christmas dash with abs brake trac esp bas all lights lit after the mud pond

OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
fiend said:
Reviving an old thread. I was heading up to run the Rubicon recently. On the highway, the cruise control suddenly shut off and the ABS and ESP/BAS lights came on. Jeep otherwise drove normally, so I kept going. On the trail, once in 4WD, the Jeep would drop in and out of limp mode. I pulled the J6 and J7 fuses (ABS/TCS) and that stopped the limp mode issue, although the speedometer, odometer, and some other things stopped working. It also caused the check engine and parking brake lights to come on. The battery light also came on periodically. I pulled the following codes: U1110, U1120, and P0501.

Once or twice while on the trail I tried putting the fuses back in, but the limp mode issue was still there, so I finished out the run and the rest of my vacation without the fuses. Aside from a couple of instances of limp mode, I was able to drive the 400 miles home without serious problems.

When I got home I looked up the codes and learned the following:

U1110
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) receives the vehicle speed signal over the Controlled Area Network (CAN) C bus from the Anti-lock Brake Module. The Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) sets The PCM/ECM doesn't receive a vehicle speed signal from the Anti-Lock Brake Module over the CAN C bus.

U1120
The Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) sets when the PCM doesn't receive a vehicle speed signal from the Anti-Lock Brake System Module over the CAN C bus.


P0501
means that the vehicle's speed as read by the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is outside of the expected range (too high or low for example). The VSS input is used by the vehicle's main computer called a PCM/ECM powertrain/engine control module along with other inputs for proper operation of the vehicle systems.

Since I replaced all the wheel speed sensors just a couple of months ago, it seems probable that the issue is the ABS module, which supposedly needs to be calibrated by a dealer. Before I headed to the dealer, I put the J6 and J7 fuses back in, thinking I might have to take some quiet neighborhood streets and fight limp mode to get there. Wouldn’t you know it, all the dash lights went off and the Jeep drove normally. No problems at all.

I explained all this to the dealer and asked them to check out the ABS module. They called back today and told me their tech thinks the problem is worn unit bearings, which they proposed to replace for $1100, parts and labor. Aside from the ridiculous price (I can get both bearings for about $200 and do the work myself), I’m skeptical that worn unit bearings could be the problem. Anyone else experienced the problem I had? Any reason the believe the dealership tech is correct or full of BS?


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Do you have a manual? Mine won’t shift if I pull J7. I have intermittent issues with ABS/TCS/Hill Descent. I pulled J6 and it’s been fine for a couple weeks.


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A.J.

A.J.

Active Member
fiend said:
Reviving an old thread. I was heading up to run the Rubicon recently. On the highway, the cruise control suddenly shut off and the ABS and ESP/BAS lights came on. Jeep otherwise drove normally, so I kept going. On the trail, once in 4WD, the Jeep would drop in and out of limp mode. I pulled the J6 and J7 fuses (ABS/TCS) and that stopped the limp mode issue, although the speedometer, odometer, and some other things stopped working. It also caused the check engine and parking brake lights to come on. The battery light also came on periodically. I pulled the following codes: U1110, U1120, and P0501.

Once or twice while on the trail I tried putting the fuses back in, but the limp mode issue was still there, so I finished out the run and the rest of my vacation without the fuses. Aside from a couple of instances of limp mode, I was able to drive the 400 miles home without serious problems.

When I got home I looked up the codes and learned the following:

U1110
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) receives the vehicle speed signal over the Controlled Area Network (CAN) C bus from the Anti-lock Brake Module. The Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) sets The PCM/ECM doesn't receive a vehicle speed signal from the Anti-Lock Brake Module over the CAN C bus.

U1120
The Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) sets when the PCM doesn't receive a vehicle speed signal from the Anti-Lock Brake System Module over the CAN C bus.


P0501
means that the vehicle's speed as read by the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is outside of the expected range (too high or low for example). The VSS input is used by the vehicle's main computer called a PCM/ECM powertrain/engine control module along with other inputs for proper operation of the vehicle systems.

Since I replaced all the wheel speed sensors just a couple of months ago, it seems probable that the issue is the ABS module, which supposedly needs to be calibrated by a dealer. Before I headed to the dealer, I put the J6 and J7 fuses back in, thinking I might have to take some quiet neighborhood streets and fight limp mode to get there. Wouldn’t you know it, all the dash lights went off and the Jeep drove normally. No problems at all.

I explained all this to the dealer and asked them to check out the ABS module. They called back today and told me their tech thinks the problem is worn unit bearings, which they proposed to replace for $1100, parts and labor. Aside from the ridiculous price (I can get both bearings for about $200 and do the work myself), I’m skeptical that worn unit bearings could be the problem. Anyone else experienced the problem I had? Any reason the believe the dealership tech is correct or full of BS?


