Drag Link won't unthread

I would put some heat to the pitman arm with a propane torch and then use the dual sledge hammer method.
Gonna do it tomorrow. Cut the top of the bolt off thinking if I got a little more space to put some downward pressure on I could smash it out of there but its still in there really good. The hackzall I bought isn't strong enough to cut through the bottom of the drag link bolt so I am going to stop for the day and get a torch tomorrow.
 
I would put some heat to the pitman arm with a propane torch and then use the dual sledge hammer method.
This. First heat. Then cut. Have a plan, then a back up plan. Air you cut the top off it’s still not just gonna “fall” out you’re gonna need to get on top of it and use a punch or something to drive down which likely means removing arm. Etc etc. start simple move up in destruction.
 
This. First heat. Then cut. Have a plan, then a back up plan. Air you cut the top off it’s still not just gonna “fall” out you’re gonna need to get on top of it and use a punch or something to drive down which likely means removing arm. Etc etc. start simple move up in destruction.
I put a slightly smaller size nut over the cut bolt and tightened a c clamp to put some pressure on the bolt while I went back at it with the sledge and pickle fork. Still just as stuck. I am gonna go for the heat tomorrow.
 
Lol. I won't lie man, I almost went there yesterday. Will go there if fire doesn't work.
Just try to keep the heat concentrated on the end of the pitman that interfaces with the DL end you’re trying to remove. You want to avoid having a bunch of heat transfer to the sector shaft and potentially damage seals in your steering box.
 
Just try to keep the heat concentrated on the end of the pitman that interfaces with the DL end you’re trying to remove. You want to avoid having a bunch of heat transfer to the sector shaft and potentially damage seals in your steering box.
This shouldnt be an issue with how thick of steel the pitman arm is and the relatively low temp of a propane torch, but yeah keep it pointed where you need it not up towards the box. Also if heat alone wont get it to budge, heat the shit out of it and then spray pb at the bolt/hole repeat if necessary. The oil cools it a bit and causes the metal to shrink as well as suck "down" the oil. Good trick for rusty/ stuck bolts.
 
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I have had luck with using a long bar, 5 or 6 foot, prying down on the drag link as close as you can to the pitman arm. At the same time, hit the pitman arm from the side, while it is up against the limit of movement. I mean hit it, hard, with a Big F'ing Hammer. Have a friend hold the tension on the bar, if you can find a friend.
Heating the end of the pitman arm prior to prying and beating helps.

Some may take a lot of attitude adjustment, but I've never met one more stubborn than me. They will come apart.

Oh, cutting the bolt won't necessarily help, but will remove leverage you can use to help pry from.

In your picture with the pickle fork, I don't see any flattened spots on the outside off the pitman arm, which there will be if you are hitting it hard enough with a BFH
 
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Remove pitman arm and drag link together, place in bench vise and slam that fucking thing with sledge hammer.
Yeah I might just do this. I am working in a pretty tight space so I can't get a really good swing in with a sledge. I have the 4lb mallet but still don't feel like I am getting enough momentum. So I am going to try the heat and beat method but if it doesn't work I am just going to take the arm off and work on it outside with a BFH.
 
Yeah I might just do this. I am working in a pretty tight space so I can't get a really good swing in with a sledge. I have the 4lb mallet but still don't feel like I am getting enough momentum. So I am going to try the heat and beat method but if it doesn't work I am just going to take the arm off and work on it outside with a BFH.
When you say "Mallet" it makes me think you are using a wooden, rubber, or leather headed hammer or a rubber deadblow hammer, is that the case? If so that will not produce the force (vibration) needed to loosen the tapered drag link end.
 
Would a gear puller work?
The only thing with the gear puller is the space around the pitman arm doesn't really leave me anywhere to crank it down. I could definitely, and I will, use one if I have to remove the whole arm.
 
When you say "Mallet" it makes me think you are using a wooden, rubber, or leather headed hammer or a rubber deadblow hammer, is that the case? If so that will not produce the force (vibration) needed to loosen the tapered drag link end.
No it is a 4lb mini sledge hammer. Steel head, the shortness of it is why I say mallet but it is a steel sledge hammer.
 
The only thing with the gear puller is the space around the pitman arm doesn't really leave me anywhere to crank it down. I could definitely, and I will, use one if I have to remove the whole arm.
Moog and a few other companies make TRE pullers that look like they were designed to get above a pitman arm. Unlike traditional pullers they have a fork on one side and a anvil on the other that pushes down on the threaded end of the joint. Maybe O'Reilly's has one available as a loaner tool.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...2109/moog-tie-rod-end-tool/moo0/t40007?pos=32
 
Steel will expand something like 0.07% for every 100* F. Get the pitman arm hot before the link end gets too hot and it will only take one love tap with the BFG. Wrap the threads with a wet paper towel if they start to get to hot to touch.
 
Moog and a few other companies make TRE pullers that look like they were designed to get above a pitman arm. Unlike traditional pullers they have a fork on one side and a anvil on the other that pushes down on the threaded end of the joint. Maybe O'Reilly's has one available as a loaner tool.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...2109/moog-tie-rod-end-tool/moo0/t40007?pos=32
Apply pressure with this tool, then apply heat with torch, then hit with sledge. Should pop right off. Although you probably have it off by now.
 
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