doesn't matter too much.
WJCO
Meme King
An inch off is a ton, fix that right away or you may break a bracket. That's a lot.
Put a long flat piece of steel up against the outside of the tire. Then measure to a fixed point (like your frame). Repeat that on the other side. That should get you a starting point. Keep in mind that your track bar is at a diagonal angle, so if you want it PERFECT, you would have to use a little trigonometry
. But it doesn't need to be perfect, just get it close, as the axle moves sideways any time it cycles anyways.You should try to get the wheels centered in the wheel well. Then fine tune from there if needed.
An aftermarket drive shaft will work fine if you get a good product and set it up right. How many actual inches did you gain when it was lifted?
An aftermarket drive shaft will work fine if you get a good product and set it up right. How many actual inches did you gain when it was lifted?[/QUOTE]
I'm not sure. I have to measure. I can wench stuff but I don't always understand what I'm doing.
What Eddie said about loading the back turned on my light bulb. Makes sense.
Balancing the tracking bar will require more reading on my part. I'm sure glad a asked. You guys are FAST!
Im seriously grateful for the responses.
Thank you both!
I'll measure later on. I assume I'm looking at the top of the tire to the fender for lift gain.
Again, you guys could be doing much more important things and yet you took the time to read and answer my post. I'm really grateful for the direction.
I'm not sure. I have to measure. I can wench stuff but I don't always understand what I'm doing.
What Eddie said about loading the back turned on my light bulb. Makes sense.
Balancing the tracking bar will require more reading on my part. I'm sure glad a asked. You guys are FAST!
Im seriously grateful for the responses.
Thank you both!
I'll measure later on. I assume I'm looking at the top of the tire to the fender for lift gain.
Again, you guys could be doing much more important things and yet you took the time to read and answer my post. I'm really grateful for the direction.
black pearl
Hooked
I'm not sure. I have to measure. I can wench stuff but I don't always understand what I'm doing.
What Eddie said about loading the back turned on my light bulb. Makes sense.
Balancing the tracking bar will require more reading on my part. I'm sure glad a asked. You guys are FAST!
Im seriously grateful for the responses.
Thank you both!
I'll measure later on. I assume I'm looking at the top of the tire to the fender for lift gain.
Again, you guys could be doing much more important things and yet you took the time to read and answer my post. I'm really grateful for the direction.[/QUOTE]
Here's how to find actual lift these are stock measurements and the points to measure from
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
black pearl
Hooked
If you get your front end dialed in. Caster,tow and well balanced wheels you should be able to run without a SS. And love the way it drives.
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
An aftermarket drive shaft will work fine if you get a good product and set it up right. How many actual inches did you gain when it was lifted?[/QUOTE]
Tried to measure and take pics with my tablet with one hand.
Looks like 4 inches or close to it.
Had to clean out the insides of the MC arms. Had rust in it and it's only 2yrs old.
Turning out to take a lot longer than I thought it would. Jeez.
As for the tracking bar being parallel to the draglink....I was looking on how to do it. I seen a string method with no how to and a bunch of eye balling.
I would love perfect but I still need to know if eye balling or this unexplained string method how to is posted anywhere.
Been researching for the past week in between my vinegar water rust cleaning repainting MC arm sessions.
I thought the zinc plate was suppose to keep that from happening.
Live and learn.
Tried to measure and take pics with my tablet with one hand.
Looks like 4 inches or close to it.
Had to clean out the insides of the MC arms. Had rust in it and it's only 2yrs old.
Turning out to take a lot longer than I thought it would. Jeez.
As for the tracking bar being parallel to the draglink....I was looking on how to do it. I seen a string method with no how to and a bunch of eye balling.
I would love perfect but I still need to know if eye balling or this unexplained string method how to is posted anywhere.
Been researching for the past week in between my vinegar water rust cleaning repainting MC arm sessions.
I thought the zinc plate was suppose to keep that from happening.
Live and learn.
Attachments
WJCO
Meme King
Not sure if there's a how to method, but I've done it before. You just tape a piece of string along the track bar from pivot point to pivot point. Then do the exact same with the draglink with another piece of string. You will be able to see if they're close enough to parallel just by looking at it. Pictures below show an incorrect one and then a correct one.
Also another method, take a good clear picture of the front end with both bars showing up in the picture. Then on your computer, use a photo editing program and DRAW a line through them both and see if the lines are parallel.
