Desperate Call for Help

JKDream said:
You have way too much caster for the housing as I alluded to in the first post.
You need to shorten your lower control arms or lengthen the uppers, and sooner than later.
That vibration can take do serious damage to your transfer case to the point of it cracking.
I would really suggest shortening those lowers ASAP before you grenade your driveline.
Click to expand...

^^^^^ yep. Pinion pointing down way too much even for the bare eye to catch.


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JKDream said:
You would be lucky to see 4 degrees of caster on a stock housing and no vibrations with that much lift.
His control arms are WAY too long, you can see in the last photo the joint are hanging on by two or three threads at best.
The reason it just started with the shaft is because the stock shaft does not vibrate due to the CV joint.
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Is it me or do the front lower control arms appear to be swapped (Port & Stbd)? It might be just an optical illusion in the pics (looking on a phone certainly doesn't help) but it appears the radius on the arms is pointing outward instead of inward.
 
USMMA11NC said:
Is it me or do the front lower control arms appear to be swapped (Port & Stbd)? It might be just an optical illusion in the pics (looking on a phone certainly doesn't help) but it appears the radius on the arms is pointing outward instead of inward.
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They look backwards, which isn't too much of an issue if his tires aren't rubbing.
That's really the only reason for the bend anyhow.
I'm more concerned about the two threads those joints are sitting on, and his transfer case :crazyeyes:
 
Agreed with others, this shit is not good. These lines should be close to parallel. Get that fixed asap.

jeep.JPG
 
JKbrick said:
Can those lines be parallel on the front? I thought the front was set by caster not driveshaft angle? Just wondering not questioning you


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Click to expand...
You should be running as much caster within reason and not developing driveline vibrations. On aftermarket drive shafts, you typically need two degrees of pinion minimum before you get vibrations. That sets your caster at 4 degrees. You can always try for more, but on the stock housing it is unlikely.

His pinion is at a horrid downwards angle. If it was set at 2-3 degrees he would be in line with the driveshaft and solve the issue he's having.
 
JKbrick said:
Can those lines be parallel on the front? I thought the front was set by caster not driveshaft angle? Just wondering not questioning you


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Click to expand...

You are correct that front is set by caster, however an aftermarket shaft really desires a perfect parallel angle. This is near impossible to achieve, so the factory caster of 4.2 sets it the best possible angle to minimize driveline angles but still gives you good steering. On a lifted jk it isn't really possible to obtain a perfect pinion angle unless the axle is aftermarket. However, based on the picture above, that angle is really fucked up.
 
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WJCO said:
You are correct that front is set by caster, however an aftermarket shaft really desires a perfect parallel angle. This is near possible to achieve, so the factory caster of 4.2 sets it the best possible angle to minimize driveline angles but still gives you good steering. On a lifted jk it isn't really possible to obtain a perfect pinion angle unless the axle is aftermarket. However, based on the picture above, that angle is really fucked up.
Click to expand...

I agree that angle is really bad, looks like it would bind easily


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JKDream said:
You should be running as much caster within reason and not developing driveline vibrations. On aftermarket drive shafts, you typically need two degrees of pinion minimum before you get vibrations. That sets your caster at 4 degrees. You can always try for more, but on the stock housing it is unlikely.

His pinion is at a horrid downwards angle. If it was set at 2-3 degrees he would be in line with the driveshaft and solve the issue he's having.
Click to expand...

Is 2 of pinion the same as 88 on the front of the housing?


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JKDream said:
Yes or 92 depending on the angle of the ground.

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Click to expand...
They're relative to each other by seperation. So for example the stock housing has six degrees of seperation. That means at 6 degrees pinion you have 0 degrees of caster. If you have a measurement of 92 or 88 you have four degrees of caster.

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I worked on it a bit today before it started to rain on me. I was able to get it to 90 degrees which is about 8 degrees better than what it was. I only adjusted the bottom CAs; pulled them way in (about 18 turns on each). You can see I needed to use ratchet straps to pull it in. I do have upper adjustable CAs but honestly they are old and I don't think they will unscrew very easily. Maybe I need to get some new ones anyhow. Does Currie make any? All of my other ones are Currie rebuildable.

I'm going to work on it more tomorrow night and see if I can get a few more turns out of it. But it does look a lot better.

USMMA11NC said:
Is it me or do the front lower control arms appear to be swapped (Port & Stbd)? It might be just an optical illusion in the pics (looking on a phone certainly doesn't help) but it appears the radius on the arms is pointing outward instead of inward.
Click to expand...

No it's not you. They are pointed outward instead of inward and I need to fix that. :blush:

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WJCO said:
Looks a lot better.
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x2.

I would still bring those lowers in more until you're 2 degrees from 90, but that is a significant improvement.
I'm surprised your transfer case didn't grenade to be honest.
 
JKDream said:
x2.

I would still bring those lowers in more until you're 2 degrees from 90, but that is a significant improvement.
I'm surprised your transfer case didn't grenade to be honest.
Click to expand...
I didn't drive it far or too much with the front drive shaft on. I didn't like that sound so I pulled it and left it until I knew more about it.

I will try and get those lowers pulled in more. I'm going to need bigger ratchetting straps as a comealong.

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zeddjb said:
I didn't drive it far or too much with the front drive shaft on. I didn't like that sound so I pulled it and left it until I knew more about it.

I will try and get those lowers pulled in more. I'm going to need bigger ratchetting straps as a comealong.

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Click to expand...
get a smaller Jack and place it under the pumpkin before the pinion, use that Jack to help rotate it up while you adjust the control arms, makes it easier than the straps
I can't attach the pic from my phone
 
Fixed!!

I was able to get a positive 86 degrees. I think I could have gone more if I spent more time on it. Putting a jack under the pinion housing helped out huge; made things a lot easier for those last few degrees. I still had to use straps but not as much. I did flip the CAs around also since I had them off anyways; so they are now on correctly. The "clackety" sound is gone and got up to 75 MPH with no vibration at all. I may take it in to have an alignment done or at least have them put it on the rack and see if anything is off or not. When I test drove it, steering felt a bit different; not good not bad just different. It was also windy and I couldn't tell if it was wandering or not but I don't think it is. I plan on taking a trip up north about a thousand or so miles there and back so I guess I'll know for sure if there are issues.

I wanted to thank everyone who contributed to this post and provided their input. It was all very valuable to me and I couldn't have done it without you. Now onto the next one ;)
 
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