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I had a similar instance once. Turned out one of the abs plugs came loose when I hit a big bump. Found it and plugged it back in (correctly this time) no more problem. Check unit bearings. If there is any movement replace them. It seems plausible especially if the problem was intermittent and went away.


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Seahawkfan

Seahawkfan

Hooked
jdofmemi said:
I know when I had a worn unit bearing, I had the same dash lights and symptoms, so that part is feasible.

It also sounds like a good excuse to cut the cord to the stability control, and put it on a switch. I have lights on the dash all the time, but no performance issues, and the Jeep don't piss me off on corners, onramps, or anywhere else.

The only side effect I found I didn't like was that it will upshift while going down a steep grade, but that is easily countered by slipping the transmission into manual mode.
Click to expand...

When I first bought my jeep that Stability Control kicked on doing 75 on the freeway. Scared the shit out of me. I then did the "steering wheel dance" thing to shut it off and it's never happened again, forget exactly what it was. Never tried doing doughnuts though.:thumb: Is there a difference from 2011 and 2012 up that you would need a switch? I also have had failed battery and battery disconnected several times over the years and never did the "steering wheel dance" again. Does the computer save that forever? Thanks
 
fiend

fiend

Caught the Bug
Thanks for the responses gents. I guess I’ll do the unit bearings and hope that takes care of it.


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Ddays

Ddays

Hooked
Seahawkfan said:
When I first bought my jeep that Stability Control kicked on doing 75 on the freeway. Scared the shit out of me. I then did the "steering wheel dance" thing to shut it off and it's never happened again, forget exactly what it was. Never tried doing doughnuts though.:thumb: Is there a difference from 2011 and 2012 up that you would need a switch? I also have had failed battery and battery disconnected several times over the years and never did the "steering wheel dance" again. Does the computer save that forever? Thanks
Click to expand...

Steering wheel dance won't work on 12 & up - you gotta cut the cord
 
mjr11

mjr11

Member
fiend said:
Reviving an old thread. I was heading up to run the Rubicon recently. On the highway, the cruise control suddenly shut off and the ABS and ESP/BAS lights came on. Jeep otherwise drove normally, so I kept going. On the trail, once in 4WD, the Jeep would drop in and out of limp mode. I pulled the J6 and J7 fuses (ABS/TCS) and that stopped the limp mode issue, although the speedometer, odometer, and some other things stopped working. It also caused the check engine and parking brake lights to come on. The battery light also came on periodically. I pulled the following codes: U1110, U1120, and P0501.

Once or twice while on the trail I tried putting the fuses back in, but the limp mode issue was still there, so I finished out the run and the rest of my vacation without the fuses. Aside from a couple of instances of limp mode, I was able to drive the 400 miles home without serious problems.

When I got home I looked up the codes and learned the following:

U1110
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) receives the vehicle speed signal over the Controlled Area Network (CAN) C bus from the Anti-lock Brake Module. The Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) sets The PCM/ECM doesn't receive a vehicle speed signal from the Anti-Lock Brake Module over the CAN C bus.

U1120
The Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) sets when the PCM doesn't receive a vehicle speed signal from the Anti-Lock Brake System Module over the CAN C bus.


P0501
means that the vehicle's speed as read by the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is outside of the expected range (too high or low for example). The VSS input is used by the vehicle's main computer called a PCM/ECM powertrain/engine control module along with other inputs for proper operation of the vehicle systems.

Since I replaced all the wheel speed sensors just a couple of months ago, it seems probable that the issue is the ABS module, which supposedly needs to be calibrated by a dealer. Before I headed to the dealer, I put the J6 and J7 fuses back in, thinking I might have to take some quiet neighborhood streets and fight limp mode to get there. Wouldn’t you know it, all the dash lights went off and the Jeep drove normally. No problems at all.

I explained all this to the dealer and asked them to check out the ABS module. They called back today and told me their tech thinks the problem is worn unit bearings, which they proposed to replace for $1100, parts and labor. Aside from the ridiculous price (I can get both bearings for about $200 and do the work myself), I’m skeptical that worn unit bearings could be the problem. Anyone else experienced the problem I had? Any reason the believe the dealership tech is correct or full of BS?


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Click to expand...

I just had the same problem recently. Driving down the highway and cruise kicked of and the abs and traction control lights came on. I made it home without going into limp mode and for the next week the lights would randomly come and go until they eventually stayed lit all of the time. Took it to the dealer and they replaced the unit bearing resolving the issue.


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