In hindsight I did let it fester. I just re-torqued and didn't address the root cause and the symptoms got worse each subsequent time it occurred. I didn't check until after each wheeling trip so it's even possible that bolt backed off even in city driving. I can't say. I now check all the suspension components at each oil change, plus after wheeling. Hopefully that's enough.
DEATH WOBBLE : What it is, What it isn't and What You Can Do to Fix it
- Thread starter wayoflife
- Start date
In hindsight I did let it fester. I just re-torqued and didn't address the root cause and the symptoms got worse each subsequent time it occurred. I didn't check until after each wheeling trip so it's even possible that bolt backed off even in city driving. I can't say. I now check all the suspension components at each oil change, plus after wheeling. Hopefully that's enough.
cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
that happened to mine. my tack bar hole got egg shaped. had it fixed by welding on a washer on either side to clean it up
Okay, let's take a step back and look at what the real problem might have been. Looking at your profile, I see that the lift you installed was the RC Series II 3.5" kit. Is it safe to assume you installed the front track bar relocation bracket that came with the kit too? I looked at your video but you were just focused on your draglink TRE.
Wheels that unbalanced can cause bolts to loosen up. Loose bolts can cause DW. Let it happen long enough and mounting holes will wollow out.
Just to prove a point here, the 9/16" grade 8 bolt that the financial advisor recommends made NO DIFFERENCE.
As I have already stated, loose or worn out suspension/steering components can instigate DW. Vertical movement in your TRE's is a clear sign of a worn out joint. The question you should be asking is, why did it wear out so quickly?
It's been addressed. I welded my Rancho stabilizer's mounting plate to the bracket, which overlays the front hole, and I have a thick grade 8 washer welded to the back side where the flag nut used to be. I'm watching it closely. Eventually I'll be replacing it all with a new weld-on track bar bracket when I finally upgrade the lift. With my limited budget (3 kids) it's a slow process.
I didn't use the relo bracket or drop pitman arm. Opted instead for an adjustable track bar.
The suggestion to replace the bolts came from other sources including JKF. I must have missed where he suggested it. All Im saying is I learned how to check for slop in the ball joints from his vid. I'm a visual guy. I never intended to cause a stir here :doh:
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3.5" is enough lift that you really would benefit from some kind of steering correction. The steep angle that your drag link has been sitting at is what most likely caused it to fail prematurely. Likewise, it could have contributed to your track bar bolt coming loose as well.
Oh, I realize that. There's been a lot of 'hype' about replacing bolts and he's just one of many that have been promoting it. As far as ball joints go, the only thing you need to know is that rotational movement is normal. Up and down or side to side shifting is not.
LOL!! No stir was caused - planman is just kind of a butt of a joke is all.
No need to waste your money on overpriced orange knuckles and steering arms. I can guarantee you that you will still hit your tie-rod. You'd be better off buying an HD tie-rod like what Currie makes and get a drag link flip/front track bar relocation kit. That'll get your steering geometry corrected and get you a tie rod that can take a beating.
Thanks, I used the wrong term
I've been looking at the Currie setup with the Synergy bracket, though the Ruff Stuff DIY kit is interesting.
toxicwaste29
New member
I have a 2012 jk that was totaled with 4k miles (http://www.daveysjeeps.com/repairables/R105420.html). I had the axle, frame, and body straightened since they were all bent. I installed a RK 2.5" lift and about 10k miles later I was going down the highway and hit a bump going about 60 and my first experience with death wobble occurred. This was about two months ago. I replaced the drag link with an RK and MOOG ends, the driver side hub assembly since it seemed to have play (the new one also seems to be making a slight noise now). I put a different SS on since my stock was blow and I was ordering stuff anyways. The front end was aligned and now roughly 2k miles later (today) I received death wobble again. The front end was checked 2k ago when everything originally happened and the ball joint appeared okay. The jeep currently only has 28k miles. Can someone please help me? I am a college kid and don't have the money for all these parts and it seems like every 2-5k miles something else needs replaced. I included the link to the original pictures if that will help any. I have yet to replace the tie rod or entire axle in case it somehow re-bent itself (it was straightened by a guy who does drag cars and usually builds rends from scratch).
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When was the last time you balanced your tires? Also, they "straightened" your axle?
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toxicwaste29
New member
Ya. the housing was bent not allowing the axle to rotate freely on the passenger side so the end of it was cut from the housing separating them then it was straightened and re welded. I am still on my stock tires and rims so I haven't balanced any of them. It only happens when hitting a bump going about 60. If I go 60 or more and hit no bumps it drives and tracks light a perfectly normal car/truck.
I would suggest getting the tires balanced before spending money on parts that may not even need to be replaced. Its quick, cheap and easy. Also, you should retorque the front end again as it can and will loosen up with each episode of DW.
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toxicwaste29
New member
After waiting for a track bar bushing to arrive from RK since I thought that was the issue, it finally arrived and I noticed thread grooves starting to get cut into the original metal bushing sleeve. I replaced both track bar ends with 9-16" grade 8 hardware; this was all on Monday. Ill also add I only unbolted the track bar and rebolted it; I didn't mess with any of the settings with it (jam nuts etc.). Tuesday I drove it to work fine. Today (Wednesday) I was on the highway and I heard a chime and looked at the dash; the abs, brake, and tc light came on and the mph gauge dropped down then shot right back up to my speed. The tc light remained on and the other two went away. About 5 minutes later there was another chime and the same abs, brake, and tc light came on. During this one the mph gauge also dropped down then back up right away (the background of the instrument cluster was flickering also which Im assuming is from all the lights being on at one). I finished driving it to work and the tc light is still on. The steering wheel isn't off centered and all I did was replace the original 14mm hardware with 9/16" which seems to have fixed the wobble but now this happened today. This happened in the past before but with only the tc light, the steering wheel wasn't centered at that time and since I have gotten a front end alignment. Any ideas what might be the problem?
toxicwaste29
New member
While hooking it back up I had to have someone get inside and turn the steering wheel to line the hole on the frame side with the track bar hole. Is this not how it should be done? Also I just got in it for lunch and the tc light is off. Could it have just been a freak thing?
No, you would have wanted to do it like that and it would have only been a problem if the steering wheel got clocked. Maybe just a freak thing, hard to say for sure. If you still have lights on, disconnect your batter for 20 mins, reconnect it and see if it goes away.
toxicwaste29
New member
It happened again on the way home. It chimed and the mph gauge went dead even though I was on the highway; the right side of the panel is flickering; and the abs/ tc/ and brake light are on. You can see the mph gauge jumping on its own. Is this a bad clock spring?
[video]http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/rorrerjp/media/VID_20140326_171418_245_zps2760841b.mp4.html[/video]
toxicwaste29
New member
^let me know if you would like it uploaded to youtube instead so that it can be seen in better quality.